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This truck is a ’72 390 CS. It has 64K original miles on the original engine. Been told that if I do not intend to race the truck, then why invest in headers? Here in the desert, the engine will run hotter. The headers will burn up wires, cook starters, burn up the exhaust gaskets, and get exhaust leaks. Is it worth putting headers on this 390 or just keeping the old logs if it is just going to be a daily driver? I will have put an edlebrock intake, and edlebrock 4 barrel, along with the HEI , and dual exhaust. Just not sure if it is worth all the hassles for headers.
This truck is a 72 390 CS. It has 64K original miles on the original engine. Been told that if I do not intend to race the truck, then why invest in headers? Here in the desert, the engine will run hotter. The headers will burn up wires, cook starters, burn up the exhaust gaskets, and get exhaust leaks. Is it worth putting headers on this 390 or just keeping the old logs if it is just going to be a daily driver? I will have put an edlebrock intake, and edlebrock 4 barrel, along with the HEI , and dual exhaust. Just not sure if it is worth all the hassles for headers.
Hi! I'm New to the site. I have a 70 F250 with a 360 that I'm fixing up. Part of what I'm doing is increasing the power output of my little big block and part of that formula includes the installation of headers.
You mentioned the problems typically associated with using tube headers and for sure lots of us have experienced some or all of those. I also know that there are many things you can do to avoid all of those problems. Start by spending a little more on your headers. Don't buy cheap unless you figure on replacing them inside of ten years. Consider ceramic coating. Costs more but won't rust out. Heat shields and or thermal wrap will eliminate burning wires as will extra attention to routing. Buy locking header bolts to prevent bolts from backing out.
I want headers for my truck for the sound and performance.
Hi! I'm New to the site. I have a 70 F250 with a 360 that I'm fixing up. Part of what I'm doing is increasing the power output of my little big block and part of that formula includes the installation of headers.
You mentioned the problems typically associated with using tube headers and for sure lots of us have experienced some or all of those. I also know that there are many things you can do to avoid all of those problems. Start by spending a little more on your headers. Don't buy cheap unless you figure on replacing them inside of ten years. Consider ceramic coating. Costs more but won't rust out. Heat shields and or thermal wrap will eliminate burning wires as will extra attention to routing. Buy locking header bolts to prevent bolts from backing out.
I want headers for my truck for the sound and performance.
I am fairly new as well. I agree with what you are saying, just not sure if it is worth the effort. I can have done all those things as well and I thought about all those corrections. The engine wouldn't be pulled unless we had problems backing out the old bolts. Then we really screwed the pooch. Part of my "is it really worth the effort".
2X newbie skrud. I personally think the PINTA install will be worth it and appreciated by you once done. Sound,power in passing gear, probably a little better gas mileage,ETC. USE STAGE 8 brand LOCKING Header Bolts. You'll never have blown out header gaskets with them.
Exactly! That's why I say headers are worth it if you do it right. Most guys could slap on some cheap headers, beat the crap out of them to get them to fit right and be happy for six months until the problems started arising. If done right the first time, you'll never have a worry.
I doubt that you will be able to get the starter out without pulling the header but you will certainly bake the starter very quickly.
2X John unless you either heat wrap the headers Or make a simple shield for the starter. The Sanderson's that are above in Hio's reply would not have these problems however.
Have a 1968 360 manual. Will full size headers fit?
Well when you buy the headers, always make sure that they are for your application. Summit Racing, in their parts description, has a check list that answers all of the questions concerning fitment to make sure that you're getting the ones made for your application such as: 2 or 4wd, auto or manual, floor shift etc. If your parts supplier doesn't offer this information, I would suggest calling them directly. Good luck!
Montana. Man,dude,Good Job! I added this to my favorites. I can see me pasting this one a bunch in the future. When I do I'll give you the fame. You deserve it for finding this.
Montana. Man,dude,Good Job! I added this to my favorites. I can see me pasting this one a bunch in the future. When I do I'll give you the fame. You deserve it for finding this.
Wish I could take credit but I "stole" it off the FE forum years ago.
It is a very informative link though, so feel free to pass it along.