Block Heater
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 119
Likes: 2
From: Calgary, Alberta
I'm thinking that you need to make sure that your batteries and charging system are in order first. I know that you said that you replaced them last year but if your charging system is not up to snuff that will effect the batteries. Batteries that are marginal seem to work fine until a cold snap hits and then you find out they are toast.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
busy day. didn't plug the truck in last night and this morning it started right up. Will be checking the battery terminals and clean them. maybe just a hiccup. I might try changing oils on the next change. I'm also going to plug her in early in the morning as I did the last time and see if it happens again. At least I can then rule out a few things at this point if it happens again. keep you posted.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,072
Likes: 243
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
ok Good Feedback
You can get a Battery Hydrometer for cheap $5 and test each Battery Cell separately
Its very accurate
Anything is Possible I guess but plugging in the Block heater shouldn't drain batterys Especially if you are plugging into a GFCI Protected outlet
You can get a Battery Hydrometer for cheap $5 and test each Battery Cell separately
Its very accurate
Anything is Possible I guess but plugging in the Block heater shouldn't drain batterys Especially if you are plugging into a GFCI Protected outlet
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
After I experienced the problem, I plugged in my shop vac to test my cord. Found that the cord my have been bad. When I uplugged the cord, the ground prong stayed in the outlet. I am going to purchase a new cord and plug her back in to check to ensure this was the issue. It may also been that I didn't close one of my doors completely and with the cold and the amount of volts pulled from the batteries at start up, it may have just been too much. Everything seems to be ok with my batteries and charging system since I have not plugged the truck in since this problem and I haven't had any issues with starting the truck. Even that day I came to work and when I went out to start her up to go home for lunch, it started right up. I think that I may have just drained my batteries by not closing one of my doors, but I would like to confirm that by plugging her back in.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
should not increase. That point is dependent on outside temps,wind and a
few other things.
But the point is once you reach the equilibrium of heat input Vs heat loss.
That will be the limiting factor.
Sean
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Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 5
From: Pennsylvania
Using either of my outdoor outlets will result in a tripped breaker. Had to use an outlet in the garage and run the cord under the garage door.
I'll usually plug it in when it gets in the forties or below. Not because the truck is difficult to start though. My thinking is, better fuel mileage, easier on the engine first few miles of driving, and heat in the cab sooner.
I'll usually plug it in when it gets in the forties or below. Not because the truck is difficult to start though. My thinking is, better fuel mileage, easier on the engine first few miles of driving, and heat in the cab sooner.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Felix4,
Do you have a good DMM that will do M Ohm?
Check the plug on the truck ground pin should
give you almost 0 ohms the 2 power pins to
ground should read as open. If not that is why
you are tripping the GFCI.
You only need about 390 Ma to trip a GFCI breaker.
What happens is some corrosion will bridge the
pins at the plug or the heater and give a path to ground.
The other thing that can happen is a tiny pin hole in the
element's jacket will leak current to the water jacket
and then to ground.
It really would be a good idea to check this plug.
The test I gave you will find most sources of current
leakage.
You would not want to have the truck plugged in and
have a bad ground. If that happened and then someone
with wet feet of standing in water put there hand on
the truck body they could get a shock. Mind that
this is only if all the things fall into place at the same time.
And yes I have gotten bit once that way. It was a little bite
but a bite none the less and it hurt.
Sean
Do you have a good DMM that will do M Ohm?
Check the plug on the truck ground pin should
give you almost 0 ohms the 2 power pins to
ground should read as open. If not that is why
you are tripping the GFCI.
You only need about 390 Ma to trip a GFCI breaker.
What happens is some corrosion will bridge the
pins at the plug or the heater and give a path to ground.
The other thing that can happen is a tiny pin hole in the
element's jacket will leak current to the water jacket
and then to ground.
It really would be a good idea to check this plug.
The test I gave you will find most sources of current
leakage.
You would not want to have the truck plugged in and
have a bad ground. If that happened and then someone
with wet feet of standing in water put there hand on
the truck body they could get a shock. Mind that
this is only if all the things fall into place at the same time.
And yes I have gotten bit once that way. It was a little bite
but a bite none the less and it hurt.
Sean
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 344
Likes: 5
From: Pennsylvania
Felix4,
Do you have a good DMM that will do M Ohm?
Check the plug on the truck ground pin should
give you almost 0 ohms the 2 power pins to
ground should read as open. If not that is why
you are tripping the GFCI.
You only need about 390 Ma to trip a GFCI breaker.
What happens is some corrosion will bridge the
pins at the plug or the heater and give a path to ground.
The other thing that can happen is a tiny pin hole in the
element's jacket will leak current to the water jacket
and then to ground.
It really would be a good idea to check this plug.
The test I gave you will find most sources of current
leakage.
You would not want to have the truck plugged in and
have a bad ground. If that happened and then someone
with wet feet of standing in water put there hand on
the truck body they could get a shock. Mind that
this is only if all the things fall into place at the same time.
And yes I have gotten bit once that way. It was a little bite
but a bite none the less and it hurt.
Sean
Do you have a good DMM that will do M Ohm?
Check the plug on the truck ground pin should
give you almost 0 ohms the 2 power pins to
ground should read as open. If not that is why
you are tripping the GFCI.
You only need about 390 Ma to trip a GFCI breaker.
What happens is some corrosion will bridge the
pins at the plug or the heater and give a path to ground.
The other thing that can happen is a tiny pin hole in the
element's jacket will leak current to the water jacket
and then to ground.
It really would be a good idea to check this plug.
The test I gave you will find most sources of current
leakage.
You would not want to have the truck plugged in and
have a bad ground. If that happened and then someone
with wet feet of standing in water put there hand on
the truck body they could get a shock. Mind that
this is only if all the things fall into place at the same time.
And yes I have gotten bit once that way. It was a little bite
but a bite none the less and it hurt.
Sean
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 6
From: Eastern PA
This happened to me last fall. Ended up being the batteries, which took the alternator with them. Aging batteries can be fine when it's warm out, but as soon as the temp drops, they die. Check the water in them at minimum.
At a quarter of a million miles, I only plug in when it gets to 20ish, though I run 5w-40 oil in the winter, so it'll be less viscous and less work to crank. The way the weather has been looking, our temps are gradually going down, so I should have a good month or two before I have to plug in.
I do wish the cord on the heater was a little longer though.
At a quarter of a million miles, I only plug in when it gets to 20ish, though I run 5w-40 oil in the winter, so it'll be less viscous and less work to crank. The way the weather has been looking, our temps are gradually going down, so I should have a good month or two before I have to plug in.
I do wish the cord on the heater was a little longer though.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Nothing but a heating element. If it has a thermostat it's microscopically small and hidden VERY well.