Undercoating help
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 769
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From: Poplar Bluff, MO
Undercoating help
96 f150 4x4... Got the bed off, and am going to be wire brush and wheeling the frame, gas tank, wheel wells and underneath of the bed.. Any thing im forgetting?
I have a bunch of rattle cans of the Rustoleum Professional Undercoating. My main question is what else do i need to remove? I mean as far as the frame, there are brake lines, fuel lines and all that other good stuff I didn't want to just spray right over it.
here's the bed
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps394e8945.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psd9a43027.jpg
and the truck itself
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps470f57b0.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps635956cb.jpg
and lastly im assuming i need to remove the gas tank? If so other than the two metal straps over the top what else needs to be done?
I have a bunch of rattle cans of the Rustoleum Professional Undercoating. My main question is what else do i need to remove? I mean as far as the frame, there are brake lines, fuel lines and all that other good stuff I didn't want to just spray right over it.
here's the bed
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps394e8945.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psd9a43027.jpg
and the truck itself
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps470f57b0.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps635956cb.jpg
and lastly im assuming i need to remove the gas tank? If so other than the two metal straps over the top what else needs to be done?
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Truck looks pretty clean, dont ruin it with undercoat.
Stand the bed up on its front and power wash it, Also power wash the frame and the underside of the body.
After it tis dry, wire brush or sand everything you can. Then power wash again.
Then let the truck sit SEVERAL days to dry, occasionally taking compressed air to any pockets to blow out any trapped water.
Then spend the money and buy Chassis Saver, POR15, Rust Encapsulator, or PM Industries and PAINT everything
Stand the bed up on its front and power wash it, Also power wash the frame and the underside of the body.
After it tis dry, wire brush or sand everything you can. Then power wash again.
Then let the truck sit SEVERAL days to dry, occasionally taking compressed air to any pockets to blow out any trapped water.
Then spend the money and buy Chassis Saver, POR15, Rust Encapsulator, or PM Industries and PAINT everything
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
To my knowledge, there's nothing wrong with undercoat, but I'm not an expert.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 51
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From: Keokuk, Iowa
Ford has their tested and approved undercoating available in 1 qt, which requires a gun or in aerosol spray cans. Don't remember the part number, but your dealer's part dept should be able to help you.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
The problem with undercoat is that it sticks better to itself than it does to the surface being sprayed on.
So it will get a pin hole in it, let in moisture and ROT the metal out behind it. It does not peal off, letting you see what is going on.
PAINT on the other hand will lift and peal off when moisture gets behind it. THEN you can see you have a problem and FIX it
So it will get a pin hole in it, let in moisture and ROT the metal out behind it. It does not peal off, letting you see what is going on.
PAINT on the other hand will lift and peal off when moisture gets behind it. THEN you can see you have a problem and FIX it
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 51
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From: Keokuk, Iowa
Undercoat
The Motorcraft does not do that, which is called "pocketing" due to it's formulation. As long as the surface is fairly clean, it does not pocket or lift off. I have it on two of my 77 Ford's, one for over 6 years, no problem. You buy the other stuff that is marketed as "undercoating" and it's just recycled asphalt and solvent. Big difference between the Motorcraft and the junk that is sold as undercoating to people.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
The Motorcraft does not do that, which is called "pocketing" due to it's formulation. As long as the surface is fairly clean, it does not pocket or lift off. I have it on two of my 77 Ford's, one for over 6 years, no problem. You buy the other stuff that is marketed as "undercoating" and it's just recycled asphalt and solvent. Big difference between the Motorcraft and the junk that is sold as undercoating to people.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
What I'm gathering from this conversation is that undercoating and paint have similar requirements: being done right. It doesn't matter the coating, whether it's undercoat, paint, engine paint, powder coating, etc... if the surface prep isn't done correctly, the coating won't stick.
Now it may be true that undercoat won't peel off and paint will (I can't say for sure since I don't have the experience to know), but that doesn't change the fact that if the prep work is done right, undercoat can be just as effective as paint or other coatings.
I'm not saying that there isn't real junk products on the market, but in this case, I don't see anybody presenting any "real" reasons (meaning there's something fundamentally wrong with what the product is or how it's manufactured) why undercoating is bad... just that they've had bad experiences with it.
I'm willing to admit I'm wrong, but not because someone has had a bad experience with it.... I had a bad experience in high school 15 years ago, doesn't mean high school is bad... unless it's public high school.
Now it may be true that undercoat won't peel off and paint will (I can't say for sure since I don't have the experience to know), but that doesn't change the fact that if the prep work is done right, undercoat can be just as effective as paint or other coatings.
I'm not saying that there isn't real junk products on the market, but in this case, I don't see anybody presenting any "real" reasons (meaning there's something fundamentally wrong with what the product is or how it's manufactured) why undercoating is bad... just that they've had bad experiences with it.
I'm willing to admit I'm wrong, but not because someone has had a bad experience with it.... I had a bad experience in high school 15 years ago, doesn't mean high school is bad... unless it's public high school.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Poplar Bluff, MO
well i'm not really in a rust state either.. Im in southeast Missouri, we do see snow and ice tho and sometimes in great quantities.. But honestly the truck will probably never get driven in the winter anymore especially not in the snow.. This is no longer my daily driver so it'll be a summer rig just for fun on the weekends, and to cruise around in to the river and what have ya.. I have heard what diesel is saying about it trapping moisture i just figured since it wont see salt or any thing during the winter the undercoating would be okay if I prep it well and do it well. Besides the undercoating would make cleaning the undercarriage easier and certainly look better as well.. Hell I might just take it to get rhino lined, line exed or whatever yall wanna call it..
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,403
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From: Charlestown, RI
I've seen cars and trucks that were undercoated, never driven in winter, and rotted anyway. Like someone else mentioned, if the "skin" of the undercoat is compromised (scratched, pin hole, etc), it ends up trapping moisture and rotting whatever is underneath it. It's not just a bad experience like a zit on prom night in high school, it's a proven fact.
Now, on to my opinion... I'd do what Brad suggests with powerwashing and making sure it's clean and dry before coating it. Since it's not all that rusty now, that should be all it needs before coating it. Since you're doing everything else about the build the right way, I'd suggest getting some POR15, chassis saver, etc. Or maybe try a product I just used, coal tar epoxy. Supposedly it's even more durable than POR, at half the cost. Be warned though, it's thick as molasses, but thinning it makes it easier to brush on. The brand I got was Rustoleum, but there's a lot of manufacturers that make it.
Now, on to my opinion... I'd do what Brad suggests with powerwashing and making sure it's clean and dry before coating it. Since it's not all that rusty now, that should be all it needs before coating it. Since you're doing everything else about the build the right way, I'd suggest getting some POR15, chassis saver, etc. Or maybe try a product I just used, coal tar epoxy. Supposedly it's even more durable than POR, at half the cost. Be warned though, it's thick as molasses, but thinning it makes it easier to brush on. The brand I got was Rustoleum, but there's a lot of manufacturers that make it.
Elder User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 533
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Don't do it! I made the mistake of undercoating my first truck and it rotted away faster than i could imagine. One rear shock fell off and i went to investigate to see how to fix and found the whole back frame rails rusted out... 