Ok, I need some insight here.

Got the MT2500 today and went through all tests. The torque converter is definitely not locking. After all of the KOEO and KEOR tests, switch tests and everything, all I get is a P0475 for my unplugged EPBV. I test drove it and watched the transmission data and found the ecu commanding the torque converter to lock, but it's not locking. The funny thing is that the P1725 isn't coming back now and the OD light has stopped blinking.

When I did the switch test, a couple codes appeared, but I think I am not doing something right. I'm getting P1536 for parking brake circuit and 09229 for the Pedal circuit fault but it is working fine from what I can tell as the ecu sees a change when I drive it and the ecu is commanding the converter to lock.

My question is, where do I go from here? I'm thinking right away to pull the pan and check for converter clutch material. If that isn't the case, what should I do then? Is there a way to test the solenoid pack? I have a 12v power supply that could be used to actuate solenoids. Could the transmission pump be at fault? The converter gives no indication of even attempting to lock.

EDIT: another thing, right away when I plugged in the scanner, I selected "review codes" and it gave me a powertrain control module failure" but instantly went away.

More small facts, transmission has a fresh fluid change with about 1200 miles on new fluid. I used Dex III/Merc. The converter has about 3000 miles on it and is a performance rebuild unit from www.floridatorque.com, it is their "SD" converter.

Other than the lack of converter lockup, the trans operates perfectly. It shift when commanded and exhibits no indication of slippage coming from clutches/steels.

 

When you apply the parking brake, does the dash light come on? When you release it, does the dash light go off?

Can you set the MT2500 to read the status (0/1) of the parking brake switch?

 

I didn't notice. I will check tomorrow.

Edit: would this affect torque converter operation?

 

Anyone have a E4OD troubleshooting/wiring diagram for the solenoid pack? I'm sure this is what the problem is. The ECU is commanding the converter to lock, but it's not even attempting to do so.

 

I believe that any brake issue will cause the TC to not lock up. If the computer see any sign of brakes being applied the TC should not lock up...

I had a bad wiring on a trailer once and the TC would not lock up

But I am no expert by a long shot...Just bored sitting here.....LOL


Never mind....I just read the above

 

Id send a PM to Mark Kowalsky, he is an expert tranny engineer.

 

Since its going to be 70 degrees here in VA today, I'm going to attempt some troubleshooting. Anyone have a wiring diagram they could send me? I'm having trouble finding one.

 

Check all brake lights even third that all work correctly. and all bulbs work.

i am noot sure but if pcm is commanding then if the signal is getting to the trans its solenoid or clutch again. hopefully nate stops in.he always bas the linjk to the shop manual.

 

Well, my suspicions are confirmed. I connected the manual TCC switch into they system. With KOEO, with my wife cycling cycling the switch, I can hear the solenoid clicking in the pan. I went for a test drive, switched the lock to on, nothing. Stop at an intersection, switch on against brakes, very slight bump in rpm. Return switch to off, slight bump again. I have a bad torque converter apply piston.

Damn.

I'm getting tired of this. Brand new converter failed, again. I really think this E4OD likes to get a suntan sometimes.

 

I'm no expert, but he's my story.

About 2 months ago I hooked up a trailer and towed 30 miles.

Unhooked trailer and shut truck off and it sat for about 8 hours - I was at work.

Got in truck and headed home - no TC lock up and OD/off light was blinking

1 - I had a shot bulb on the cab break light - replaed it and that didn't help it.

2 - Also, my brake lights were not working

3 - I switched around the big black relays under the hood and plugged in a trailer plug from another trailer sitting in the yard -

4 - brake lights started working and TC locked up as normal on a test drive

That was a few months back and no issues since - no idea what caused it nor exactly what fixed it

 

Everything works in mine. I can watch the ECM command the converter to lock with my MT2500 so I know that part is working. I verified that there is 5v at the plug on the trans, and I tested the solenoid via a ground switch connected under the master cylinder to the purple/yellow wire. Solenoid clicks as it should and I can see a slight bump in rpm when I manually lock the converter with it in gear against the brakes. It's just not able to apply the clutch due to a suspected crack in the apply piston. That is all it can be. The converter clutch is made of kevlar, and is new (under 4k miles ).

Getting it replaced under warranty for Florida torque converters, I just have to get it out now.

 

A little update....

Removed the transmission and sent off the warrantied torque converter for testing. I decided to freshen up the transmission a bit while I have it on the ground and here's what I've found (or didn't find).

1. Converter seal flanged area where seal is pressed into the pump was damaged from what looks like prying from a screwdriver. Leak didn't come from there but I'll be looking to correct that somehow. New Viton seal ready to be installed.

2. The pump housing bushing was installed incorrectly (the oil "valley" was at the 3 o'clock position instead of 6 o'clock. It was gouged also, where the converter would rest in it. I also found the "valley" in the bushing to be clogged up with what could only be described as burned plastic. I've replaced the bushing.

3. Pump gears slightly scored. I replaced them as they were only $24.

4. The transmission has never been modified, so I decided to. I installed a Superior KE4OD-V shift kit that made several pump and valve body modifications. I performed all of the "extreme duty" modifications as explained in the included instructions.

5. Removed and tested each individual solenoid in the pack. All good. Cleaned and blew out passages, nothing found clogged.

6. Blew out all TCC related passages in the case. Nothing clogged.

7. Replaced MLPS, old one was cracked.

8. Installed the "RV" 3/8 transmission cooler return check valve (at $33, ouch!), and fabbed up a 3/8 pressure side adapter to increase the size of the cooling lines to 3/8. Installed 3/8 adapters in my radiator and tru-cool max to support the system better. I was going to install the 4R100 3/8 kit with the bypass tube, but that's $150 and my rig totaled $80, including all of the 3/8 tubing hand hose associated with the upgrade.

I'm hoping the manufacturer of the converter comes back with a failed TCC piston (I'm sure of it as nothing else gave indication of failure or impending failure other than the lack of locking action of the converter.

 

Called the converter manufacturer today and they have determined that the converter was at fault. They said the kevlar on the disk has separated and warrants replacement. Fortunately for me, I caught it when I did and it didn't spread trash throughout the transmission. They offered me a replacement, or for $200 more (a total of $459) a billet triple disk converter. I opted for the triple. More to follow.

 

Wow good to hear they stood behind there product.

 

FYI; I purchased it from Florida Torque Converter . Very nice people that are very helpful.