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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Breaker points continuity

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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 03:29 PM
  #16  
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Helpful advice, thank you
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by truckpastor
That's what I thought. The base of the point grounds to the distributor housing if I'm looking at it right with a braided wire. And the negative leads, condenser get juice from coil. So if I am getting continuity with points open and closed...I've got a short/grounding issue. Maybe my wire braid is rubbing against something it shouldn't? I know about electronic points but I'm stubborn about getting it running before upgrading too much
The condensor (really a capacitor) will look like a circuit to your digital multi-meter. You do need to check that the points are opening and closing the coil circuit, but you'll probably have to unhook the condensor to make it look like a normal switch to the meter. For the test, the points should basically be the only thing in the circuit with you meter.

Dan
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by old_dan
The condensor (really a capacitor) will look like a circuit to your digital multi-meter. ...

Dan
But it shouldn't have continuity? If it does, it's clearly bad
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 05:16 PM
  #19  
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Ross,

A discharged capacitor that is attached to ground will look like a path to ground to a digital ohm-meter....for a couple of seconds, then it will charge up and appear to be an open circuit. Unless you have a buzz-box that is a circuit tester that uses an AC current....that will work normally. Also, I haven't been having much luck with the condensers/capacitors that I've been buying lately....it is very possible to have a shorted condenser causing problems.

The best practice is to isolate that points circuit from all of the external features for diagnosis. That way if the screws are shorting out the points it'd show up right away.

Dan
 
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #20  
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an update...i went basic and did continuity test after disconnecting and reconnecting each component

points break there continuity as they should with negative leads connected to coil, condenser connected, but the moment i connect the positive wires from ignition switch to coil, i get this problem where i have continuity all over the points and distributor body even with points open.

working it out
 
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 07:48 PM
  #21  
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I like to use a teat light , not a meter . Like you static time one .
 
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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Are you using an ohmmeter to test for continuity? Or a test probe with a light?

Where are you measuring continuity from, when you are checking the points? Ground?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 08:44 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JWC 3
I like to use a teat light , not a meter . Like you static time one .
I GREATLY prefer teat lights, too!
 
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
I GREATLY prefer teat lights, too!
Yup Should have been test , heck
 
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #25  
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LOL, Just pulling your leg!
 
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 09:31 PM
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I still prefer using a TEST light for these old systems . I sold My 73 VW with 408K on it . I did a lot of point testing and setting over the years ! Now my tractors and my 53 are all I own with points . I still break out the test lamp .
 
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 09:33 PM
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By the way I gave $300 for the Vdub , years later , Sold for $1250 !
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:09 PM
  #28  
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Problem solved! Turns out I have a short in the ignition switch wires going to coil. Replaced with a new wire and it fired right up
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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Glad you got it fixed ! THANKS for posting your fix ! I hate dead threads .
 
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