Engine Removal Guide?
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Posting Guru
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Engine Removal Guide?
Is there such a thing as a guide that I can get that would let me know the steps to removing an engine? I am not sure if there is an order to removing things that would be best or if there any 'hidden' bolts or tricks for getting at things. That's all I was looking for.
Going to be doing this to a 351W, not sure what tranny it will be connected to or what it will be coming out of (92-96 F series or Bronco I am guessing). Going to the local pick-your-part place.
Thanks
Going to be doing this to a 351W, not sure what tranny it will be connected to or what it will be coming out of (92-96 F series or Bronco I am guessing). Going to the local pick-your-part place.
Thanks
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Here's a quick guide from memory.
Remove all cables and hoses from the upper intake.
Disconnect the EGR line at the valve and the support bracket on the passenger side.
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
Remove the upper and lay it asside.
Now disconnect all remaining wiring from sensors, injectors, and grounds and lay it asside. Don't forget the big ground from the battery to the block on the front pass side.
Remove the fan shrowd and fan.
Disconnect the exhaust near the manifolds with a sawsall if allowed, hacksaw if not.
Remove the 4 bolts from the engine mounts at the block.
Disconnect and remove the starter.
Remove the 2 bolts from the trans flywheel cover and then the 4 nuts attaching the flexplate and torque converter.
Remove 6 bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor.
Attach a hoist and take the weight on the motor off the mounts, Grab the motor and shake/wiggle it side to side while somebody else pulls the hoist forward, this will dislodge it from the dowels in the trans bellhousing. once it's free twist it in the engine bay and hoist it out.
Remove all cables and hoses from the upper intake.
Disconnect the EGR line at the valve and the support bracket on the passenger side.
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
Remove the upper and lay it asside.
Now disconnect all remaining wiring from sensors, injectors, and grounds and lay it asside. Don't forget the big ground from the battery to the block on the front pass side.
Remove the fan shrowd and fan.
Disconnect the exhaust near the manifolds with a sawsall if allowed, hacksaw if not.
Remove the 4 bolts from the engine mounts at the block.
Disconnect and remove the starter.
Remove the 2 bolts from the trans flywheel cover and then the 4 nuts attaching the flexplate and torque converter.
Remove 6 bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor.
Attach a hoist and take the weight on the motor off the mounts, Grab the motor and shake/wiggle it side to side while somebody else pulls the hoist forward, this will dislodge it from the dowels in the trans bellhousing. once it's free twist it in the engine bay and hoist it out.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 2
Here's a quick guide from memory.
Remove all cables and hoses from the upper intake.
Disconnect the EGR line at the valve and the support bracket on the passenger side.
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
Remove the upper and lay it asside.
Now disconnect all remaining wiring from sensors, injectors, and grounds and lay it asside. Don't forget the big ground from the battery to the block on the front pass side.
Remove the fan shrowd and fan.
Disconnect the exhaust near the manifolds with a sawsall if allowed, hacksaw if not.
Remove the 4 bolts from the engine mounts at the block.
Disconnect and remove the starter.
Remove the 2 bolts from the trans flywheel cover and then the 4 nuts attaching the flexplate and torque converter.
Remove 6 bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor.
Attach a hoist and take the weight on the motor off the mounts, Grab the motor and shake/wiggle it side to side while somebody else pulls the hoist forward, this will dislodge it from the dowels in the trans bellhousing. once it's free twist it in the engine bay and hoist it out.
Remove all cables and hoses from the upper intake.
Disconnect the EGR line at the valve and the support bracket on the passenger side.
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
Remove the upper and lay it asside.
Now disconnect all remaining wiring from sensors, injectors, and grounds and lay it asside. Don't forget the big ground from the battery to the block on the front pass side.
Remove the fan shrowd and fan.
Disconnect the exhaust near the manifolds with a sawsall if allowed, hacksaw if not.
Remove the 4 bolts from the engine mounts at the block.
Disconnect and remove the starter.
Remove the 2 bolts from the trans flywheel cover and then the 4 nuts attaching the flexplate and torque converter.
Remove 6 bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor.
Attach a hoist and take the weight on the motor off the mounts, Grab the motor and shake/wiggle it side to side while somebody else pulls the hoist forward, this will dislodge it from the dowels in the trans bellhousing. once it's free twist it in the engine bay and hoist it out.
When you say:
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
Remove the upper and lay it asside.
What is 'the upper' that you are referring to? Are you talking about the intake manifold?
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,092
Likes: 0
From: Olympia
Just a few comments to make here. Looks good otherwise.
Also, draining all the oil and coolant is recommended. Hope it helps.
Originally Posted by Conanski
Disconnect the EGR line at the valve and the support bracket on the passenger side.
The EGR is all on the engine itself, correct? Intake to Manifold. Why remove it?
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
The upper to the lower...? What are you talking about?
Remove 6 bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor.
I believe there are eight bolts. Two on bottom, four on sides, two on top. Starter must also be removed.
Remove the 2 bolts from the trans flywheel cover and then the 4 nuts attaching the flexplate and torque converter.
To get to all of the torque converter bolts you must turn the engine over, I suggest a socket on the pulley.
Remove the fan shrowd and fan.
Removing the radiator free's up a lot of room. I suggest doing this when removing shroud/fan.
Disconnect the exhaust near the manifolds with a sawsall if allowed, hacksaw if not.
Don't cut your exhuast?! UNBOLT IT. Unbolt the pipe from the manifold.
Remove the 4 bolts from the engine mounts at the block.
Hop under the truck and they will be easy to see.
Attach a hoist and take the weight on the motor off the mounts, Grab the motor and shake/wiggle it side to side while somebody else pulls the hoist forward, this will dislodge it from the dowels in the trans bellhousing. once it's free twist it in the engine bay and hoist it out.
Pulling it ahead a little should allow it to come free of the tranny easily. And twisting the engine in the bay isn't needed...
The EGR is all on the engine itself, correct? Intake to Manifold. Why remove it?
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
The upper to the lower...? What are you talking about?
Remove 6 bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor.
I believe there are eight bolts. Two on bottom, four on sides, two on top. Starter must also be removed.
Remove the 2 bolts from the trans flywheel cover and then the 4 nuts attaching the flexplate and torque converter.
To get to all of the torque converter bolts you must turn the engine over, I suggest a socket on the pulley.
Remove the fan shrowd and fan.
Removing the radiator free's up a lot of room. I suggest doing this when removing shroud/fan.
Disconnect the exhaust near the manifolds with a sawsall if allowed, hacksaw if not.
Don't cut your exhuast?! UNBOLT IT. Unbolt the pipe from the manifold.
Remove the 4 bolts from the engine mounts at the block.
Hop under the truck and they will be easy to see.
Attach a hoist and take the weight on the motor off the mounts, Grab the motor and shake/wiggle it side to side while somebody else pulls the hoist forward, this will dislodge it from the dowels in the trans bellhousing. once it's free twist it in the engine bay and hoist it out.
Pulling it ahead a little should allow it to come free of the tranny easily. And twisting the engine in the bay isn't needed...
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
the upper Conanski is refering to is the plenum or the big aluminum piece that says "Ford Fuel Injection" or "Ford EFI." Sometimes reads 5.8 Ford Fuel Injection on newer trucks. on the top of the engine (commonly refered to as the "upper manifold"). on the 351w there 6 bolts. 3 are in plane sight on the dirvers side of the plenum and the other three are 2 inches to the left kinda under the plenum. there are holes in the plenum at the right spots to get to theses.
In any case i just pulled my first motor and I have a great suggestion for you.
Find some card board, use a utility knife to cut "X's" int he cardboard in the pattern of the bolts as they are found on the engine. Label each piece of cardboard with the motor piece they came from (ie: valve cover, water pump, heads, exhaust manifold... etc.) this will keep you organized and won't take to long to organized "groups" of bolts... I did this and found it EXTREAMLY helpful during rebuild. Also Duct Tape and a Sharpie is the best idea to label the wires as they come off (I used masking tape and it faded and fell off after a while...)
In any case i just pulled my first motor and I have a great suggestion for you.
Find some card board, use a utility knife to cut "X's" int he cardboard in the pattern of the bolts as they are found on the engine. Label each piece of cardboard with the motor piece they came from (ie: valve cover, water pump, heads, exhaust manifold... etc.) this will keep you organized and won't take to long to organized "groups" of bolts... I did this and found it EXTREAMLY helpful during rebuild. Also Duct Tape and a Sharpie is the best idea to label the wires as they come off (I used masking tape and it faded and fell off after a while...)
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,092
Likes: 0
From: Olympia
I suggest masking tape and a sharpie to label any wires on the truck that you will need to attach. Easiest if you label both ends the same way.
Put one on the distributor plug and write "distributor" then on the wires do the same and write "distributor", so there's no guesswork installing them.
The first few motor swaps I did, I just kind of piles bolts around, sometimes I put them on cardboard and labeled them. (Its all good till your foot kicks the cardboard and you lose all the bolts!!) I think the BEST solution for bolts when you do an engine removal is to invest in a sharpie (permanent marker) and a box of zip lock bags. You can write down on the bag what is inside, and there's plenty of bags for everything.
If you have any questions, just ask.
Put one on the distributor plug and write "distributor" then on the wires do the same and write "distributor", so there's no guesswork installing them.
The first few motor swaps I did, I just kind of piles bolts around, sometimes I put them on cardboard and labeled them. (Its all good till your foot kicks the cardboard and you lose all the bolts!!) I think the BEST solution for bolts when you do an engine removal is to invest in a sharpie (permanent marker) and a box of zip lock bags. You can write down on the bag what is inside, and there's plenty of bags for everything.
If you have any questions, just ask.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 7
From: Des Moines, Iowa
I was more suggesting that you cut the "X" in the card board so you can push the bolts into the card board... keeps them together and in the same pattern they came off in. But to each his own...
I also use a sharpie and perminent marker but I use a numbering system. IE: I use 2 "1's" to mark where a wire goes together. the next one 2 "2's" and on and on... this way by the time i get done I know i have XYZ number of wires to reconnect and can use a check off or count down to get them all hooked back up...
I also use a sharpie and perminent marker but I use a numbering system. IE: I use 2 "1's" to mark where a wire goes together. the next one 2 "2's" and on and on... this way by the time i get done I know i have XYZ number of wires to reconnect and can use a check off or count down to get them all hooked back up...
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Prozon, please learn how to use the quote feature. It's impossible to quote your replies and address them the way you have done it.
There are 6 bolts holding the trans to the motor.
Cutting the exhaust piping behind the manifold is fine if the truck he's swapping into already has an exhaust. The point is to try and pull the motor out before the yard closes and stubborn, rusty exhaust bolts are a major slowdown.
If he doesn't know that you have to crank the motor over to get to all the torque converter bolts then he probably shouldn't be pulling an engine.
There are 6 bolts holding the trans to the motor.
Cutting the exhaust piping behind the manifold is fine if the truck he's swapping into already has an exhaust. The point is to try and pull the motor out before the yard closes and stubborn, rusty exhaust bolts are a major slowdown.
If he doesn't know that you have to crank the motor over to get to all the torque converter bolts then he probably shouldn't be pulling an engine.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,092
Likes: 0
From: Olympia
I am well aware how to use the quote feature. I had computer issues and it took me long enough to post the reply as it is. If you really wanted to quote me you could have copied and pasted it and just type "[Quote", which is what I had to do for most of that reply anyways.
However, as he is asking how to remove the engine, I assume he has never done it, so I thought I would give him all the advise he might use. Its not like he can have too much information about how to pull an engine. Sound good?
And as for the transmission, I guess I was mistaken. I was thinking the engine was mated to a C6 transmission, in that case, a C6 would have eight bolts.
With the exhaust, well it could go either way, you might actually need the exhaust so cutting it may not be a good idea. I agree that it may be easier and faster if you have a complete exhaust and do not need any of it, but he stated nothing to make me believe he had an exhaust system, so naturally I assumed.
However, as he is asking how to remove the engine, I assume he has never done it, so I thought I would give him all the advise he might use. Its not like he can have too much information about how to pull an engine. Sound good?
And as for the transmission, I guess I was mistaken. I was thinking the engine was mated to a C6 transmission, in that case, a C6 would have eight bolts.
With the exhaust, well it could go either way, you might actually need the exhaust so cutting it may not be a good idea. I agree that it may be easier and faster if you have a complete exhaust and do not need any of it, but he stated nothing to make me believe he had an exhaust system, so naturally I assumed.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
It doesn't look like it to me.
Ok, fair enough. However, be mindful of the guidelines, especially when calling another user a dick.
That is just nonsense. All 351w's have the same bellhousing pattern - six bolts - regardless of what transmission is behind the motor.
Its not like he can have TOO MUCH INFORMATION about how to pull an engine, so don't be a dick when i'm just trying to be helpful. SOUND GOOD?
And as for the transmission, I guess I was mistaken. I was thinking the engine was mated to a C6 transmission, in that case, a C6 would have eight bolts.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Originally Posted by Conanski
Disconnect the EGR line at the valve and the support bracket on the passenger side.
The EGR is all on the engine itself, correct? Intake to Manifold. Why remove it?
No.. it connects to the passenger exhaust manifold on the 5.8 and needs to come off to get the upper intake off.
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
The upper to the lower...? What are you talking about?
I'm talking about the intake, have you never seen an EFI truck motor? The upper has to come off so the wiring can be disconnected. This also makes it easier to get at the bellhousing bolts and smog tubes at the back of the motor.
Remove 6 bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor.
I believe there are eight bolts. Two on bottom, four on sides, two on top. Starter must also be removed.
No only six on the SBF bellhousing, the bottom two are just in the TC cover which is bolted directly to the trans.
Remove the 2 bolts from the trans flywheel cover and then the 4 nuts attaching the flexplate and torque converter.
To get to all of the torque converter bolts you must turn the engine over, I suggest a socket on the pulley.
Yes that's right.
Remove the fan shrowd and fan.
Removing the radiator free's up a lot of room. I suggest doing this when removing shroud/fan.
Yep, the rad may already be gone on a scrapyard vehicle though.
Disconnect the exhaust near the manifolds with a sawsall if allowed, hacksaw if not.
Don't cut your exhuast?! UNBOLT IT. Unbolt the pipe from the manifold.
Not on the scrapyard motor unless you want to keep the Y-pipe, these bolts won't likely come off easily so don't waste your time.
Disconnect the EGR line at the valve and the support bracket on the passenger side.
The EGR is all on the engine itself, correct? Intake to Manifold. Why remove it?
No.. it connects to the passenger exhaust manifold on the 5.8 and needs to come off to get the upper intake off.
Remove the 6 bolts attaching the upper to the lower including the hidden Torx bolt at the center pass side.
The upper to the lower...? What are you talking about?
I'm talking about the intake, have you never seen an EFI truck motor? The upper has to come off so the wiring can be disconnected. This also makes it easier to get at the bellhousing bolts and smog tubes at the back of the motor.
Remove 6 bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor.
I believe there are eight bolts. Two on bottom, four on sides, two on top. Starter must also be removed.
No only six on the SBF bellhousing, the bottom two are just in the TC cover which is bolted directly to the trans.
Remove the 2 bolts from the trans flywheel cover and then the 4 nuts attaching the flexplate and torque converter.
To get to all of the torque converter bolts you must turn the engine over, I suggest a socket on the pulley.
Yes that's right.
Remove the fan shrowd and fan.
Removing the radiator free's up a lot of room. I suggest doing this when removing shroud/fan.
Yep, the rad may already be gone on a scrapyard vehicle though.
Disconnect the exhaust near the manifolds with a sawsall if allowed, hacksaw if not.
Don't cut your exhuast?! UNBOLT IT. Unbolt the pipe from the manifold.
Not on the scrapyard motor unless you want to keep the Y-pipe, these bolts won't likely come off easily so don't waste your time.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,092
Likes: 0
From: Olympia
I was thinking of a 460 removal in my head. Sorry for that.
On a 460, none of the intake has to come off, and the EGR can stay connected aswell because the manifold and the intake can stay intact.
As for a 460 and a C6, there are eight bolts. Which is why I had said it.
Sorry for having my mindset on a 460. Now I feel stupid lol.
Anyways i've got a good rule of thumb for removing any engine;
Just keep unplugging stuff until nothing is attached to the truck.
On a 460, none of the intake has to come off, and the EGR can stay connected aswell because the manifold and the intake can stay intact.
As for a 460 and a C6, there are eight bolts. Which is why I had said it.
Sorry for having my mindset on a 460. Now I feel stupid lol.
Anyways i've got a good rule of thumb for removing any engine;
Just keep unplugging stuff until nothing is attached to the truck.