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So here is the update. I got pissed got a jump. Let it idle for 20 minutes maybe, drove it for an hour with a couple stops. Shut it off. Waited 2 minutes and started again. So I'm not thinking alternator... I'm thinking power loss? I don't know how.. Because I have had the truck a week and haven't had this issue.. So what the hell? Seemed like alt worked then.
Stop thinking and get an harbor freight junk multimeter. They cost like $5 or $10. You can get them free sometimes with a small purchase, that's how cheap they are.
Originally Posted by Guzzo
I felt the alternator after 5 minutes. It was HOT like couldn't hold hand on it for more then 4 seconds. Is that normal? What is my issue??????
pcm and ecm are important brain boxes or computers in your vehicle. Fry one of those and you're SOL
eew.. how much do those cost?
im inclined to just get a new alt. but it seems like it is working? i dont know what the hell is draining the battery's thought at this point....
if my truck was just running off the batterys, being dead enough to not start... then a 10 minute jump would not charge them enough to last more then 30 minutes.. and it did...
Not real sure but if you have an Auto Zone or other chain store of the sorts I would drive over to them and let them test your batteries and alternator. Just make sure you take an 8mm socket and ratchet or wrench with you so that you can isolate each battery prior to testing. I understand you want to get it running and I don't blame you one bit but I would hate for you to shell out the cash for an alternator and install only to find out that you needed batteries. As far as ECM's and PCM's go I have never priced, but can't imagine them being cheap.
PCM = Powertrain control module. If you have your scan gauge II setup it will tell you if the alternator is charging, just watch the system volts and if it never comes above 12 volts you have an issue, it should be between 13.6 to 14 volts after the glow plugs shut off ( approximately 120 seconds at the longest ). It would be a really good idea to run to the local autoparts store and have them load test the batteries separately ( completely disconnected from one another ) and have the alternator tested as stated above. Some things you can do yourself would be to make sure you are getting a good connection on all of your battery cables.
Guzzo, I've been watching your threads, and I'm not trying to be a smart *** or anything,you have got to sit down and take some time to read the 6.0 bible.This will help you understand these trucks and help us help you with the problems that are coming up. I understand how it is not to have your tools with you,been there done that, but you have to have a little foresight where to start and look,so take a little time and do some reading, and it will help alot,believe me i know,these trucks are like no other diesel out there and have all their own parameters
Guzzo, I've been watching your threads, and I'm not trying to be a smart *** or anything,you have got to sit down and take some time to read the 6.0 bible.This will help you understand these trucks and help us help you with the problems that are coming up. I understand how it is not to have your tools with you,been there done that, but you have to have a little foresight where to start and look,so take a little time and do some reading, and it will help alot,believe me i know,these trucks are like no other diesel out there and have all their own parameters
Hey Guzzo,
If Harbor Freight is close by then pick up a cheap 12 Volt Battery/Alternator Tester
(Chicago Electric Power Tools - item#66842 ). It's only $5.99. It's a great tool to have. It plugs right in Cig lighter and it tells you if your batteries/Alternator are good or not.
I just wonder if its a Parasitic Battery Drain that takes a Few Days too show itself
Or just the alternator Undercharging
Did you get any Battery light on the dash???as you drive or warm up?? its been a great indicator of ba alternators on here and very accurate seems like