Any Suggestions? HELP!
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Turlock
Any Suggestions? HELP!
Ok, its been a wile since I've been on the forums, been busy working on my truck 
. Anyways, this past 4 days I've been working on the engine (took a break on bodywork) today wile I was removing the right (passengers) exhaust manifold one damn screw ended up breaking 
, the first ones were easy until i got to the last 2, at fist it seemed like it was getting loose, since I managed to give it 3 turns until i heard a "squeak" and it broke... 
, whats the best way to remove it? The second to last one was hard as well, and compared to the first 6 it was slightly rusted.
Would this method work:
*Small torch, heat it and let it cool down constantly
*Using a drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the screw
*Spray a shi* load of WD-40
*Use a Spiral screw extractor kit
^if kit doesn't work what will? this has never happened to me before, keep using a larger drill bit and re-thread??
Thanks!
. Anyways, this past 4 days I've been working on the engine (took a break on bodywork) today wile I was removing the right (passengers) exhaust manifold one damn screw ended up breaking , the first ones were easy until i got to the last 2, at fist it seemed like it was getting loose, since I managed to give it 3 turns until i heard a "squeak" and it broke... , whats the best way to remove it? The second to last one was hard as well, and compared to the first 6 it was slightly rusted.Would this method work:
*Small torch, heat it and let it cool down constantly
*Using a drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the screw
*Spray a shi* load of WD-40
*Use a Spiral screw extractor kit
^if kit doesn't work what will? this has never happened to me before, keep using a larger drill bit and re-thread??
Thanks!
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
1) "If" you have access to a welder, weld a nut on the end of it. Never had this fail.
2) Drill as mentioned using left twist drill bits. A lot of times the bit will catch and back the bolt out. If not, the hole gets drilled out enough to retap.
3) If you ever break off an EZ-out, you will never use them again. Then you must pull the head and a machine shop will rarely even fool with it. Good luck.
2) Drill as mentioned using left twist drill bits. A lot of times the bit will catch and back the bolt out. If not, the hole gets drilled out enough to retap.
3) If you ever break off an EZ-out, you will never use them again. Then you must pull the head and a machine shop will rarely even fool with it. Good luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,144
Likes: 0
From: Sedro-Woolley, WA
This just happened to me on my 65/390. The #2,3 and 4 top exhaust manifold bolts galled and bound tight. I took an old el cheapo 9/16" box end wrench and welded a flat bar extension on it. After a couple days of soaking with WD40 I was able to get numbers 2 and 4 out by holding pressure on the wrench and tapping it with a hammer.
Not so much for #3. I tried heat but these thing go through so many heat cycles that they work harden and heat won't always have enough effect on a bound thread.
Finally I got impatient and snapped it off.
Long story short there was no room to work on it there in the engine compartment so I just pulled the head, set it up in the drill press and drilled through the center.
Still bound too tight for the Easyout, I ended up cutting the bolt up with the torch and picking the pieces out.
The threads survived unscathed so I chased them and put the head back on.
Moral of the story is take flaresidemarty's advice and let someone else get paid to deal with it.
Not so much for #3. I tried heat but these thing go through so many heat cycles that they work harden and heat won't always have enough effect on a bound thread.
Finally I got impatient and snapped it off.
Long story short there was no room to work on it there in the engine compartment so I just pulled the head, set it up in the drill press and drilled through the center.
Still bound too tight for the Easyout, I ended up cutting the bolt up with the torch and picking the pieces out.
The threads survived unscathed so I chased them and put the head back on.
Moral of the story is take flaresidemarty's advice and let someone else get paid to deal with it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,417
Likes: 32
+1 on welding a nut to the stud. Works most of the time.
Also put anti sieze on the bolts when you go back toghether. Anti sieze has got to be the most under used chemical that will save your *** later down the road. With use of anti sieze I've had all 8 of the notorious FE exhaust bolts damn near hand thread out after breaking the torque.
Also put anti sieze on the bolts when you go back toghether. Anti sieze has got to be the most under used chemical that will save your *** later down the road. With use of anti sieze I've had all 8 of the notorious FE exhaust bolts damn near hand thread out after breaking the torque.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
X2 on Neversieze. I use the nickle version.
If all else fails, drill out the broken bolt and use Heli-coils or other brand of threaded inserts.
These "can" be done with the head installed but it is much, much easier to do it with the head sittin' on the bench. A drill press comes in handy too, but a hand drill will work.
If the head is still on the truck, more than likely you'll need to use a right angle drill.
If all else fails, drill out the broken bolt and use Heli-coils or other brand of threaded inserts.
These "can" be done with the head installed but it is much, much easier to do it with the head sittin' on the bench. A drill press comes in handy too, but a hand drill will work.
If the head is still on the truck, more than likely you'll need to use a right angle drill.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,895
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I was replacing my manifold gaskets on my supercab and broke the first 2 bolts in a row.. well being away from a torch I hopped in the truck and ran her hard to town and back and the rest eased out easy as could be.. I got lucky because after I slid the manifold off there was an inch of stud for me to bite with the vice grips.. good luck
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Turlock
Thanks guys for all the help, unfortunately for me the stud is about 5 mm inside the head, so welding a nut into it won't work.. the engine isn't on the truck anymore its sitting on a crappy Duralast 750 pounds engine stand 
, I just hope the $20 engine stand I bought from my friend holds up.. I did remove the head, if everything fails ill have some one else work on it.
, I just hope the $20 engine stand I bought from my friend holds up.. I did remove the head, if everything fails ill have some one else work on it.
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