Update.

Well, it's finally over. It's been an interesting few months, but it's fixed, I paid significantly less than what a shop would have had to take, and I learned that auto transmissions aren't really that complicated, once you figure out what does what. You really get in touch with a micrometer and a press, but it's been quite the learning experience for me.

I've put about 300 miles on so far, and everything works as advertised. My temps are about 160F, and I get positive locking and unlocking of the converter (albeit at the command of the PCM in its infinite wisdom, or rather lack thereof).

All in all, with all of the research and work I've put in, I've ended up with something that is much better than what I had, and am thankful it didn't cost me an arm and a leg. As said before, the new torque converter I had installed in place of the failing 220k mile stock converter ended up being the culprit as originally thought, but I ended up upgrading and rebuilding a bunch of components in the meantime, as I had so much time on my hands to do it whist waiting for the result of the tests being performed on the warrantied converter. So, here's what I did, hopefully curing this thing for good.

1. Replaced the failed single disk S/D torque converter with billet triple disk unit from Florida Torque Converter under their 3/36 warranty. Very helpful staff who threw me a gigantic discount on the upgrade due to the rare failure. The failure was of the kevlar clutch disk itself. The kevlar lost its bond to the plate, resulting in a surface that was unable to attain the friction required to lock the converter. (Original cost = $259, upgrade $200). Floridatorque assumes the converter clutch had a manufacturing defect and full replacement (with upgrade in my case) was honored.

2. Installed a "Superior KE4OD-V" shift kit. This kit extensively modifies the valve body and pump with an assortment of springs, drill bits for orifice enlargement and passage linking, valves and press fit orifices. After driving the truck for the past two days for a total of 300 miles, I have noticed firmer (not rough), quicker shifts with positive engagement. (Cost = $60)

3. Upgraded to 3/8 transmission cooler lines with my existing tru-cool MAX and a new radiator w/trans cooler. I installed all of the correct fittings (including the $33 3/8" anti-drainback valve at the rear of the transmission) and new metal and rubber lines. (Cost = $80)

4. Tore down and inspected transmission internals. After much measuring and close inspection, I chose to reuse the existing clutches and steels as they spec'd perfectly fine. I suspected this transmission had been rebuilt very recently upon tear down, so I installed a seal kit to renew the rubber parts of the transmission and applies copious amounts of transmission assembly lube to everything that required it. (Cost = $60)

5. New pump gears, converter bushing and viton seal. The initial diagnosis from the dealer came up with low pump pressure, I confirmed with my own gauge. This was again confirmed upon inspection of the pump gears, as scoring was found trhoughout. The unmodified (by TSB) converter bushing was deeply gouged and lacked the proper notch in the area of the drain and the bushing was NOT staked. I modified my case, adding two notches to the outer surface as I think (along with many others, including the makers of the shift kit) that the bushing should be staked from the outer surface. I also notched the area of the bushing surrounding the drain hole (which I drilled to 5/16" from 1/4" to speed the draining process) to alleviate the "converter seal blowout" issues associated with the E4OD. (Cost = $40 and a coarse rat tail file) FYI; don't buy the NAPA converter (pump body) bushing. There is a "break" in the bushing for expansion and NAPA put the split near the area where staking is done. Needless to say, they are worthless.

6. Installed a manual override for the converter clutch to "assist" the ridiculous decisions the PCM makes at times. (Cost = $5)

7. 2" Body lift. This was an influential part of this project. Not only did this make life easier in the removal of the transmission, it made other things that weren't accessible, easily removable, such as the 3" downpipe. No reason to disassemble the pipe anymore.

8. New filter and Mercon III fluid. Self explanatory. ($100)

9. Snap-on MT2500. All I can say is that this unit assisted plenty in the troubleshooting phase and has given my PSD a clean bill of health in cylinder contribution and buzz tests. ($120 - ebay).

 

Wow, sounds like you fixed it up right and did a fair amount of learning in the process. Glad to hear you're back on the road.

 

And you stole that MT2500. With the right key/cables/etc., they usu. run $250-300 or more, even on eBay.

 

Update!

It's been about 12,000 miles since I've done this and the trans operates as it should. I've upgraded to a much larger and heavier 5th wheel, which warranted a ring and pinion change, but the trans still holds strong! Towing 14K down the interstate at about 65 yields about 170 degrees. I've towed up some pretty steep grades and have only seen 200 degrees max.

Also, if any of you install the KE4OD-V shift kit, put in the "intermediate" shift springs. I used the "extreme" springs and it shifts so hard sometimes under load that I feel like it could bust a u-joint.