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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Bed slat alternatives

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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:36 AM
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Bed slat alternatives

I have a 63 f100 and I don't know if any of you have ever seen this, but the wood slats have rotted and fallen out.
OK. I know they do that. This 63' is a driver and by no means a show piece. It's a stock driver for our truck fix while we make a project of our 55'.
So, I wouldn't mind putting something back there so we can haul some things......like a gas can.....an excuse to go into town in the old truck.
But, I don't want to spend $400 getting nice wood slats and the metal dividers. What have you guys done that was more cost effective? I was even considering taking a piece of oak vanier plywood and staining and sealing it and using aluminum angle around the edges to finish it off. One thing I wasn't sure of is how these things drain rainwater out of them. How does the original design do it? I really don't want to weld in a piece of steel, as I may want to make it nice some day.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 10:09 AM
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From: placer county usa?
got the wood from a friend for $30 so spent more on the ss strips
but it a little bling
if you go with wood paint or varnish all sides and edges
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 10:25 AM
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What form was the wood in? Is there a needed machining on the edges of the boards, or do we just cut to width and use the metal strips to fasten? It seemed like I had seen that the strips need some sort of recess to fit into.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 04:34 PM
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A 4 X 8 sheet of hardwood plywood, stained and coated with spar urethane works well in mine.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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From: placer county usa?
Originally Posted by Wolfracing
What form was the wood in? Is there a needed machining on the edges of the boards, or do we just cut to width and use the metal strips to fasten? It seemed like I had seen that the strips need some sort of recess to fit into.
Yes router or dato or both and a space between each board for bolts
Plywood works on a 4' wide box mine is 54" wide
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 03:36 PM
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I am really still debating what to do with this project. The strips were not worth saving. I am refirb'ing the cross beams to save them from rust. What thickness is the wood that goes in there stock?
I thought about 3/4" plywood with vaneer would look pretty enough and if treated well should be somewhat durable. But if we go into the channels on both sides, we need just a little more than 48" wide. Maybe the solution is to put a piece of aluminum around the edge as trim/transition.
Any pictures of plywood used as a bed?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 04:53 PM
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From: placer county usa?
should be able to rip the plywood (if that is what you use) and space out under the strips so you wont need to drill holes or you could still drill but be aware you cut the plywood for the strips you will be cutting through the veneer the exterior of the plywood
the wood decks I have seen are also beveled on the edges to fit under the outside side of the bed(side walls)
a pic under the bed may give more help, im still at work will try tonight
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 07:40 PM
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From: placer county usa?
here is the under side
 
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 07:45 PM
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From: placer county usa?
here is a pic of one of the old boards out of the bed

trying to show the router/dato cut/groove for the metal strip
the top of the metal strips are suppost to be on or in the same plain as the top of the wood boards not easy for me to explain
 

Last edited by schoo; Mar 19, 2014 at 07:55 PM. Reason: added more after thoughts
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 07:06 AM
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The metal divider strips, bed wood is available from Mar-K (mar-k.com) and all the repro parts sellers as a kit that includes the hardware.

The wood (pine originally, oak also available) is pre-rabbeted. So it's a simple installation with no hand fitting required.

And, the wood and divider strips were painted body color originally.
 
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