!!##$*$!!?! Crank, no start
#1
!!##$*$!!?! Crank, no start
BAH! Lousy damn timing too. Just dropped $3K on a vacay to the Caribbean and now this happens.. .
Long story short, just did the EGR Delete, new oil cooler and STC fitting about 2 months ago. Everything has been running fine and suddenly this out of nowhere. Was out running errands yesterday, made a couple of stops then, crank but no start. Ended up getting towed home last night. .
Getting oil pressure and I'm hearing injector chatter, but not even trying to start. I found the video on troubleshooting with the Scanguage, going to try that tonight and see what I can find out.
Any other suggestions?
Long story short, just did the EGR Delete, new oil cooler and STC fitting about 2 months ago. Everything has been running fine and suddenly this out of nowhere. Was out running errands yesterday, made a couple of stops then, crank but no start. Ended up getting towed home last night. .
Getting oil pressure and I'm hearing injector chatter, but not even trying to start. I found the video on troubleshooting with the Scanguage, going to try that tonight and see what I can find out.
Any other suggestions?
#2
BAH! Lousy damn timing too. Just dropped $3K on a vacay to the Caribbean and now this happens.. .
Long story short, just did the EGR Delete, new oil cooler and STC fitting about 2 months ago. Everything has been running fine and suddenly this out of nowhere. Was out running errands yesterday, made a couple of stops then, crank but no start. Ended up getting towed home last night. .
Getting oil pressure and I'm hearing injector chatter, but not even trying to start. I found the video on troubleshooting with the Scanguage, going to try that tonight and see what I can find out.
Any other suggestions?
Long story short, just did the EGR Delete, new oil cooler and STC fitting about 2 months ago. Everything has been running fine and suddenly this out of nowhere. Was out running errands yesterday, made a couple of stops then, crank but no start. Ended up getting towed home last night. .
Getting oil pressure and I'm hearing injector chatter, but not even trying to start. I found the video on troubleshooting with the Scanguage, going to try that tonight and see what I can find out.
Any other suggestions?
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I have learned a lot from DieselTechRon. I even purchased the Milwaukee battery powered ratchet that he uses in all his videos. He will explain to you all the various ways you can check your truck for a no start. Excellent information here...
Troubleshooting - Part 1
Summary: Covers the Scangauge II, monitor all the vitals to monitor no-start. FICM Sync, FICM Main Voltage, ICP and IPR.
Need to listen for Fuel Pump.
Need to listen first for Injector Clatter when Key On Engine Off. Sound normal? Check FICM Voltage at this same time. Do you have 48 volts during clatter? Does it maintain 48 volts?
FICM Voltage - NEVER drops below 45 Volts while key on, engine off (KOEO) cranking & running. At any point, if it drops below 45 volts, you have FICM failure. More steps needed to be sure.
FICM Sync - Should be 1 while cranking.
ICP at KOEO - Should be 0 to 15 (Should be UNDER Atmospheric Pressure) Exception is 03 or 04 with new style sensors may read 50-60psi Key On Engine Off. ICP while cranking - ICP needs to hit 500 psi just to start and idle. ICP will be approximately 1,000 up to 3,000 psi going down the road depending on load.
IPR - you should see 85% when cranking, NEVER hit 15 or 85% while running. I normally see 35% to 45%.
If you have an IPR and the screen is broken, you can try and find the piece that is inside and clogging the IPR, you can replace the screen without replacing the IPR. If you can't find the piece, you'll likely have to replace the IPR. If you have low ICP, or your IPR hits 85%, it's probably because it's not seating. The IPR is a shutoff valve. You can push it from the screen side with a screwdriver and you should feel the plunger move. If it doesn't move, it's stuck and needs replacing.
Troubleshooting - Part 2
Summary:
Scangauge II will assist in preventing breakdowns. You can monitor FICM Voltage, Injection Pressure, if you have a leak developing. Make sure your IPR never hits 15 or 85% while running. If so, do you have Base Oil Pressure, do you have a leak? If you monitor these along with EOT, VGT, ECT. You can diagnose your own vehicle. FICM must be SYNC, or it will never start either.
If it is an 03, early 04 MY 6.0, and you have no FICM Sync, going with the odds, it's almost always the wire loom. (It still can be the FICM), but the most common short is at the EBP sensor and wire where it drops down to the cam sensor. Other common areas are by the oil filter housing or on the ficm. Check all connections at FICM. If it is intermittent, check the bolt on the upper top corner of the valve cover. If someone replaces it with a stud, the wire loom crosses over this point and rubs... more info in video.
IPR valve is the problem about 20% of the time on all trucks and vans. All years. If you had someone who recently oil cooler or the valve cover off or the injectors, you have the possibility of contamination. Pull the IPR and inspect the screen and clean out/replace the valve.
Summary: If you don't hear it running, check your fuel bowl anyway (by removing the upper fuel filter) If it is full, leave the cap off, put the keys in your pocket and use the starter wire on the passenger side to turn the motor over. (details in video) If the fuel leaks down, you likely have a broken injector tip.
Troubleshooting - Part 3
Compare yours with these:
Normal ICP and IPR values with 15w 40 oil ?
Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
Troubleshooting - Part 1
Summary: Covers the Scangauge II, monitor all the vitals to monitor no-start. FICM Sync, FICM Main Voltage, ICP and IPR.
Need to listen for Fuel Pump.
Need to listen first for Injector Clatter when Key On Engine Off. Sound normal? Check FICM Voltage at this same time. Do you have 48 volts during clatter? Does it maintain 48 volts?
FICM Voltage - NEVER drops below 45 Volts while key on, engine off (KOEO) cranking & running. At any point, if it drops below 45 volts, you have FICM failure. More steps needed to be sure.
FICM Sync - Should be 1 while cranking.
ICP at KOEO - Should be 0 to 15 (Should be UNDER Atmospheric Pressure) Exception is 03 or 04 with new style sensors may read 50-60psi Key On Engine Off. ICP while cranking - ICP needs to hit 500 psi just to start and idle. ICP will be approximately 1,000 up to 3,000 psi going down the road depending on load.
IPR - you should see 85% when cranking, NEVER hit 15 or 85% while running. I normally see 35% to 45%.
If you have an IPR and the screen is broken, you can try and find the piece that is inside and clogging the IPR, you can replace the screen without replacing the IPR. If you can't find the piece, you'll likely have to replace the IPR. If you have low ICP, or your IPR hits 85%, it's probably because it's not seating. The IPR is a shutoff valve. You can push it from the screen side with a screwdriver and you should feel the plunger move. If it doesn't move, it's stuck and needs replacing.
Troubleshooting - Part 2
Summary:
Scangauge II will assist in preventing breakdowns. You can monitor FICM Voltage, Injection Pressure, if you have a leak developing. Make sure your IPR never hits 15 or 85% while running. If so, do you have Base Oil Pressure, do you have a leak? If you monitor these along with EOT, VGT, ECT. You can diagnose your own vehicle. FICM must be SYNC, or it will never start either.
If it is an 03, early 04 MY 6.0, and you have no FICM Sync, going with the odds, it's almost always the wire loom. (It still can be the FICM), but the most common short is at the EBP sensor and wire where it drops down to the cam sensor. Other common areas are by the oil filter housing or on the ficm. Check all connections at FICM. If it is intermittent, check the bolt on the upper top corner of the valve cover. If someone replaces it with a stud, the wire loom crosses over this point and rubs... more info in video.
IPR valve is the problem about 20% of the time on all trucks and vans. All years. If you had someone who recently oil cooler or the valve cover off or the injectors, you have the possibility of contamination. Pull the IPR and inspect the screen and clean out/replace the valve.
Summary: If you don't hear it running, check your fuel bowl anyway (by removing the upper fuel filter) If it is full, leave the cap off, put the keys in your pocket and use the starter wire on the passenger side to turn the motor over. (details in video) If the fuel leaks down, you likely have a broken injector tip.
Troubleshooting - Part 3
Compare yours with these:
Normal ICP and IPR values with 15w 40 oil ?
Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
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Edit: Sorry, still looking, can't find the photo, or a 35mm or 1 3/8 wrench. You can try and find a cheap crow's foot in that size or just pony up the $17.20 for the Lisle socket on Amazon...
#13
Some people have used:
1. IPR socket, 3/8" swivel, 12" 3/8 extension and a flex head ratchet, remove FICM and bracket off behind the valve cover.
2. IPR socket, 3/8" swivel, 3 inch extension. remove the heat sheild for where the FICM and up pipes come together, leave FICM and Turbo On.
3. Adjustable wrench, removed the coolant reservoir, FCIM, moved the wiring harness out of the way, and was able to do it (painfully slow)
4. 35mm or 1 3/8 wrench cut in half.
Try different ones and see what comes up best for you.
1. IPR socket, 3/8" swivel, 12" 3/8 extension and a flex head ratchet, remove FICM and bracket off behind the valve cover.
2. IPR socket, 3/8" swivel, 3 inch extension. remove the heat sheild for where the FICM and up pipes come together, leave FICM and Turbo On.
3. Adjustable wrench, removed the coolant reservoir, FCIM, moved the wiring harness out of the way, and was able to do it (painfully slow)
4. 35mm or 1 3/8 wrench cut in half.
Try different ones and see what comes up best for you.
#14
I think you need a 35mm open end wrench and cut it in half, socket won't work unless you have the special one. Let me see if I can find a photo of what someone did.
Edit: Sorry, still looking, can't find the photo, or a 35mm or 1 3/8 wrench. You can try and find a cheap crow's foot in that size or just pony up the $17.20 for the Lisle socket on Amazon...
Lisle 68210 IPR Socket for Ford Diesel : Amazon.com : Automotive
Edit: Sorry, still looking, can't find the photo, or a 35mm or 1 3/8 wrench. You can try and find a cheap crow's foot in that size or just pony up the $17.20 for the Lisle socket on Amazon...
Lisle 68210 IPR Socket for Ford Diesel : Amazon.com : Automotive
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