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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Front Lift questions

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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 09:27 AM
  #1  
Shane Baker's Avatar
Shane Baker
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Front Lift questions

My son's 83' F250,4x4, Does anyone know how much of a lift we can do on the front TBI without doing drop brackets and pitman arm? Thank You.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 02:12 PM
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I think 2" without a pitman. Might be 3". This should fit a 33 easy with a snug fit to 35s. Personally if i wanted 35s i would go with a 5" system. A system would include pitman arm, brackets, shocks, maybe brake line extensions (if not you should get them). Basically everything you need. I would spend the extra 200 for a spring system instead of a block for the rear end.

Only other thing you would have to have is tires and wheel spacers. 35s on stock wheels will likely rub the frame.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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2" is the max without using the center drop-down TTB bracket. Anymore than 2" and you will not be able to get the camber alignment within specs (with the largest available aftermarket alignment bushings).
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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You don't need a lift for 33" tires. I m running 285/75/16 with no problems, I barely rubbed with my 36/12.5/16.5 also, wasnt the best ride and couldn't full lock turn(hit leaf spring)

Look into a shackle flip and drop brackets for the front. That's my next plan. 4" for 160 in the back and I haven't priced drop brackets yet but ill probably weld em myself.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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Yea, he already clears 33" but he is going to 35's. We bought a Tuff Country re-arch add a leaf lift for the fronts weak springs, it says it will lift it 2 1/2 inches. So i was curious if we could go any more without needing the drop brackets.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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You will have to buy special bushings for the upper balljoints and then get it re-aligned and cross your fingers and hope they can get it in. The bushings are about $60 a pair, and then add the labor to put them in and align it, you are looking at about a $150 alignment job. The alignment machine will tell the tech which bushings they need to install.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 08:40 AM
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Look into OFDs zero rates. They allowed me to maintain the factory ride quality (or lack of) while leveling the truck out.

BTW that 1" specification is not accurate on any TTB axle

Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design
 
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 07:22 PM
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Like was state above. anything over 2" necessitates the TTB drop brackets
 
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 02:39 PM
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Not sure if I should start a new thread on this one, but it seems basically on topic. I recently acquired 3" lift components that I installed on my 85. The kit included the drop brackets for the radius arms and I beams, coil springs, and pitman arm. I put more leafs in the back instead of blocks. Thing is, when I set the truck down after the lift the front camber is WAY out. I roughly measured it and it's on the order of +5 degrees (tires look like a V). I then measured the lift I got out of it and it is basically 3.5" -- so in the ballpark. The rear height is about that order. Any ideas of what went wrong? The springs that came out were old. Looking online it looks like aftermarket camber bushings correct +2.75 to -2.75 max. So that would only work if the bushings I have in there are set all the way to one extreme.... then I'll get close. Anyone run into this or should I start messing with the bushings? How hard is it to adjust the bushings?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 05:07 PM
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Have you tried driving it?
Mine looks like that after a rotation or brake job then drive it over a bump or two and she's good
 
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 05:15 PM
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Yes, I would move it around, and stop after moving forward on level ground and see what it looks like. If you still have a problem, you need drop brackets that are lower, or springs with less lift.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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Afraid you would say that. I drove it around a bit tonight, a little more than just the up and down the driveway I did before. It looks a little better, but still not right. I'll take a better look tomorrow.

thanks much for the suggestions.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 02:06 PM
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I'm going to try CC822 springs and see if those work. If they do then I'll post a new topic describing what I have in there as it might be useful for others cause it doesn't seem like the springs that came with the lift will work.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by c2z4s9
I'm going to try CC822 springs and see if those work. If they do then I'll post a new topic describing what I have in there as it might be useful for others cause it doesn't seem like the springs that came with the lift will work.
Wait a minute. From your first post I thought this may have been a lift that you or a previous owner cobbled together from different sources. If this is a official kit bought from a aftermarket supplier, I first would call them, and then i think I would drive it for a couple of months before doing anything else.

I don't know if that would be possible, I don't know how bad it is. But I do know ALL brand new springs do settle after a couple of months. They had a coil spring break on a old Dodge ram where I work, and after they put new springs in it it looked ridiculous. But it's been several months since the work was done, and I noticed the other day it has settled quit a bit since they put them in.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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Na if I understand it correctly it's a rough country 3" lift (I guess they don't make it anymore). It was actually installed on a 95 F150 and my friend upgraded and gave it to me. Truly though the distance between the bolts in the drop brackets are 2.5", so I'm not quite sure why it was labeled as 3". Anyway, after all was installed the wheels are +5 degrees camber on both sides. way, way out. I don't quite get it. Mysterious eh?

Hmmm... so the springs settle? I thought that took years and years?
 
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