no pulse, distributor?
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From: KC
no pulse, distributor?
My 63 has been parked for a while, it doesnt have any spark. Ive been chasing different things in the little time that I have but have found no solutions. So far I have put in a new coil, condensor and poionts, battery is a month old, then replaced the condensor and points with a pertronix ignition. I do have voltage at the +coil post. I tried wiring directly from the battery to the +coil and starting it that way but still no spark. Then I hooked a test light to -coil post and turned it over and the test light stayed on so does that mean my distributor is toast. The ground strap from the dist to the -coil post is a good ground. I dont mind replacing the dist if its the source of the problem. But my sanity and my wallet are wearing thin trying to get this sucker back on the road.
Thanks guys,
Nick
Thanks guys,
Nick
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From: Sun River St. George
Rotor caps can crack, the carbon can wear out (or fall out) and the lugs can corrode and burn to the point that they interfere with the spark. Caps should be replaced whenever you replace the plugs. Since this problem seems to be affecting all spark, I'd check the cap, rotor and coil wire. Better just replace that stuff. Is your point gap set at 019 or so? Do the points spark with the key on? Can you make sparks at the coil by opening and closing the points (snapping blue flame) Powerful enough to knock paint off the block or you on your butt?
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From: Colville, Washington
Originally Posted by nick65f100
battery is a month old, then replaced the condensor and points with a pertronix ignition. I do have voltage at the +coil post. I tried wiring directly from the battery to the +coil and starting it that way but still no spark. Then I hooked a test light to -coil post and turned it over and the test light stayed on so does that mean my distributor is toast. The ground strap from the dist to the -coil post is a good ground. I dont mind replacing the dist if its the source of the problem. But my sanity and my wallet are wearing thin trying to get this sucker back on the road.
Thanks guys,
Nick
Thanks guys,
Nick
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From: KC
Thanks Putt, the ground wire from the pertronix is going to the negative coil post. I havent had much time this weekend but I hope to get to her tonight and Ill let you guys know if I find anything.
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From: Sun River St. George
Pertronix! I hate to be the one to suggest this but is it possible that you fryed the module? For now put the points back in as a test. Hmmm! You did bypass the resistor wire and are running 12v to the + on the coil right?
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From: KC
the pertronix was put in after the problems started, I did replace the points and condenser before I put the the pertronix in there. And yeah I did bypass the resistor when wiring up the pertronix. This thing has got me puzzled, is there a way to narrow it down to the distributor or the ignition. I have tried wiring strait to the coil from the battery and that didnt seem to change anything so does that mean that the igniton is not the problem?
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From: Sun River St. George
12v at the + on the coil with the key on. 12v at the + on the coil with the key in the start position. Red wire from ignitor to + on the coil. Black wire from the ignitor to the - on the coil. An ohms check of the pertronix will reveal if it is working, same for the coil. Since the problem started before you installed the pertronix and continued afterwards, I'd look at the rest of the circuit (coil, coil wire, cap, rotor, dist ground or a mechanical failure timing gear or chain).
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From: KC
OK, heres what I cant figure out. The distributor ground strap is grounded, the base plate of the pertronix is grounded, the black wire to the coil from the pertronix is not grounded, why is that? I went ahead and replaced the rotor, and the dist cap, and that didnt seem to help. I did rewire the positive side of the coil to the ignition post so its getting a strong twelve volts, but theres no spark going the distributor lead because the - side of the coil isnt grounded. Hope this helps paint a clearer picture because I have no idea whats going on now (Im a parts changer not a mechanic) and will be taking it to a real mechanic pretty soon if I dont figure it out.
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From: Colville, Washington
The Ignitor black lead only grounds when the magnetic sleeve activates the Ignitor electronics. It will NOT show a steady ground reading. Each time a magnet in the sleeve goes past the Ignitor, it grounds the coil for a moment like the points would. Have you set the air gap as specified? I believe it is .030" between the sleeve and the Ignitor module.
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From: Sun River St. George
Geeze! Just a guess but, did you use the plastic piece (gage) to set the air gap between the pickup and the magnetic sleeve? You did install the sleeve over the distributor cam? Take the plugs out and put them in an oven at 200 degrees for 15 minutes. Wrap them in a paper towel so they don't stink so much. Pull the distributor and take it to your mechanic and have him test the module, air gap and ground circuit. Check the drive gear and pin and test the coil. While this is going on put the battery on a charger for 24 hours on low charge. Clean the battery cables (both ends) and do the same for the starter cable. Drain the fuel and put in a few gallons of fresh fuel. Check the oil level (it may be diluted with fuel).
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