Hey everyone,

I've been lurking here for a few weeks now researching for my current project. I've read almost every thread from page 1 to 40 of the listed threads here. I feel like I already know some of you. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys here and the help has been priceless.

See, a friend of mine acquired a '47 pickup when he purchased an adjoining building to his business. The truck was literally in pieces. From cab, box, frame, to window regulators. EVERYTHING, was taken apart. I'm restoring it for him. It's going to be a challenge to put it together since I've never seen it together. Luckily I have this resource here with you fellas where I can ask questions and get a hint here and there.

PLANS:

Most everything is ordered for the build already:

-The truck was without a motor, so I sourced a rebuilt 400hp 306 (bored 302) from another friend. ( Will use C4 Transmission)

-Mustang II IFS kit and motor mounts from Fatman Fab (Hub to hub stage 2)

-9" rear with parallel 4-link/panhard

-Tubular Crossmember, pedal ***. and mas. cylinder/dual booster from Progressive Auto (frame will be boxed)

-$2000 worth from MacsAutoParts.com, Dennis Carpenter, (Glass set, new handles, hardware, seals etc.)

-255/65/16 General Tire "Grabbers" on 16x8 American Racing NOVA Wheels

-20 circuit universal 12 Volt wiring harness

-"Hot rod" heater from eBay

-Dakota Digital Gauge cluster/alum. bezel

-Dual wipers kit

-Fiberglass running boards

-Summit Racing tilt column (col. shift), mahogany steering wheel. (Dash and doors will be made to match it with mahogany panels)

-HID headlights, new markers, tail lights.


What it looked like when I first saw it:




Moving the frame to the shop:




Looks like the PO tried some patch work on both of the front fenders (where the running boards mount):


It needed to be fixed up:




The upper main part of the patch was pretty good. I just fixed up the lip and ran the same piece up a couple inches on the inside since the running boards need the extra material for mounting (strength). I believe that its doubled up from factory for that.

Worked on the passenger door. Had to drill the locks set screw out because the socket part of it snapped off as I tried to unscrew it.

The main part of the lower inside panel was already cut out. I cut out more (was rusted bad) and took the profile to a sheet metal shop. They're bending up a new piece for me, should be ready tomorrow. It actually has to be done in 2 pieces because the one spot has 2 bends closer than 9/16". So I'll see how that turns out.


As you can see the corner was in rough shape too. So I cut and bent a piece up for that. Once it shaped it should turn out good:





The rest of the pics are just bodywork on some fenders, tailgate, and hood. Pretty self explanatory. The one rear fender was caked in Bondo and it was flaking off, (PO put bondo on unsanded bondo) so I ground it all off and found rust. I've been putting "rust convertor" everywhere its needed.










Sprayed with a high solids/build primer, 3 coats.

 

I'll try to keep the build updated as I go and I'll likely pop in with a questions. I hope ya like pictures, I take a lot. That's all I can offer in return for your help ...I'm gonna need it.

 

Hi, I think just by seeing the picture's so far it is gonna be really cool to see how it looks, PLUS I Love that style of cab etc... it is gonna be really satisfying to see your own project coming together by your own hands. The hood and tailgate looks great after you sprayed it, and the body work looks like it's coming along. I'm currently Restoring my 1958 Ford F250 and when I got it about a year ago it was in REALLY ROUGH SHAPE, but I put ALLOT of elbow grease into it, got it running and looking better and it feels Pretty Damn good since I did most of the work myself. My 58 still needs alot more work but just saying although you have your work cut out for you it should be fun... GOOD LUCK !!! Keep the progress going and if you can continue the pictures it would be cool to see it come alive LOL....

 

Keep up the great work! We do love pictures. (I need to update myself)

 

The sheet metal shop didn't make my inner door pieces yet so I started on the drivers door. The outer bottom 2-3" of the door skin was cut out, minus the lip. Also 2" of the lower inner skin was cut out. So I started cutting, bending and fitting the new metal.















I would of got more done today but I ended up touching up a Jeep for my friend. He wants to trade it in but the rear fender was all rock chipped because the step bar was removed. And the aluminum hinges were corroding bad.





I unfortunately won't be at it again until the weekend. So maybe I'll update again on Monday.

 

The bottom of door came out nice, after you finish it up and paint it it will look as good as new, also the JEEP came out nice..... Take Care !!!

 

Thanks!

I did some more work lately. Juggling another job right now too so I progress will be here and there. The drivers door is basically done now....







Then I started on the grill...



The PO started putting the patches in. They needed to be fixed up quite a lot but it turned out well.

I have a question regarding the trim bars that go on the grill. As you can see, there are only mounting holes for 2 bars on each side. So it looks like this grill takes a total of 13 bars. I've seen a few pics of other trucks with only 13 bars too. Most have 5 groups of 3 (15). Why the difference?

 

On the ends, only two bars are spaced in the cutout, the third is on the outer edge. I can't tell in your pics, but is there a hole out the edge of the cutout for the third bar?

 

Looks like the holes need to be re-drilled after the patch. Hmm, then again, I don't see the top hole either. Mine has all 15.

 

Yeah it most definitely only had 2 bars on each side from the factory. I'm also wondering if there wasn't a center trim bar? There aren't any holes for it either. The center grill bar does have a few nuts inserts along its length though, as if something attaches to it. I don't understand that.

 

 

Hi, Very Nice the door completed looks great & the grill I'm sure will clean up nicely too....

 

Wow! Very nice work there. You a woodworker too? Also, are you going to put drain holes in the door bottoms?

 

Thanks for the kind words. I'm working in the corner of the woodshop area of my friends business. We looked for a shop to rent to do the build, but no luck. The area I have will work just fine though.

And yeah, thanks for reminding me about that!

Here's what I got done today....

The metal shop came through with my pieces so I got to putting them together.






For some reason the pic bent the sill?? Maybe the light messed with it? But I assure you its straight.


Wet primer


Did some more work on the grill too, it's basically ready for primer now.

I ordered the grill bars from Macs, 8 weeks away! Told them "oh well, that'll give me some time to put something together to put them on." I read that they aren't "the best quality" from a thread about 3yrs old. I hope things have changed. We'll see.

I also ordered a 33 x 17 x 14 JAZ 32 Gallon Polyethylene Street/Racing Fuel Cell/Tank w/Cap and Dakota digital fuel sender. And, a Dakota digital gear selection sender unit for the C4 since the digital dash has provision for that.

The fuel cell will go in the box in a wooden "work box" along with the Optima red top battery. All of the wood from dash/door panels to the box will match the mohogany steering wheel I ordered.

More work tomorrow. Later

 

I worked late yesterday and got the rest of the parts into primer.

First I ground the filler out of the drivers fender and treated the rust with convertor. Hammered out the dents a little better, fixed some rust holes and slapped some new filler on it..a lot less filler!

















So now I just need to work on the cab and box. They both seem to be in good shape so they won't take too much work. I think the PO replaced the floorboards in the cab, they're in excellent shape and the underside has new'ish paint.

But first, I think I'll start boxing in the frame and getting it ready to install the cab and box for good. A lot of the parts are arriving now so I can start the chassis work.