I want to replace the fuel door with a locking version. I researched previous threads (all a bit dated) and found the following two choices still available:



These appear to be the same unit, first from AMI, second from All-Sales. Are they really the same thing?

For those that have used one, how do they install onto the truck? They claim to need no drilling, but the outside lip sure looks like a bunch of screws to attach! Not sure how to remove the existing door mechanism either.

My truck is white, with the standard black trim on bumpers, mirror housings, weather stripping, so I was going to just get the black fuel door, but wondering how the black holds up over time with the sun light. Any fading occurring?

 

I have one of those. It installs rather quickly. No drilling. I think All Sales & AMI are the same unit.
On an older one that I had, the lock mech, needed regular lubrication. The lock isn't exactly 'outdoor' rated. Other than that, my last two SD's had/have them and like the fit & finish.

 

You might want to consider this option. It does mean drilling a hole and filing the hole to the correct shape. For $6 - $8 bucks for me it was a no brainer and IMHO looks a lot better than a big slab of chrome (or black). The AMI (or other brand) also appears to make the fuel door opening smaller making access to the fuel and DEF caps less convenient. I don't have one so others that do will have to comment on access. I used a weather resistant cam lock from McMaster Carr, p/n 13105A71. Looks almost factory and works great. Good luck with whatever you choose.

Locking fuel caps/doors - cheap solutions - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Locking DEF cap - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

www.mcmaster.com

www.camlock.com

 

what does the lock cam hook to?

 

The body opening. That lip behind the door.

 

I went with the chrome AMI locking door. I did purchase a better lock with a round key for it. The lock that comes with it is a industry standard CH751 RV lock. Real Cheap

 

Exactly what I did. Quick, cheap, secure, looks great.

 

I did the same thing except I sanded and painted the metal finish the same color as the truck.

I'll also note that neither solution will stop vandalism, but IF the truck is vandalized the insurance company will cover the cost to fix any damage. As a bonus if someone prys to door open I will see it before I start the truck.

 

Good point. Glad you mentioned this. Although I would have realized it if that were to happen it's good to put it out there for others to consider when deciding what to do. Thanks

Anyone with the AMI type door have any comments on fuel and DEF cap access through what appears to be a smaller opening?

 

Did you use the long straight cam (and did it require shortening or bending?) or one of the offset choice? I was going to check out the local locksmith shop, and they may not have the same size cams available.

I guess I can try drilling the hole first, and if I screw it up, then order the replacement AMI door

Should the hole be round, or should if have the flat spot in it for rotational strength ( my RV cam locks all have the flat spot in the hole, and they all use the CH-751 key that apparently AMI uses also).

 

The Lock from McMaster comes with a 2 3/4" Lg. × 5/8" Wd. straight cam (can be cut to size), two 1 5/16" Lg. × 5/8" Wd. offset reversible cams (not used), a cylinder nut, mounting screw with washer, trim washer and two indexing washers for 90° and 180° operation.

I started by covering the fuel door with painters tape to avoid unwanted scratches. Unlike another poster on a different forum, I did not remove the door from the truck. I marked a spot on the vertical center of the door and 1-3/4" from the right edge. Also unlike the other post, I did not have access to a mill so I drilled a 1/2" hole using a step drill and made the hole the right size and shape using a Dremel tool. The McMaster lock has flats on opposite sides (two flats). I drew an outline of the oblong hole shape on the tape as a guide so I didn't remove too much material left or right. With that done, I applied some primer gray paint from the local hardware store and touchup paint I ordered from my dealer to the bare metal edges of the hole.

I didn't like the looks of the trim washer so I didn't use it. Partly because I thought it would scratch the paint as the nut was tightened but mostly because I thought it was ugly and made the lock look too big. I applied a little Loctite Blue to the lock threads, put it through the hole and tightened the nut. Don't use Loctite red. You'll never get it off again.

The 2 3/4" Lg. × 5/8" Wd. straight cam is the one you will use. No bending or shaping is required. Cut it to 1-1/2" long (end to end) and file one corner round or at least to a 45° angle. I didn't file both corners partly out of laziness (one corner doesn't need to be rounded) and partly thinking the extra material would provide extra strength although I doubt it makes much difference. I used the 90° indexing washer. You can decide which you like best. The index washer gets mounted between the lock cylinder and the cam. It's function is to limit how far the key turns from stop to stop. So final assembly is lock cylinder (mounted on fuel door) > Index washer > Cam > Lock washer > Screw. You should be good to go from there.

You may wish to cut the cam a bit longer and adjust the length as needed to compensate for differences between my measurements and where you actually make your hole. You can always remove a little more material but it's hard to make it longer.

I don't have any pictures but if I did, they would look very much like this: Locking fuel caps/doors - cheap solutions . He used the trim ring (I didn't) and his cam is rounded on both corners probably because it came that way and was already the correct length although I don't believe that lock is weather resistant. The McMaster lock has a small flap internally that covers the key slot to help keep grit and grime out. I would guess weather resistant locks should be available at your local locksmith or hardware store. Also, what I've written here is for the cam lock from McMaster. Other locks may be similar but my write-up may not apply.

Sorry for the long-winded reply. I hope it answers your question.

I have a question: If all RV locks use the CH-751 key then does that mean anyone with a RV and/or a CH-751 key can open any storage door on any RV (or fuel door on my truck had I used one of those locks?)? If so, then I'm glad I didn't use an RV lock. I'm asking not to be a smart a__ but because I don't own an RV and I'm not familiar with RV locks in general or the CH-751 key specifically.

 

Short Answer: Yes

 

Thanks for the complete write up. I'm going to give this a try in the next few weeks.

I have owned 6 different trailers from 4 different manufacturers built over a 20 year period and they all used the same CH-751 key for all the compartment doors. The main entry door is more unique, but not the compartments. The only exception I have ever seen is 200K+ class A motorhomes, which use a barrel key. In short, change the locks if you are worried about theft!

 

Just went to my local Grainger store, they have the weather resistant cam locks in stock. This may be a good option for those of you like me that want instant gratification, and don't want to wait for to order to be delivered . Comes with the same three cam types, long straight one will need to be cut down as described in the above posting.

CCL Weather Resistant Cam Lock 5/8 in - File Cabinet and Cam Locks - 6NVL0|62217 - Grainger Industrial Supply