Engine removal/ issues (Pics)
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Engine removal/ issues (Pics)
Well let me start up by saying that these forums are awesome! I've been following them for a wile now and they have helped me a lot!
* Where I live I can't remove the engine without the manager/owner saying *****, so I've decided to remove it when no one is awake (2-3 am)
. What's the best way without making too much noise? I'll be removing the front clip, and transmission as well.
^ For less weight I'll also remove the heads.
*I tried removing the heads with a cheap $8 breaker bar from harbor freight, the damn bolts are on too tight! What do you guys recommend?
*THE BAD: when I was taking the engine apart I noticed that one of the bolts that hold down the water pump had 2 washers, as I was getting the bolt loose I noticed that the engine block has a broken piece
[IMG]ttp://imageshack.us/a/img809/3708/2j1n.jpg[/IMG]
^ After cleaning and inspecting it it doesn't go into the engine block itself, it seems it only covered the bolts "thread" so I decided to stick it back on with JBWeld
^ How long will it last? After It dried it feels rock solid, I'm wondering if it will last or if I should buy a new block?
* Where I live I can't remove the engine without the manager/owner saying *****, so I've decided to remove it when no one is awake (2-3 am)
. What's the best way without making too much noise? I'll be removing the front clip, and transmission as well.^ For less weight I'll also remove the heads.
*I tried removing the heads with a cheap $8 breaker bar from harbor freight, the damn bolts are on too tight! What do you guys recommend?
*THE BAD: when I was taking the engine apart I noticed that one of the bolts that hold down the water pump had 2 washers, as I was getting the bolt loose I noticed that the engine block has a broken piece
[IMG]ttp://imageshack.us/a/img809/3708/2j1n.jpg[/IMG]
^ After cleaning and inspecting it it doesn't go into the engine block itself, it seems it only covered the bolts "thread" so I decided to stick it back on with JBWeld
^ How long will it last? After It dried it feels rock solid, I'm wondering if it will last or if I should buy a new block?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 3
good day welcome to fte is that a 460 engine? are you removing it to rebuild it or what
after 30 or so years the only way to remove the heads are with a good impact wrench I have hammered on those for up to an hour to get the bolts loose the piece you show that is broken may or may not affect the sealing of the water pump plate but if you want to change out the timeing chain and gear set [highly recommended] you will now have to remove the jbs weld as the plate and the block are now joined also if that is a 460 do not try to remove the exaust manifold bolts with a wrench or socket by hand YOU WILL TWIST THEM OFF!! and now you will be drilling and tapping holes you need an air chisel to loosen those bolts regards joe
after 30 or so years the only way to remove the heads are with a good impact wrench I have hammered on those for up to an hour to get the bolts loose the piece you show that is broken may or may not affect the sealing of the water pump plate but if you want to change out the timeing chain and gear set [highly recommended] you will now have to remove the jbs weld as the plate and the block are now joined also if that is a 460 do not try to remove the exaust manifold bolts with a wrench or socket by hand YOU WILL TWIST THEM OFF!! and now you will be drilling and tapping holes you need an air chisel to loosen those bolts regards joe
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Gotta be stealthy about it eh? The truck needs to look driveable yet not have an engine or trans, right?
Here's what I would do...
Strategy:
Good luck!
Here's what I would do...
Strategy:
- Preparation is key. Gotta have everything staged and ready to go for the pull.
- Remove large but manageable assemblies and tear it down further inside your hour home or on a patio.
- You're gonna need help... he/she/they better be on time and wrench worthy.
- Spray all rusty hardware a few days before starting the teardown.
- Install the engine sling and lay it on the manifold.
- Prep the truck such the only thing to do is to remove the motor mount to perch nuts and the transmission mount.
- Identify which bolts need to be removed and loosen/undo them so they are are really easy to remove.
- Remove as many nuts n bolts as possible. Don't forget to bag and tag! You think you will remember but you will not. DO IT.
- Drain and remove the radiator, coolant hoses, battery.
- Disconnect and mark all wiring attached to the engine and trans. Lay/tie back all wiring harnesses so they don't get snagged.
- Remove the driveshaft and cap the tailshaft.
Good luck!
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 654
Likes: 2
From: The Lone Star State
I'd add to HIO's list
Take plenty of close up digital pictures of everything, brackets, hoses, harnesses, connections, etc. It's cheap, easy and only take a little bit of time and can be very helpful when you are putting it back together.
I pulled my heads too before yanking the motor and used a nice HD breaker bar and a 3' cheater pipe. Make sure you use 6 point impact sockets too because you don't want it to break. If you have neither you can do the old school BFH method.
Not sure on your motor but on my 429 the cylinder head bolts on the inner cylinders had lots of gunk on them and even after they were un-torqued they were a booger to remove. Look like exhaust fumes had filled the space around the holes and threads with carbon, soot and nasty stinky stuff. Luckily no engine fasteners broke!
Take plenty of close up digital pictures of everything, brackets, hoses, harnesses, connections, etc. It's cheap, easy and only take a little bit of time and can be very helpful when you are putting it back together.
I pulled my heads too before yanking the motor and used a nice HD breaker bar and a 3' cheater pipe. Make sure you use 6 point impact sockets too because you don't want it to break. If you have neither you can do the old school BFH method.
Not sure on your motor but on my 429 the cylinder head bolts on the inner cylinders had lots of gunk on them and even after they were un-torqued they were a booger to remove. Look like exhaust fumes had filled the space around the holes and threads with carbon, soot and nasty stinky stuff. Luckily no engine fasteners broke!
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 836
Likes: 2
From: Shreveport, LA
I stopped progress for a week and pushed it onto the street the next day, then backed into the carport for a few days, then back how it was and work resumed.
That sure was a fun time...
Anyhow, OP, while youre pulling things and cleaning them up, 3M bristle disc will be one of your best friends for removing gaskets, road grime and just about everything else that elbow grease used to be used for.
Almost makes work obsolete.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,287
Likes: 17
From: San Carlos, CA
I will admit I am a Snap-On Tool junkie and this is what I used.
Use any good breaker bar (Not Harbor Freight) Sears is a good place if you don't have a Snap-On budget. Use a good 6 point socket (As previously mentioned) and work the bolt loose. I used my impact socket on the end of my breaker bar and on one tough bolt I used the handle from my floor jack for leverage. Be sure to post your progress and good luck!
Use any good breaker bar (Not Harbor Freight) Sears is a good place if you don't have a Snap-On budget. Use a good 6 point socket (As previously mentioned) and work the bolt loose. I used my impact socket on the end of my breaker bar and on one tough bolt I used the handle from my floor jack for leverage. Be sure to post your progress and good luck!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help guys, yes it's a 460, I'm removing the engine since I'll be doing a basic engine rebuilt, it doesn't matter if the truck looks drivable since they already know it doesn't run. Since I started removing bolts, brackets, hoses etc. I have been taking notes, pics and storing the bolts in sandwich bags and marking them so I could know we're they go, sadly I have no idea how the vacuum hoses go since they were all disconnected, but I'll figure that one out when I start putting everything together. Here making noise isn't an issue as well, since I'm allowed to do bodywork as long as I keep the are clean. I guess I'll give it another try with a new breaker bar, I do own 2 snap on breaker bars but I don't feel like using them since they were a graduation gift from UTI 
.
Also I've already removed most of the A/C components, since for now I won't be using them, but how do you remove the large black A/C unit located on the passengers side? I would like to have a clean looking engine compartment.
I'll start posting more pics, when I have the engine out and start making more progress
.Also I've already removed most of the A/C components, since for now I won't be using them, but how do you remove the large black A/C unit located on the passengers side? I would like to have a clean looking engine compartment.
I'll start posting more pics, when I have the engine out and start making more progress
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 836
Likes: 2
From: Shreveport, LA
It's held in by a few nuts on the cab side of the firewall. Good luck getting a clean firewall, though...there's a MASSIVE hole behind that thing, you'll have to really do some cleanup after removing it.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
If you only plan on doing it once, nothing wrong with using the cheapest option. Find the longest affordable breaker bar, and if nothing else throw a pipe on the end to get a better mechanical advantage. Make sure you soak those bolts with plenty of PB blaster to try to avoid breaking the bolt. Just go slow and pay attention.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
As far as using the tools you can afford, there is nothing wrong with a harbor freight breaker bar. If you don't believe me, look at what is all involved in a breaker bar.
If you only plan on doing it once, nothing wrong with using the cheapest option. Find the longest affordable breaker bar, and if nothing else throw a pipe on the end to get a better mechanical advantage. Make sure you soak those bolts with plenty of PB blaster to try to avoid breaking the bolt. Just go slow and pay attention.
If you only plan on doing it once, nothing wrong with using the cheapest option. Find the longest affordable breaker bar, and if nothing else throw a pipe on the end to get a better mechanical advantage. Make sure you soak those bolts with plenty of PB blaster to try to avoid breaking the bolt. Just go slow and pay attention.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
They ran a special a few months ago they ran an online special for two kingsize cans.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 183
Likes: 1
Anyway, you can remove the AC box if you want and patch it with sheet metal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
will400429
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
8
Jun 3, 2016 05:52 AM
Jonrarick
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Apr 11, 2013 03:26 PM