Broken Manifold Studs
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2015
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Broken Manifold Studs
Hey guys, i know we have all been through this a time or two. When trying to remove the manifold from the 351W i am building i broke a few of the studs. I tried my best not too. I was using my Snap-On 18v Impact. A couple of them are sticking out past the head a lil bit so i am gonna attempt to weld a nut on so i can get a wrench on there. Any other suggestions? Or is the drill and tap method my most efficient route?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 8
From: NC Mountains
Try a mapp gas torch to get them hot and grab them with vise grips and wiggle back and forth. Spray with PB Blaster or some other good penetrating oil while still pretty warm. Repeat a few times. Tapping lightly with a hammer for a few minutes will break rust bonds too. Any way you slice it, it sucks. Good luck.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 585
Likes: 11
Drilling and tapping is always a last resort for me. As long as part of the bolt is still sticking out I'll make every attempt to remove the bolt first before risking damage by drilling off center. If they're broken off flush or down inside the hole you have no other choice though.
I've had the best luck with heat and penetrating oil. Carefully work it back and forth a little at a time until it breaks free.
I've had the best luck with heat and penetrating oil. Carefully work it back and forth a little at a time until it breaks free.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,772
Likes: 441
i agree with rowdy...drilling is a pain in the *** when you dont have a bench and a press to work with. trying to angle drill on the heads with low visibility and poor access will make you lose your mind...
welding a nut on can be successful, still use lots of penetrant. heating is ok as long as you dont get crazy, cast iron doesnt stand up well to excessive amounts.
sounds like a great time to pull the heads and get some gt40 or gt40ps.
welding a nut on can be successful, still use lots of penetrant. heating is ok as long as you dont get crazy, cast iron doesnt stand up well to excessive amounts.
sounds like a great time to pull the heads and get some gt40 or gt40ps.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2015
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lol i think you are right '89. Been considering aluminum but just wanna get the motor in and running before i do anything thats gonna slow the process more. I am a machinist so i have access too anything and everything i could ever need.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,168
Likes: 3
From: South Central,MO
Weld a washer to it first and then weld on the nut. The welding not only heats the stud, it also draws it in on itself loosening it up a bit. Be gentle with the wrench at first working it back and forth, don't just try and torque it out the first time. Even if it takes 2 or 3 or 4 times, still WAY better than drilling!
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,168
Likes: 3
From: South Central,MO
Use plenty of hi-temp anti-seize when you go back with the new bolts. You may have to re-tighten them a couple of times, but you will thank yourself in the future.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
Weld a washer to it first and then weld on the nut. The welding not only heats the stud, it also draws it in on itself loosening it up a bit. Be gentle with the wrench at first working it back and forth, don't just try and torque it out the first time. Even if it takes 2 or 3 or 4 times, still WAY better than drilling!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: South Central,MO
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