My 4 Way flashers are not working again. Of course it could be the flasher but I had replaced it last winter.

Question: How do I use my multimeter to see if the flasher is getting current?

 

First off, are your brake lights working? If they are, you probably have power to the flasher. If not, check the fuse. If the fuse is good, pull the flasher relay and set your meter to 25VDC range. Ground the black lead from your meter and probe the connector that goes to the flasher relay with the red probe. The terminal with two wires (Red w/White stripe & solid Red) is power from the fuse. It should read 12VDC constant, even with the ign. switch off.

Good luck!

 

OK thanks. I will get to that Sunday or Monday.

Brake lights are working but this is on my flatbed and I have separate brake lights from my tail lights and turnsignals...

 

Where is the 4 way flasher relay located? No see um.

 

Ahh, okay. Did not know that about the "Dump Bump" flatbed. Checking for voltage should still be done the same way. If you really want to check for "current", that is a whole nother process, and not recommended.

Another way to check the power and wiring is to just jumper the two terminals on the "Emergency Warning Flasher" connector. Your lights should come on but not flash. I take no responsibility if you zap yourself, so be sure to use insulated wire if you try this... and be careful.

Bill, it is the Emergency Warning Flasher. Technically, it is a relay but I guess I should just use the name as it is listed to keep confusion down . Thanks for the reminder.

 

13350: Where does it say relay? No see um.

4 way flasher is a H/D unit, has a loud CLICK. Can be used in place of T/S flasher, but T/S flasher should not be used in place of 4 way flasher.

 

I suppose I could replace the turn signal flasher with the 4 way flasher. If the turn signals don't work then I know the 4 way flasher unit is bad and needs replaced.

 

This afternoon I pulled the HD 4 way flasher and put it in the place of the TS flasher. The turn signals worked.

So... the flasher unit is good. So there must be a short or a disconnect somewhere. This doesn't surprise me. When I got the truck last year the 4-ways didn't work. Then mysteriously they started working and continued working until about July of this year... What shall I do now?

I plan on leaving the HD flasher in the TS place as it does click louder and my TS indicators do not flash and the right one does not cancel, so it is a good reminder that the TS is on!

 

I'm betting it's in the switch Abe. If it were a ground or bulb you'd be able to tell by the turn signals. I don't think the 4-ways go through the t/s switch as in a Dent. I would check for power in and out of the 4-way switch. Sounds like you need a t/s switch also for the cancel and probably the indicator lights.

 

DOTZ-13341-B .. T/S Switch / Obsolete

1969 F100/350 from serial #G30,001 / 1970/72 F100/350.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.

POECS PARTS in Erie PA has 8 = 888-864-9305.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 43 = 800-476-9653.

VINTAGE PARTS INC. in Beaver Dam WI has 126 = 877-846-8243.
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DOTZ-13A350-A .. Emergency Flasher Switch / Obsolete

1970/72 F100/350.

GREEN SALES CO. has 2.

USD INC. in Phoenix AZ has 5 = 602-253-7111.

 

Jeff and Bill:

by the "Emergency Flasher Switch" or the "4-Way Switch" do you mean the switch on the dash that says Emergency Flasher on my 1970?

Don't want to sound like a dummy, but how would I check for power in and power out for this?

thanks, Abe

 

Parts catalog pic in post 4: 13A350 Emergency Warning Switch / Part number: DOTZ-13A350-A

 

thanks. Bill. That is what I thought you meant.

 

Abe. Yes, that is what we mean. I looked at 1970 schematic to trace wires. No color codes there though. Then went to 1972 schematic to get colors. Hopefully Ford didn't change the colors between the two years.

WIRES ON THE SWITCH:
white/red...power in from flasher can (H.D. green one)
w/b...........to right front lamp
g/w...........to left front lamp
r/bk...........eventually to rear lamps and dash lamps

SO, with a curcuit tester I would check for power at the switch's white/red wire. If no power there check to make sure there is power at the flasher can. Here check the OTHER wire,not the white/red. Power comes from fuse box to flasher,then from flasher to switch.
If there is power at the switch then check the switch to be good. 2 ways to do it. 1st being with power at the switch and it turned on poke any of the other three wires. Curcuit tester should light up. 2nd way (what I would do) is with the switch "on" and the wires disconnected use an ohmeter to connect the switch's terminal that the white/red wire goes to with any of the other three terminals. If you get some slight resistance it is good. If no resistance (an "open") then the switch is bad.

 

Jeff, Bill and others:

Boy do I feel sheepish! AS several of you said, I checked the fuse. It was good... Tonight I went out to check the wires to the flasher and the flasher switch. I looked at the fuse again and went to remove it to get a better look and lo and behold the 4-ways started working when I jiggled it! I removed it and it looked dirty, slightly corroded, a bit rusty. I cleaned it up with emery cloth and put it back in and they work...

Also, I put the heavy duty 4 way flasher on the turn signal wire because it clicks louder. This is good cause my right side signal does not cancel itself. Incidentally, I temporally had the TS flasher on the 4 way wire and the 4 ways worked. I did buy a HD Flasher however, since I figured the TS flasher would burn out if I kept it in...

Thanks for your help!