Bought 2006 F250 6.0L w/bad HP oil pump
#1
Bought 2006 F250 6.0L w/bad HP oil pump
I purchased a 2006 F250 XLT Crew Cab w/FX4 package with the 6.0L diesel engine in it and 186K miles. I bought it sight unseen other than pictures on ebay and having it shipped in. Should be here tomorrow. All they said is the injector pump was bad. I'm assuming that they mean the high pressure oil pump after reading on here. I ordered the factory repair manual set (vol 1, vol 2, and wiring diagram books) and they just came in today. They said it would not even start and that the injector pump was shot. Hoping to diagnosis it and fix and have a good truck fairly reasonable. So far I think I stole it at $5200 and $1400 shipping, but I'll hold that judgment for after receipt and diagnosis!
Currently drive a 2005 F150 SCAB 5.4L 8ft bed with the 7-Lug heavy payload package which I upgraded entire interior to the FX2 pkg (SCAB w/8ft beds only came with XL which was mat floor, hand crank windows, etc) and now have carpet, power windows, locks, remote lock fob, keypad, auto on headlights, power mirrors w/turnsignals, power seat, power rear window, navigation, etc.
Currently drive a 2005 F150 SCAB 5.4L 8ft bed with the 7-Lug heavy payload package which I upgraded entire interior to the FX2 pkg (SCAB w/8ft beds only came with XL which was mat floor, hand crank windows, etc) and now have carpet, power windows, locks, remote lock fob, keypad, auto on headlights, power mirrors w/turnsignals, power seat, power rear window, navigation, etc.
Last edited by setsail4mexico; 10-24-2013 at 10:20 PM. Reason: add
#3
Welcome to FTE
You may want to top the batteries off first. Low voltage will kill a FICM.
Pull the ICP connection when you get it home and see if it starts.
Next I would look into doing an Air test.
Last do you have some type of tool to scan with?
Your also going to want/need a set of digital gauges the Ford dash ones SUCK
as far as keeping you out of trouble. They won't tell you that your getting to
the danger zone till after you past that point.
On the Air test you can make you own tool of there is this one
The thing about the make your own is you have to watch the on time
or risk damage to the valve coil.
Good luck and post back.
Sean
You may want to top the batteries off first. Low voltage will kill a FICM.
Pull the ICP connection when you get it home and see if it starts.
Next I would look into doing an Air test.
Last do you have some type of tool to scan with?
Your also going to want/need a set of digital gauges the Ford dash ones SUCK
as far as keeping you out of trouble. They won't tell you that your getting to
the danger zone till after you past that point.
On the Air test you can make you own tool of there is this one
The thing about the make your own is you have to watch the on time
or risk damage to the valve coil.
Good luck and post back.
Sean
#4
I saw that truck. The bad thing about northern trucks (Michigan) is the rust, and I have to say, pictures are ALWAYS better than the real deal. I bought 2 cars off of ebay and they both were great to me. One of them was sight unseen. I still have both of them. I hope it works out for you! You could get lucky and not need the HPOP which is rare on the 05+ models. Could be STC fitting, standpipes and dummy plugs and you got a steal!
#6
Thank you all for your posts, I really hope it is something minor! Could use good luck for a change! And yes, I won this on ebay and was from Michigan, but is now a Florida Truck! Finally got delivered today! Worst two things not shown in pics (or shown but unclear) were the front chrome bumper is dented in a bit (more than you can tell in original pics) and the driver seat is torn up (will be replacing the entire seat set at some point) but main priority is to get her running. I was pleasantly surprised at amount of rust. I seen some here and there in the pics so figured the undercarriage would be littered with it, however it barely has any at all! Just typical surface... must have had some protection on it or something!
The batteries were both very low and put on a charge, got them to where they both were holding at 12.3 +/- volts and tried to start it and all it did was turn over without so much as a chug... I have an actron obdII scanner from autozone and it had a few codes, system low voltage, fuel injector control module low voltage, an egr code, and a glow plug 1 code.
Really didn't have time to do anything else and probably will not until next weekend. I think I'll start with saying it will do nothing other than turn over w/o starting and pretend I know nothing and start diagnosing from there. I'm new to diesels so this will be an adventure for me! I'm glad I found you guys as I have so many possibilities and ideas from just reading prior threads!!
The batteries were both very low and put on a charge, got them to where they both were holding at 12.3 +/- volts and tried to start it and all it did was turn over without so much as a chug... I have an actron obdII scanner from autozone and it had a few codes, system low voltage, fuel injector control module low voltage, an egr code, and a glow plug 1 code.
Really didn't have time to do anything else and probably will not until next weekend. I think I'll start with saying it will do nothing other than turn over w/o starting and pretend I know nothing and start diagnosing from there. I'm new to diesels so this will be an adventure for me! I'm glad I found you guys as I have so many possibilities and ideas from just reading prior threads!!
#7
Thank you all for your posts, I really hope it is something minor! Could use good luck for a change! And yes, I won this on ebay and was from Michigan, but is now a Florida Truck! Finally got delivered today! Worst two things not shown in pics (or shown but unclear) were the front chrome bumper is dented in a bit (more than you can tell in original pics) and the driver seat is torn up (will be replacing the entire seat set at some point) but main priority is to get her running. I was pleasantly surprised at amount of rust. I seen some here and there in the pics so figured the undercarriage would be littered with it, however it barely has any at all! Just typical surface... must have had some protection on it or something!
The batteries were both very low and put on a charge, got them to where they both were holding at 12.3 +/- volts and tried to start it and all it did was turn over without so much as a chug... I have an actron obdII scanner from autozone and it had a few codes, system low voltage, fuel injector control module low voltage, an egr code, and a glow plug 1 code.
Really didn't have time to do anything else and probably will not until next weekend. I think I'll start with saying it will do nothing other than turn over w/o starting and pretend I know nothing and start diagnosing from there. I'm new to diesels so this will be an adventure for me! I'm glad I found you guys as I have so many possibilities and ideas from just reading prior threads!!
The batteries were both very low and put on a charge, got them to where they both were holding at 12.3 +/- volts and tried to start it and all it did was turn over without so much as a chug... I have an actron obdII scanner from autozone and it had a few codes, system low voltage, fuel injector control module low voltage, an egr code, and a glow plug 1 code.
Really didn't have time to do anything else and probably will not until next weekend. I think I'll start with saying it will do nothing other than turn over w/o starting and pretend I know nothing and start diagnosing from there. I'm new to diesels so this will be an adventure for me! I'm glad I found you guys as I have so many possibilities and ideas from just reading prior threads!!
You may find it a bad FICM and not a bad HPOP system. That would be a deal.
Just ship it off to Ed for a makeover. FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair
Keep us posted and ask questions.
Sean
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#8
Thank you all for your posts, I really hope it is something minor! Could use good luck for a change! And yes, I won this on ebay and was from Michigan, but is now a Florida Truck! Finally got delivered today! Worst two things not shown in pics (or shown but unclear) were the front chrome bumper is dented in a bit (more than you can tell in original pics) and the driver seat is torn up (will be replacing the entire seat set at some point) but main priority is to get her running. I was pleasantly surprised at amount of rust. I seen some here and there in the pics so figured the undercarriage would be littered with it, however it barely has any at all! Just typical surface... must have had some protection on it or something!
The batteries were both very low and put on a charge, got them to where they both were holding at 12.3 +/- volts and tried to start it and all it did was turn over without so much as a chug... I have an actron obdII scanner from autozone and it had a few codes, system low voltage, fuel injector control module low voltage, an egr code, and a glow plug 1 code.
Really didn't have time to do anything else and probably will not until next weekend. I think I'll start with saying it will do nothing other than turn over w/o starting and pretend I know nothing and start diagnosing from there. I'm new to diesels so this will be an adventure for me! I'm glad I found you guys as I have so many possibilities and ideas from just reading prior threads!!
The batteries were both very low and put on a charge, got them to where they both were holding at 12.3 +/- volts and tried to start it and all it did was turn over without so much as a chug... I have an actron obdII scanner from autozone and it had a few codes, system low voltage, fuel injector control module low voltage, an egr code, and a glow plug 1 code.
Really didn't have time to do anything else and probably will not until next weekend. I think I'll start with saying it will do nothing other than turn over w/o starting and pretend I know nothing and start diagnosing from there. I'm new to diesels so this will be an adventure for me! I'm glad I found you guys as I have so many possibilities and ideas from just reading prior threads!!
I have learned a lot from DieselTechRon. I even purchased the Milwaukee battery powered ratchet that he uses in all his videos. He will explain to you all the various ways you can check your truck for a no start. Excellent information here...
Troubleshooting - Part 1
Summary: Covers the Scangauge II, monitor all the vitals to monitor no-start. FICM Sync, FICM Main Voltage, ICP and IPR.
Need to listen for Fuel Pump.
Need to listen first for Injector Clatter when Key On Engine Off. Sound normal? Check FICM Voltage at this same time. Do you have 48 volts during clatter? Does it maintain 48 volts?
FICM Voltage - NEVER drops below 45 Volts while key on, engine off (KOEO) cranking & running. At any point, if it drops below 45 volts, you have FICM failure. More steps needed to be sure.
FICM Sync - Should be 1 while cranking.
ICP at KOEO - Should be 0 to 15 (Should be UNDER Atmospheric Pressure) Exception is 03 or 04 with new style sensors may read 50-60psi Key On Engine Off. ICP while cranking - ICP needs to hit 500 psi just to start and idle. ICP will be approximately 1,000 up to 3,000 psi going down the road depending on load.
IPR - you should see 85% when cranking, NEVER hit 15 or 85% while running. I normally see 35% to 45%.
If you have an IPR and the screen is broken, you can try and find the piece that is inside and clogging the IPR, you can replace the screen without replacing the IPR. If you can't find the piece, you'll likely have to replace the IPR. If you have low ICP, or your IPR hits 85%, it's probably because it's not seating. The IPR is a shutoff valve. You can push it from the screen side with a screwdriver and you should feel the plunger move. If it doesn't move, it's stuck and needs replacing.
Troubleshooting - Part 2
Summary:
Scangauge II will assist in preventing breakdowns. You can monitor FICM Voltage, Injection Pressure, if you have a leak developing. Make sure your IPR never hits 15 or 85% while running. If so, do you have Base Oil Pressure, do you have a leak? If you monitor these along with EOT, VGT, ECT. You can diagnose your own vehicle. FICM must be SYNC, or it will never start either.
If it is an 03, early 04 MY 6.0, and you have no FICM Sync, going with the odds, it's almost always the wire loom. (It still can be the FICM), but the most common short is at the EBP sensor and wire where it drops down to the cam sensor. Other common areas are by the oil filter housing or on the ficm. Check all connections at FICM. If it is intermittent, check the bolt on the upper top corner of the valve cover. If someone replaces it with a stud, the wire loom crosses over this point and rubs... more info in video.
IPR valve is the problem about 20% of the time on all trucks and vans. All years. If you had someone who recently oil cooler or the valve cover off or the injectors, you have the possibility of contamination. Pull the IPR and inspect the screen and clean out/replace the valve.
Summary: If you don't hear it running, check your fuel bowl anyway (by removing the upper fuel filter) If it is full, leave the cap off, put the keys in your pocket and use the starter wire on the passenger side to turn the motor over. (details in video) If the fuel leaks down, you likely have a broken injector tip.
Troubleshooting - Part 3
Compare yours with these:
Normal ICP and IPR values with 15w 40 oil ?
Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
Cold engine high idle (1200 rpm) ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
Warm engine high idle (1200 rpm) ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
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Ron, Cheezit, mchan and some of the others would be begging us to get people away from them if they were invited. I think they know better. lol I just want beer. If beer is there, I'm ok if no one else shows up! I know I ***** (<<< edit that word is **** with a W. ) Ron out a lot around here. I'm sorry, but I think he helps us new guys.
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