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Gary, he has a good point - everything was fine until the head gasket change, which means something got messed up somewhere....
Was everything fine before the headgasket change? How could it be if a swap to DS-II is only half way done? I'm getting all sorts of conflicting info on this. How does he know that it is halfway to having DS-II? So, what if it is fully EEC'd and he left something off or disconnected when he R&R'd the headgasket?
Let's agree on a process and do it without deviating. And, if this rascal has a computer the absolute first thing to do is to pull the codes. If it doesn't have a computer then the absolute first thing to do is to convert to DS-II.
Well, when I bought the truck it was warm out, like 80s, ran fine when test drove ect. Got it home ran it every other week or so, then it just sat till I changed the head gasket, since it's been changed, the watcher has been much colder like 40s, I think I read somewhere if you still have the computer controlled dist. It will run like crap when trying to start cold, hard to start, run crappy all around, so I'm wondering if I should hit the junkyard and finish the conversion? It has the intake and ex sugars off and 82 i believe along with carb and carb rebuild air pump gone, vac lines plugged ect.
As I said: Let's agree on a process and do it without deviating. And, if this rascal has a computer the absolute first thing to do is to pull the codes. If it doesn't have a computer then the absolute first thing to do is to convert to DS-II.
Let me say it another way - I believe your truck's computer has its knickers in a twist because of some input that is out of whack or not even there. So it has the timing locked in a mode where it won't run well hot, cold, or any other way. You have a choice: Ask the computer what it thinks the problem is and fix that, or take the computer out and convert to DS-II. If you do the latter you don't know that it will fix it because you don't know that the ignition timing is the only problem. The better course is to ask the computer - it costs nothing and will give you information you will not have otherwise.
So PLEASE choose an approach, let us know which, and stick with it.
To tell you the truth, I've not done it on a non-EFI system, but I know it can be done. Here's a link to how to do it on an EFI system - hopefully it will give you enough info. If not I'll ping someone for help.
To tell you the truth, I've not done it on a non-EFI system, but I know it can be done. Here's a link to how to do it on an EFI system - hopefully it will give you enough info. If not I'll ping someone for help.
ill try it, but i think ill just record it.... i dont believe i will be able to "read" it right, then ill just upload to youtube and post a link, ill try to get the codes, but idk.
ok, am i doing this right? this to this, then when i turned the key, nothing happened, just the 2 lights that come on and that was it, no clicks noting, is there a fuse that could be fried? or bad relays.
Please be more specific - "the 2 lights that come on" tells me absolutely nothing. Were they the dome light? The head lights? Seriously, you have to tell me everything because all I know I'm getting from you - and I'm lost at this point.
Please be more specific - "the 2 lights that come on" tells me absolutely nothing. Were they the dome light? The head lights? Seriously, you have to tell me everything because all I know I'm getting from you - and I'm lost at this point.
And, was that the negative post of the battery?
the lights on the dash board, very far left, and middle, no clue what they are due to the things are missing. yes it was the negative post, and join the club on the lost part
That's better. Maybe we can get out of the woods together. I just happen to have an 85 instrument bezel and the left light is Emissions, aka Check Engine, and the middle one is High Beam. (See, I told you it was the headlights. )
So, you do have a computer or the Emissions light wouldn't be on. But, it doesn't flash after a few seconds to a minute when doing the test?
That's better. Maybe we can get out of the woods together. I just happen to have an 85 instrument bezel and the left light is Emissions, aka Check Engine, and the middle one is High Beam. (See, I told you it was the headlights. )
So, you do have a computer or the Emissions light wouldn't be on. But, it doesn't flash after a few seconds to a minute when doing the test?
no, i turn the key check engine light goes off (as usual) then the other one, then its just nothin, no clicking, no lights come back. is it possible the computer took a crap? ive heard from someone that used to know the guy with this truck, said it had a lot of electrical issues. so should i just pray the one truck, in the junk yard is a year 80-83? and complete the swap. or am i doing the test wrong? is there a time frame to turn the key on after you connect the wire to ground?
I looked at the last couple of pages of threads, it sounds like the computer is disconnected/not working doing anything. So you will probably get codes if you could even get the computer to talk to you.
I am thinking that could be part of your problem. But from what I gather, these things will run with the computer not hooked up, just not very well/not much power. I would get a timing light and check and see where the timing is. Use that as a reference point so you can put it back, and then just turn it one way and see what the engine does, and then turn it the other way and see what the engine does. See if you can get it to run better at one certain spot. You will need to set the timing anyway if you ever put the duraspark II ignition in place. You could go out and just move the dist, but you could be adding on more problems, that is why you need to see where it's at now, so you can put it back if it gets worse.
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