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HELP!!! No start issue.

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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 06:20 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bismic
You can't effectively test batteries with a multimeter.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by atomicglock
The multimeter will only test for voltage. It won't LOAD test the battery. A battery can have (or show) sufficient voltage but when you apply a load, such as a starter motor, the battery will "fall flat on it's face". A parts store will load test the battery for free.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 07:44 AM
  #18  
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What is the temperature were you have your truck?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Poor'it in'her
What is the temperature were you have your truck?
40's today. Past couple days 60's.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 12:08 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
The multimeter will only test for voltage. It won't LOAD test the battery. A battery can have (or show) sufficient voltage but when you apply a load, such as a starter motor, the battery will "fall flat on it's face". A parts store will load test the battery for free.
That means I gotta pull the damn things. Oh well. Guess their gonna have to replaced anyways.

Disconnected them this morning and put'em on the charger just for S&G's. Gauge on the charger says 12.4 and won't budge from there.

Might take me a while to replace them. Kinda tapped out right at the moment. When I do get new ones, I'll post an update. Thanks everyone, for your help.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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I referenced the multimeter strictly for making sure your alternator was charging the batteries.

Don't put off new batteries for too long or you WILL be replacing/repairing the FICM.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 02:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jswartz84
Don't put off new batteries for too long or you WILL be replacing/repairing the FICM.
Please explain. What happens if I don't replace the batts. right off?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #23  
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Low voltage = higher amperage to FICM. Higher amperage = heat on solder joints on electronic boards. Heat kills electronics and Solder joints.

A new FICM is around $1000 from Ford.
A rebuild is around $250 and up

A bad FICM can take out injectors at $2000 a set.

So putting off batteries is not recommended.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 03:10 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jswartz84
Low voltage = higher amperage to FICM. Higher amperage = heat on solder joints on electronic boards. Heat kills electronics and Solder joints.

A new FICM is around $1000 from Ford.
A rebuild is around $250 and up

A bad FICM can take out injectors at $2000 a set.

So putting off batteries is not recommended.
Ok, but, I've pulled the batts. completely out of the truck. No volts = no amps = no heat, so I should be good. Right?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 03:25 PM
  #25  
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You could leave them in but just don't start it. The ignition pulls in the FICM relay which sends voltage to the FICM.
So if you don't start it or try to start it then FICM will be fine.
Pulling the batteries is fine too.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 03:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by atomicglock

If you have Regular Batterys and NOT GEL STYLE BATTERYS you can Hydro test them

The Battery Hydrometer is like $5-$8 Bucks at any auto parts store

Its VERY VERY Accurite of a Test since you test each cell WHILE IN the Truck But Cables Disconnected

IMO Its every bit as Good as a Bench test at the store where The "Windsheild Wiper BOYS" hook it up to Test

Sorrey Bill that Probably Stuck with me I LIKE IT LOL
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 03:38 PM
  #27  
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You likely Burned something Up

Going to need to Trace the Circuits you hooked up

Your Batterys might be Bad IDK Theres Other Damage!!beside batterys IMO

You need a Working DVM!!

Truck still nostart
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 03:46 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jswartz84
You could leave them in but just don't start it. The ignition pulls in the FICM relay which sends voltage to the FICM.
So if you don't start it or try to start it then FICM will be fine.
Pulling the batteries is fine too.
Ok, thanks. That's a load off my mind.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
You likely Burned something Up

Going to need to Trace the Circuits you hooked up

Your Batterys might be Bad IDK Theres Other Damage!!beside batterys IMO

You need a Working DVM!!

Truck still nostart
So what exactly is a DVM. I assumed it meant digital volt meter which was just another name for a milti-meter.

If I "burned something up" it goes to a mechanic. I ain't crawling around under a dashboard trying to trace wires.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 03:54 PM
  #30  
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Digital Volt Meter
Voltmeter
Multimeter

Pretty much all the same thing if they have multiple functions.
Most will test voltage, amperage, and resistance.
 
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