Long story but here's my question. Can you pull the slide pins on the calipers from underneath the car with out taking the wheel and the the caliper off? I'm trying to just lube them.

 

yes, turn the wheels left or right for easier access.

 

Thanks you. It looks like you could

 

Make sure you use brake caliper grease. Pull them all the way out, grease and reinsert them. Don't be spraying stuff up in there.

 

Their is a seal on the caliper where the pin goes in so you will have to pull the caliper and lube the pins with caliper pin grease

 

hmmm, I just did this on my truck. (With the wheels off) If I remember correctly, the pins can be greased with the caliper on the truck unless I'm having a total brain fart.

 

I'll give it a shot. I just finished gravity flushing the brake fluid. Nasty stuff. It looked like used motor oil. Used about 1 1/2q. Hope that this helps. The problem has been that my brake pedal sticks at the top. Once it gets past the stick they work fine. It's worse at lower rpms. Sometimes when pulling into a parking spot it's doesn't want to stop and then all of a sudden, full brakes. Makes my wife real happy. Lol. Then today the pedal would not return all the way to the top. It would stop about an inch from the top. I could feel the brakes holding. Maybe bad fluid???? Ive replaced the hydroboost , power steering pump and now bleed the brake lines. If this doesn't work, then the master cylinder? Oh I'll also grease those pins too. Any other suggestions ? Where's a good place to get a master cylinder?

Thanks

 

I think the OP asked with the wheels on? Correct me if wrong.

 

Yes but if I said I had just done it, and it wasn't possible then I would be a liar. So what I was saying is that after doing it with the wheel off, I'm pretty sure I could have done it with the wheel on. Hope that makes more sense.

 

If your pedal is sticking at lower ENGINE RPM's but is fine at higher RPM's, my guess would be you have either a master cylinder or hydroboost issue.

 

Sticks all the time, it's just worse at lower rpms. I've replaced the hydroboost.

 

Just replaced the master cylinder. Didn't help. Now what?....

 

I posted this in your other thread too...

From the 2006 Shop Manual. I hate throwing parts at my truck, so I invested in the Manuals. I use them all the time. This should help you at least get closer to finding it and stop throwing parts at it. I know how frustrating that can be.

Component Tests
WARNING: Use of other than the approved DOT 3 brake fluid will cause permanent damage to the brake components and will render the brakes inoperative. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.
NOTE: If a vehicle with a locked wheel must be moved, loosen the bleeder screw to relieve pressure.
Always check the brake fluid level and, if necessary, fill with DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid.

Accumulator — Hydro-Boost®

1. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel to the left and right stops 1 time.
2. Stop the engine.
3. Apply the brakes. The accumulator in the Hydro-Boost® power brake booster should retain enough pressure for at least 2 power assisted brake operations.
   • If no power assist is felt, install a new Hydro-Boost® power brake booster, refer to Section 206-07 .
   • If power assist is felt, the accumulator is operating correctly at this time.

Brake Booster — Vacuum Boost

1. Disconnect the check valve from the brake booster.
2. Apply the parking brake, start the engine and place the transmission in NEUTRAL.
3. Verify that manifold vacuum is available at the check valve with the engine at idle speed and the transmission in NEUTRAL.
   • If manifold vacuum is available, stop the engine, connect the check valve and continue with Step 5.
   • If manifold vacuum is not available, continue with Step 4.
4. Disconnect the check valve from the vacuum hose and verify that manifold vacuum is available at the hose with the engine at idle speed and the transmission in NEUTRAL.
   • If manifold vacuum is available, stop the engine, install a new check valve and continue with Step 5.
   • If manifold vacuum is not available, stop the engine, connect the vacuum hose to the check valve and refer to Section 303-00 to diagnose the no vacuum condition.
5. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all vacuum from the system.
6. Apply the brake pedal and hold it in the applied position. Start the engine and verify that the brake pedal moves downward after the engine starts.
   • If the brake pedal moves, the brake booster is operating correctly.
   • If the brake pedal does not move, install a new brake booster. Refer to Section 206-07 .
7. Operate the engine a minimum of 10 seconds at fast idle. Stop the engine, and let the vehicle stand for 10 minutes. Then apply the brake pedal with approximately 89 N (20 lb) of force. The brake pedal feel should be the same as that noted with the engine operating. If the brake pedal feels hard (no power assist), install a new brake booster check valve and retest. If the brake pedal feels spongy, bleed the hydraulic system to remove air. Refer to Brake System Bleeding in this section.

Check Valve — Vacuum Booster Only
The function of the power brake booster check valve is to allow manifold vacuum to enter the power brake booster and prevent the escape of vacuum in case manifold vacuum is lost during sustained full throttle operation.
To test the function of the power brake booster check valve:

• Start and run the engine for at least 10 seconds.
• Operate the brake pedal to check for power assist.
• Disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the power brake booster. Do not remove the power brake booster check valve from the power brake booster.
• There should be enough vacuum retained in the power brake booster for at least one more power-assisted brake operation.
• Install a new power brake booster check valve if it fails the above test.

Brake Master Cylinder

1. Disconnect the brake lines at the brake master cylinder.
2. Plug the outlet ports of the brake master cylinder.
3. Apply the brakes. If brake pedal height cannot be maintained, the brake master cylinder has an internal leak and a new master cylinder must be installed.

Compensator Port Check
The purpose of the compensator ports in the brake master cylinder is to supply any additional brake fluid required by the system due to brake pad wear and to allow brake fluid returning from the brake lines to the brake master cylinder to enter the brake master cylinder reservoir.
The returning brake fluid will cause a slight turbulence in the brake master cylinder reservoir. Turbulence seen in the brake master cylinder reservoir upon release of the brake pedal is normal and shows that the compensating ports are not plugged.

 

I think the hydroboost maybe bad again. I did that test and the test at autozone.com, and it feels like there is no assist. Off to autozon to return the hydroboost. Thanks

 

Update..... After much thought, wondered if I got a bad rebuild. I do remember the brake pedal working fine for a few days after replacing the hydroboost the first time. Since the first time, I have flushed the brake fluid and like I said, it was nasty. So went back to autozone and got another one. Installed in 1 3/4 hours. Getting good. Brake pedal feels normal, I hope for good this time. Will nasty fluid cause a hydroboost to go bad in less than a week or did I get a bad rebuilt? Will follow up in a week .