I've been searching this forum for weeks, and I have some ideas, but I'd like to hear what you guys think. First, some background. I had an '05 6.0 - hpop went bad around 96K, Ford fixed that and put in a new EGR valve ("while they were in there") under warranty. Other than that, never any problem for the 100K I owned it (50K to 150K) with nothing other than careful maintenance. Then I found this '06 crew cab with 50K I had to have. I've been religious about maintenance on this one, too - but I haven't done any of the preventive recommendations I read about here. The Ford dealer I bought it from put a new turbo on it right before I bought it.

Went good for about a year and a half and 35K miles, then last spring it got to where it absolutely would not start cold unless it was plugged in. Ran rough for a bit when it first started but smoothed out pretty quick. Even then, it was absolutely gutless 'til it had warmed up for a few minutes. Once it's warm, everything's great. I called my mechanic (never had him work on my diesels, but he's done lots of work on gassers for me, and he does lots of work on diesels) and he's pretty sure it needs injectors (he recommends a full set). He did suggest that changing the oil might help, and it did. (it was due - I run 15/40 Rotella T and change every 5K). All this was about mid-March, and he said keep your oil fresh and you shouldn't have any problems when it warms up, we can do the work whenever you're ready. And he was right about that, it was great 'til the weather started cooling off. I also started running Power Service in the fuel, which seems to make a noticeable difference.

Now that it's getting cooler, it's back to running rough after cold starts, and the low power 'til it warms up thing is much more noticeable. I haven't had to plug it in yet - it still starts easily, even at temps that it wouldn't last spring. And now I have some money, and I'm ready to fix it, but I want to fix it right. I'm just not sure injectors (or injectors alone) are going to take care of it. This guy will do pretty much whatever I ask him to, but I need to know what to ask for. He did say we'd want to do some updates, but we haven't discussed that yet. I would like to do some things to improve reliability and performance, and I know that may go along with fixing my problems (EGR?), but I don't want to get ahead of myself.

A couple more things - I have occasionally smelled coolant when I'm towing heavy on a hot day. Have never been able to see anywhere it's leaked out (or any other leaks, matter of fact) and coolant levels stay steady. Also, I put in 2 new batteries in January (NAPA Gold) and a new alternator (oem) about a month ago.

I'm not absolutely stuck on this mechanic btw, but he's been good to me for years, he's particular about his work, and he stands behind it. There are a couple of diesel mechanics around, but they're higher priced, and don't seem to have quite as good a reputation.

I know this went on forever, but like I said, I want to do this right the first time. I know you all can help start me in the right direction.

 

There could be a number of things going on with your truck. Not sure if you have the ability to check with any monitoring device, but what first comes to mind is the FICM. That would be very simple to rule out, and could be very easily causing cold start/lack of power issue.

Here's a link to the testing procedure in the tech folder:
http://https://www.ford-trucks.com/f...procedure.html

I had a similar issue a few years ago and this guide helped me through it. I think that was the first "repair" I did on my truck.

By religious on maintenance, you are hopefully meaning stock filters?

I see you are using Power Service additive, that is good to help the injectors along and add some cetane. I've used that before and Diesel Kleen since I had my truck. Just recently I switched to Stanadyne and I have noticed a difference in cold starts. I'm not saying it is a miracle cure, and every truck is different, but I really do think it has helped.

As for the coolant smell, if your level is staying steady I wouldn't worry about it. It does seem that you are hinting at an egr system delete/upgrade or something along those lines. I say go with what you feel comfortable with, all options are going to be better than stock.

Back to the injectors, fuel pressure needs to be determined. Either you or your mechanic can easily check it with a test gauge connected to the test port of the fuel bowl. If the pressure is below 50psi, damage can occur to your injectors. Ford came out with an updated fuel pressure regulator spring for this reason. Most trucks run around 60-65psi at idle with the updated spring.

Me personally, I like to get my hands dirty. Its hard for me to give advice on a mechanic. I'd say anyone skilled at working on things would do, but they need to have the brains to figure out whats going on with your truck too. I've spent a lot of time "getting to know" my truck. For a mechanic who works on these things for a living, its a piece of cake. For a mechanic who fixes other cars and trucks for a living they still have to get past that learning curve I would think.

 

start with checking FICM voltage. all the info you will need is in the tech. folder

 

Your coolant smell could be an over filling of the system.
The new high is 1/2" below the low mark. If you have it
filled to the top mark. That can be the problem if you don't
have a newer degas bottle. The new bottle has a new line if I recall right.
The other thing to check is the cap. A tired cap will vent.
Have the cap tested.

Sean

 

You might want to try an oil additive for stiction - such as the Archoil product or Rev X

 

Okay, that FICM voltage test looks doable (link doesn't work, btw, but I found it in the tech folder). I'll give that a try, this afternoon if I get time. From the description, it does sound like a good place to start.

Yes, I'm running all Ford filters.

As far as the degas bottle goes, I think it's the old one - it has stickers on it indicating a lower level than the molded indicator, and that's what I go by. I really didn't think it was an issue (my '05 did the same), but thought I'd throw that out there in case it was a bigger deal than I thought. Testing the cap sounds like a good idea though.

I can try to check the fuel pressure. Will have to find a test gauge. I guess the updated spring is the "blue spring mod" everyone talks about here?

An additive for stiction sounds like it'd be worth a try, too. I'm about due an oil change anyway.

I don't mind doing some stuff myself, but I don't have a garage or shop to work in, and just have basic hand tools. Probably more than that, I lack experience and confidence, but I know there's lots of good info here. Maybe I can work myself up to some of the bigger stuff. I know I have more confidence in what I learn here than in any of the mechanics I talk to, as far as 6.0's go anyway.

Thank you all for the replies, I'll get the FICM checked and let you know what I find.

 

Sorry I'm slow- I finally did check yesterday and the FICM voltage was good. I found a diesel mechanic that I feel pretty good about. I took it in this morning and he checked it out and said it was showing low output from cylinders 1 and 4, which went away when the truck warmed up. He said it showed no other codes, and he saw no other issues.

He said he could change out the 2 injectors, said that should make it start easier and run better when cold. I asked if he thought we should change out the whole set - he said that was up to me... Not sure what I think about that. I believe he said he uses Bosch injectors at around $320 each. The other mechanic uses NAPA at around $220, but this guy's labor is less because both came up with around $3000 for a set installed. Actually the other mechanic said $3000 - $3500, but he did mention "doing some updates while we're in there"...

I can swing the full set right now, that's not always easy to do. But if I don't really need 'em, is it worth doing? And whether I do 2 or 8, what (if anything) else would you recommend doing that would be easier "while we're in there"?

 

Why not try an oil additive ........... ??

 

What is your FICM voltage?

If it really needs 2 injectors, I'd put 2 new Ford injectors in it instead of Bosch or Napa. Tell the shop you will supply the parts, they supply the labor.

Here ya go

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...CTION%20NOZZLE

 

If you had your own gauge that would help

Did you check ficm Cold???

Maybe you could clean the Spool valves in the injectors??

 

15/40 and temps under 30 are no bueno with the 6.0 btw especially if the PCM/FICM is still running a pre-induction heating strategy.

Josh

 

Maybe a Blue Spring will help the good injectors last

I would look into some other things like these guys mention instead of throwing 8 injectors at it

 

Yes, I tested the FICM cold. It was running 48 with the key on, dropped to 44 cranking. I probably do need to get gauges.

Like I said, I'm not positive he said Bosch - I understood him to say it was original equipment, but then I thought he mentioned that it was made by someone other than Ford. I'll clarify that before I make a move.

bismic, I thought about that. Is that supposed to be a one time thing, or will it need to be added every time I change the oil? I can try that first - I haven't committed to anything yet. I just don't want to get out somewhere and not be able to get it started. But I do believe the diesel kleen has helped noticeably - it's starting now at temps it wouldn't last spring. So if the oil additive does some good too... Can't hurt to try.

We don't see a whole lot of cold weather here, and haven't been below 30 yet this fall. But that's not to say that we won't have some through the winter, or that I wouldn't consider running a different oil. What oil do you all run?

Cleaning the spools is prob'ly a good idea. I don't really have the time to tear into it - not enough hours of daylight and no place to get inside to work at night.

Yes, I wasn't really seeing putting 8 new injectors in now, just wondered if I was missing something. Sometimes I think the mechanic that wanted to put in the full set can be a little guilty of "throwing parts at a problem", that's why I was a little leery.

I've been thinking the blue spring would be a good idea, too.

 

Anything below 45 volts is considered a failed FICM

5/40 is a fairly universal recommendation here. Rotella T5 10/30 is a nice compromise.

Josh

 

That FICM is GOING Down Your getting right at the Cutoff

Hows your Batterys and Alternator???


I would Email www.FICMREPAIR.com tell him what you got and what to do

Its Time to send it in though before injector replacement IMO MUST HAVE a Good Injector Controller (FICM) before you can say injectors are Bad