Summit Racing didn't ask if my truck was 4x4 and they fit fine, but it may be different for a dentside than my bricknose.

 

I don't think the 70s trucks have the same issue has the 80s ones as far as driveshaft and frame clearance issues.

 

Did you end up going with the Hedman's? I am debating the same issue those Sanderson shorties sure look tempting.

 

I have been debating headers too. I used to have a 79 4x4 with a 400 I souped up and stock manafolds with glass pack mufflers. That truck ran like a RAPED APE and sounded great. I realy don't think low rpm engines like this benefit that much from headers. I have a 2 wheel 1967 F350 with a 466 that I put headers on 20 years ago. That truck runs good and sounds ok ( rv tow cam vs one step over stock lift on the 400 4x4 ). The headers on the 4x2 67 model make changing the starter a PAIN. Its not really that bad but with the stock exhaust manafolds you can change a starter ( and eventually you will ) in 30 minutes. with the header on the 67 you have to take the engine mounts loose, take off the fan or shroud , jack up the motor and disconnect the headers at the head and the collector. 30 minute job becomes 4 hours of cussin if you don't know what your in for. I'll bet on a 3 or 4 thousand rpm truck motor header make almost no difference in power. I say spend the money on something else or get shorty headers. And yea like the guys say you can find good ones used or buy cheap ones. Mine on 67 are cheap. I paid $80 new for them at super shops 20 years ago and they never leaked until I tried changing the starter a couple years back and tightened the head bolts before the collector. Now the passenger side leaks when cold. Headers look cool but a sandblasted manafold hooked to a good set of bent exhaust is just fine for a 4x4 and no pain when the starter quits. I suspect the heat from the header will kill a starter faster than manafolds too.

 

Yeah, I have been researching alot and am starting to agree. When we were kids and messing around it was always headers/manifold/carb as soon as possible and then internals. But the more I think about it any slight gain is probably not worth the trouble. When I thiought I had a cracked manifold I was really considering it since a stock manifold for the 460 was like $100 !

 

There is a guy selling a set of those hi dollar ceramic coated shortie headers on Knocksville TN craigslist for $250. That might be option. If you put them on a motor with a little over stock cam ( don't over do it unless truck us wide open throttle mud bogger ) and put on glasss packs the engine will sound killer. I want to go with big mufflers and manfold on my new play 4x4 so I can go down in the local woods un noticed. I might have my muffler and pipe bender guy fab up straight pipes with stacks out bed behind cab to uncork when I wanna show off affer a couple brews at the red neck events.

 

Screw the glass packs they sound like garbage. Leave the pipes alone after the headers.

 

Does anyone know if the sanderson headers will fit a 78 4x4 with the 351M?

 

I hear everyone recommend them (Sanderson) so I would guess yes. As far as headers or exhaust manifolds, headers yes.

But hell NO on the inside the frame exit ones, fenderwell exit are the way to go IMO.

I had a 78 F150 4x4 with inside the frame exit installed by the PO what a PITA to finish the exhaust, hit the front d/s ect.... And if I have to jack up a motor install a header, I would say NO to that brand.

I put Hedeman fenderwell exits on my 4x4 79 F250 was really easy IMO. As far as the broken bolt issue....there are a ton of how to repair without pulling the head.

Use the advanced search and look up header install or broken exhaust manifold bolt threads. I have a very long detailed thread about it, just can't find it right now.

Here is a short version.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...n+exhaust+bolt

Found it..also found the actual lock washer name. "Nord-Lock" Fastenall carries them.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...2010+460+heard