I'm trying to research how to get better mpg on my '03 7.3, and I once again came upon this debate/dilemma. I've read and read and read till I'm thoroughly confused on what exactly to do about these...the sensor and valve. Cap or not/one or both, buy a bypass and install, clean the sensor and tube again?

Will I even see any improvements? Last time I cleaned the sensor and tube I couldn't tell of any improvement in mpg or performance. I have even read that by deleting the sensor or valve that it actually hurt their mpg and performance.

Is there any true knowledge on this and is it even beneficial to mess with? What is the CORRECT method of deleting them if it will be beneficial?

 

I hear you on the confusion, but I think the evidence leans in favor of keeping the EBPS and keeping that tube clean. If you can get access to AE and verify the sensor reading and MAP are within a volt or so, that is a good thing. Mine was off by 3 volts before I changed it. My MPGs have never been great (13-14), but I've tried to get the truck to 100 percent anyway.

deleting the valve is more of a preference for how you use the truck. I dont think it's a factor for MPG. I deleted it and went with a hi-flow outlet and non-EPBV turbo pedistal to eliminate a source of oil leak (my actuator was leaking), and to eliminate the possible restriction from the valve in the exhaust stream, helping EGTs a tiny bit. I may eventually put it back in to use with a decel tune as an exhaust brake. I live in Seattle and so it does not get cold enough here to use the valve as it was intended, as a warm-up assist.

 

I did mine over a year ago and have not noticed any MPG change. Was just easier to gut it when I rebuilt my turbo to avoid future oil leaks. In TX so so cold issues here.

 

If it were me I would delete the valve. But LEAVE THE SENSOR. You cant (or shouldnt) delete it. The people who write tunes (and the factory tune) use the EPBS to determine fueling.

 

If I were to delete the valve, what is the proper/easiest way?

 

Proper way is to buy a non EBPV flange and install that. Its also easiest, but more expensive.

 

That ain't what I was looking for.

I'm searching for the procedure but haven't found it yet. If anyone can post up a link to the thread where it has been deleted?

 

Here are the two parts:

Riffraff Diesel: Garrett GTP38 High Flow Outlet

Riffraff Diesel: Garrett Non-EBPV/ Blank Pedestal 99.5-03

The other option is welding. I have seen these two items bundled on ebay for $100 before.

 

personally i have left mine alone, it doesnt leak, and i just take a blowgun and snake to the tube once in a while. i live in northern illinois, and a warm truck gets better mileage than a cold one, so personally i feel having better mpgs from a faster warm up out ways the "loss" in mpg from the "drag" in the exhaust (if it is really enough to affect anything).

 

I have read some have welded the holes closed cause they didn't want to buy a delete pedestal. not sure all the details on it, I considered it, but dont weld and own a van now so I can't even delete mine. so I spend the same $100 that would have been for a pedestal for the rebuilt kit.

side thought, cleaning the tube is easy, but the sensor can be tricky to not ruin the diapram inside.

I just bought a new sensor after I pulled my tube. RUSTED beyond cleaning. so I got a new tube and sensor.