djm lowering kit
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Shelton, Wa
How many leaves do you have in the packs? Still sprung over? Which hangers does your truck have, there was taller and shorter ones used factory.
Probably start by taking out the thick overload leafs on the bottom of the packs.
Probably start by taking out the thick overload leafs on the bottom of the packs.
New User
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Turlock
) I ended up removing the second to last overload leaf.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
I agree with oddfordjunkie ^, I came across a similar situation but instead of me using DJM Lowering I-Beams (Which they are crazy expensive) I ordered custom spindles (4 inch drop) and I used some cheap aftermarket hangers for the rear (ha I'm so cheap ) I ended up removing the second to last overload leaf.
) I ended up removing the second to last overload leaf.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,600
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From: Billings, MT
A word of caution : you do not want the truck sitting level at rest. If it does it will look like a squatting dog or pre-runner going down the road. The rear suspension compresses when loaded from the torque to move the truck.
If not hauling you want to be between 3/4" to 1" higher in the rear (I prefer 1")
If the truck is used to haul or tow at all, 2" at least higher in the rear and bags for heavy towing.
I just got some beams myself and am planning to do hangers and shackles in the rear, probably be about 2" higher than the front.
If not hauling you want to be between 3/4" to 1" higher in the rear (I prefer 1")
If the truck is used to haul or tow at all, 2" at least higher in the rear and bags for heavy towing.
I just got some beams myself and am planning to do hangers and shackles in the rear, probably be about 2" higher than the front.
New User
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Turlock
My local bodyshop, I don't know where exactly you can get them online, I've searched and was unsuccessful, although I did see a magazine at my local Walmart called "Classic Trucks" were they were available for $98 each (F100- F150 Only) about 2 months ago.
I've heard something similar but for early 70's fords, not sure if it will work for the 6th generation.
I've read you can swap the spindles side to side and gain some drop is this true or myth?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Northeast LA
Sorry 
I'd like to know about these too, because I've always heard lowering spindles weren't made for our trucks. I know you say custom, but I don't see how you could have custom spindles made for less than some off the shelf dream beams.
I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see some pics of the set up.
I agree with oddfordjunkie ^, I came across a similar situation but instead of me using DJM Lowering I-Beams (Which they are crazy expensive) I ordered custom spindles (4 inch drop) and I used some cheap aftermarket hangers for the rear (ha I'm so cheap ) I ended up removing the second to last overload leaf.
) I ended up removing the second to last overload leaf.I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see some pics of the set up.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 24
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From: Turlock
Sorry
I'd like to know about these too, because I've always heard lowering spindles weren't made for our trucks. I know you say custom, but I don't see how you could have custom spindles made for less than some off the shelf dream beams.
I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see some pics of the set up.
I'd like to know about these too, because I've always heard lowering spindles weren't made for our trucks. I know you say custom, but I don't see how you could have custom spindles made for less than some off the shelf dream beams.
I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see some pics of the set up.
If I remember correctly from what they told me(at the bodyshop):
* You could also have your beams bent as a cheaper alternative, even cheaper:
* Cut the coils, and re-align the beams (when they re-align they drill out new holes on the beam supports), *problem*, it only lowers about 2-3 inches and on really hard bumps, the beams will hit.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,722
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From: Shelton, Wa
A word of caution : you do not want the truck sitting level at rest. If it does it will look like a squatting dog or pre-runner going down the road. The rear suspension compresses when loaded from the torque to move the truck.
If not hauling you want to be between 3/4" to 1" higher in the rear (I prefer 1")
If not hauling you want to be between 3/4" to 1" higher in the rear (I prefer 1")
I went up instead of down by doing a shackle flip in the rear and making coil spacers for the front that bolt on under the spring cup. I plan to take a couple leaves out and put my overload bags on so I can have a softer ride empty and still level it when I hook the trailer up.
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