1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Stuck Head on V8

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Old 04-14-2005, 08:57 AM
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Stuck Head on V8

Does anyone have a neat trick or simple method for removing a head that has been on since 1948? Engine is still in truck ( 48 F-5 ) , could really use some help here guys.
Thanks
Ed
 
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Old 04-14-2005, 09:54 AM
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Have you removed the bolts? Use an air wrench - it distributes the torque and results in fewer broken bolts.
Use lots of penetrating oil. Then use more. PB Blaster is my favorite.
Pry bars after the bolts are out. Can use good putty knife/scraper to drive between the head and the block - drive into the gasket space.
Or if the engine will turn over, loosen the bolts a bit and crank the engine over - compression will pop it loose.
Tip: Remove the 3 bolts on the running board/splash shield, the cowl and frame bolt and the two radiator bolts and lift the whole front end off. Makes it much easier to get to the engine.
 
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Old 04-14-2005, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mtflat
Have you removed the bolts? Use an air wrench - it distributes the torque and results in fewer broken bolts.
Use lots of penetrating oil. Then use more. PB Blaster is my favorite.
Pry bars after the bolts are out. Can use good putty knife/scraper to drive between the head and the block - drive into the gasket space.
Or if the engine will turn over, loosen the bolts a bit and crank the engine over - compression will pop it loose.
Tip: Remove the 3 bolts on the running board/splash shield, the cowl and frame bolt and the two radiator bolts and lift the whole front end off. Makes it much easier to get to the engine.
Follow mtflat's advice. I wish I had it when I was removing the head on my V8 flattie. I didn't lube and used a breaker bar to remove the bolts. As it turns out, when you don't lube the bolts and use a breaker bar, you would break off the bolts at various lengths. I tried using an air wrench but it didn't work for me. Probably because I didn't lube and I didn't stay on the bolt long enough.

Here's the result in pictures.




I used to have a fairly normal running truck. Now I have a non-running truck and this bozo move is going to cost me lots of time and a good amount of money to fix.

BTW, also pulling your front clip is a good idea. You'd get better leverage and position to remove the heads.

Ilya
 
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Old 04-14-2005, 11:18 AM
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51PpanelMan,

I feel for you. When you start the process of removing the broken bolts I would take the advice and pull the front clip, they come off pretty easy. Then take your time, be patient, and before trying to drill the broken bolts make sure you file them down flat and center punch the center of them...it's always a bummer when you drill them off center and the drill bit or easy-out gets into the block.
I know that my stupidity has cost me quite a bit over the years. And it seems to me that the price of stupidity is like the price of gas....it just keeps going up and up and up.....

Good luck to you

Bobby
 
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Old 04-14-2005, 02:16 PM
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51PpanelMan, This may be one of those few cases to pull the bolck and have a machine shop do the work. I know it cost more.. but one slip up could cost the whole block... And while its there.. have it decked and rebored.. You in the long run will be much happier with the end resoltes...
 
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Old 04-14-2005, 03:25 PM
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I was actually planning on selling the engine when it was running. I still plan on selling it, but now in as-is condition. I actually look at the positive outcome from all of this. It made me start actively looking for the stock 215 motor that belongs in the truck. Now that I've found one, I'll try and rebuild it. Once it rebuilt and done, the swap will be completed.

I'll let the next person take care of repairs to the existing flattie block.

Ilya
 
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Old 04-14-2005, 10:05 PM
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Ed, unbolt the cylinder head, then crank the starter.
 




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