So I just bought a 95 F-250 460 4x4, and I was cruising the gravel roads and my transmission decided it wanted to boil in it's own juices. I had it towed to my mechanic they changed the trans fluid(which boiled out) and filter. It drives itself now and seems to be the same as it was before. The mechanic said it was really wore out inside and it had some shavings on the magnet. I said I was willing to give it a try before replacing it since it drives on it's own power.
I think if I could keep it cool it would last me a while no more than I drive it, but I know it is on it's last legs anyway. So what do you guys think I should do? I don't want to spend a ton of money a rebuild(a local shop quoted me $3000, and thats 2k more than I paid for the truck). I don't mind getting a used one in good shape, but I don't know if they all interchange from year to year.
I would like to know what you all think.

 

I think some shavings on the magnet is not a big deal.
Sounds like maybe you had it over filled and when it got up to temp and the transmission oil expand it came in contact with moving parts and agitated into some foam and came out the vent on top.
If it works OK drive it and I do not think you have to baby it.

 

Oh I hope that is right. It actually shifts good going into second gear, but I guess that means it's in limp mode. I feel paranoid about it. Is there a way to cool it down more without adding a cooler? You would think the factory cooler would be enough on a truck this big. I want to get the Banks Transcommand because they say it increases life of the trans by a lot.

 

Are you saying it only has 2nd gear and does not go into 3rd or OD?
If so check the plug on the passenger side. take the back of the plug off and check the wires as they go into the plug. The plug is behind a heat shield if it is still there.

When I posted the post above I thought you were saying in your first post that it shifted into all gears like it should and it did not slip. Did I read it right or not?

 

Yes it shifts into all gears, but it has a nice firm shift from 1st to 2nd, but the other shifts I only know it's shifting by watching the tach. I have been reading that a firm shift from 1st to 2nd usually means it's in limp mode.

 

But in limp mode it will not go into the other gears.

Here is a write up.

"Limp Mode" or "Fail Code" Condition
"Fail Code" conditions or "Limp Mode" happens when the vehicle computer recognizes a problem in it's logic. When an expected signal value from a sensor is sent to the computer and is not within the computer's programmed specifications, "secondary" programs are activated by the computer to strive to protect the transmission from damage the improper sensor signal might cause to occur.
In other words, the computer is always expecting certain signal values from certain sensors i.e. the temperature sensor, the speed sensor, the throttle position sensor, etc. As long as these signals are what it would normally expect for the conditions and is normal based on all the other signals it is receiving from other sensors, it acts normally and accordingly.
If the computer, all of a sudden, receives some crazy signal from one of the sensors that is out of the normal range expected from this sensor, it will go to "emergency" or "secondary" measures.
These emergency measures vary depending on the severity of the defective signal. All this is preprogrammed into the computer's logic by the manufacturer. The manufacturer has decided that as long as a certain parameter of a particular signal is sent from a sensor to the computer, all is well. The manufacturer decided that if this signal is higher than their highest parameter or lower than their lowest parameter, something is wrong with that sensor and the computer should make someone aware of the situation and take action to try to "save" the vehicle systems or powertrain.
Perhaps the computer will simply cause the "check engine" light to come on. The signal variation wasn't severe or critical to cause any mechanical failures but the vehicle's operator is made aware that he or she should have the vehicle checked out electronically to see if a minor sensor has broken down or is starting to send the odd irratic signal. This type of condition is commonly referred to as a "soft code". Normal functions are not affected but if the repair is not made, performance or fuel efficiencies might suffer. Perhaps the sensor only malfunctioned one time and all other times was fine. This might be an early warning of a sensor that is beginning to fail or has a loose connector or connection.
Other times the signal needed to perform operations normally is so far out of specification that the computer has no choice but to go into survival mode. With transmissions, the computer will cause the internal tranny fluid line pressure to default to high to protect clutches and bands. The transmission also turns off the shift solenoids to cause the unit to default to a single gear, usually second or third. All normal instructions to control line pressure are overridden so a hazardous "slipping condition" cannot occur easily. This theoretically is so that the vehicle's driver can get the damaged vehicle to the next town for repairs. This condition is commonly called "Limp Mode" for this reason. You limp to the next town in second or third gear only, at full line pressure so the tranny guts won't slip on your trip in.
By the way, interestingly and just as a side note, if the cable harness going to your transmission was ever to become detached, severed or damaged, your transmission would also go to "limp mode".
The vehicle's computer would immediately sense that it has lost contact with the transmission and would set the codes and send "limp mode" signals to the tranny. But because the harness is severed between the computer and the transmission, no computer signals will reach the transmission. These sent signals, however, would have had the identical affect on the transmission as what taking away supplied power to the shift and line pressure solenoids has as in the case of a transmission harness being detached or cut. Due to the engineered voltage strategies of the solenoids, the transmission simply defaults to a single gear and line pressure defaults to high, all in order to "limp" you home.
A Throttle Position Sensor that improperly sends a reading that it is wide open when in fact it is physically closed would be detected by the computer when it compared this reading with the vehicle speed sensor that perhaps is showing very slow vehicle speed. The signal, by itself can't be considered wrong but when put against all the other sensor signals of the system might cause a computer concern. The computer, at this point, unable to "trust" the collection of signals because together they are not making sense in it's logic, will simply go to limp mode in the transmission to protect it and make the operator aware that something is wrong with one of the sensors and a mechanic's attention is needed to correct the situation.
This Fail Code Condition will show up as a "code" reading on a mechanic's scanner. This code will be cross referenced to a table from the manufacturer and represent a problem with a particular sensor or a group of sensors or system. It gives the mechanic a better idea of where the problem has showed up and which systems or sensors are involved in the malfunction. The table of codes and what each one means, is commonly programmed right into the scanner tool that the mechanic uses for easy reference.
i.e. the scanner tool might tell the mechanic that the computer has thrown a code "35" which is the "transmission fluid temperature sensor" and might give the mechanic the recommended values this sensor should provide and what it in fact provided...
In your electronic transmission, many important functions are controlled by the computer. Shift timing, sequence, feel, line pressure are controlled. The information from the vehicle speed sensor affects fuel injection, fuel mixture, ABS, transmission operation, etc. Load information of your engine is commonly taken primarily from the TPS (throttle position sensor) or the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure). This controls transmission shifting and downshifting when stepping on the gas or climbing hills. A regular scanning of the computer for any set "hard" or "soft" codes is something routinely done by most good tuneup shops these days.

 

I guess it's not in limp mode then.

 

Well I drove it today, and the trans was still overheating and it smelled terrible(I didn't let it get hot enough to boil this time). I know the trans isn't overfilled. So I don't know what to do now. I am guessing it's screwed. Would any big block 4x4 1989-1997 E4OD tansmissions interchange with mine. I know that they kept improving the E4OD, but I wonder if even one that isn't so improved would work for me. I don't have 2 or 3 grand to throw a this truck so I may just have to get a decent used one.

 

you need to make sure the cooler lines are not blocked.
unhook the line at the rear of the trans and have someone start the engine for a couple seconds to see if atf pumps out the rear line.if it doesn't then unhook the front line and try there to see if it's pumping out.if it is,then this means the cooler(s) are plugged.

yes.skip the 1989 though.
the 90-94 will work,but would require you to use the newer 95-97 solenoid pack.for diesel's the changed 4 to 6 bolt converters too,but not sure about gas engines.you need to keep it matched with whatever you have now (4 or 6 bolt.)
preferably you'll score a 95+ e40d as the earlier ones (if not reman) didn't have many of the upgrades.
a 4r100 (which is just a renamed updated e40d when they finally "fixed" the trans once and for all-mostly.sadly they introduced a few weak points not present in earlier years....so close lol.) will swap in as well.again with your year range S pack,your shift linkage,and the older F5 front pump (research about the converters.don't know anything about stall differences for gas engines,nor bolt count.)

but don't jump to any conclusions.many of these trans have been pulled for remans/replacements only to discover they still shared the same symptoms when installed in the same truck.many of the issues (the vast majority) are all on the truck side with most of these issues electrical/sensor related.

when a mechanic says there are lots of shavings in the pan,it's important to see them yourself or clearly ask what color they were.the black material around the magnet is normal disc ware and shouldn't be too alarming.however anything clearly resembling a shiny metal is never a good sign.if you see this,the trans is not long for this world.

 

They did say there was a lot of nasty black stuff in there. Ok I am confused if atf pumps out of the lines then the cooler is plugged? Or if atf comes out of the lines does that mean it's working properly? I thought radiator fluid cooled the engine? If it helps any the engine dies when I go from reverse to drive sometimes.