So I recently completed an E4OD to ZF swap. Truck has been running great for about a month.

Over the weekend, I go out to start it - nothing. No crank, no click, no rattle. I thought the battery was bad.

[Side note: My truck has an issue with the key switch where it can turn slightly with the key out, causing the key minder to activate. I think this system is still active with the door closed - this will drain the battery the same as if an interior light was left on.]

I put a trickle charger on the battery for about 2 hours. Try again - no difference.

I come in to research the issue, and remember the trick where you can start the truck by putting a conductor between the two starter relay posts.



So I try that, and VROOM the truck instantly starts.

I pulled off the small wire on the relay, apply 12v from the battery - truck starts again.

I put positive lead from my multimeter inside the connector of the small wire (disconnected from the relay) and the the negative lead to the negative battery terminal and attempted to start the truck with the key. The multimeter didn't register any voltage.

I've also visually inspected all fuses under the hood. I did not check the starter fuse inside the cab fuse panel

To me, this eliminates the high current side of things. The relay seems fine, the starter and the solenoid still work also since the engine will crank.

I still have the MLPS / neutral safety switch wiring under the truck from the E4OD. It's verified to be in Neutral, and I also tried a second MLPS switch (also set to neutral) - no change with the second MLPS switch.

I disconnected the clutch safety interlock switch, and installed the jumper that my truck had with the E4OD, and no start from the key either.

This makes me think the key switch is going south, especially given my side note above.

Does anyone have a circuit diagram of this wiring and/or any helpful tips on how I can test this?

 

If you're able to start the truck jumping the solenoid, but aren't get anything from turning the key, there's definitely a problem between the tumbler and solenoid. My initial thoughts are that there's a problem in the ignition linkage inside the steering column. You may want to verify that the linkage is fully engaging the ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column. Disconnect the negative battery cable and operate the key while feeling the position of the switch at the bottom of the column. If you have the key turned to start, but the linkage isn't pushed all the way to the bottom of the switch, there's a mechanical problem in the linkage. If it is pushed all the way to the bottom of the switch, there's an electrical problem.

 

Broken actuator? Very common on these trucks.

 

yup, my thoughts as well.
easiest way to tell if it is a bad actuator if you know all the safety switches are good, is to remove the ignition switch from the column and work it with a screwdriver. if it starts, the actuator in top of the column is broke.

 

Thanks guys. Does anyone have pics of the actuator in question? I did take the column out and apart to remove the shifter handle when I did the ZF swap. I could have damaged something when I had it apart.

 

This is the part we are talking about:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Steering-Column-Ignition-Actuator-Pin-NEW-/230595001042?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b0887ad2&vxp=mtr#ht_1099wt_1142

 

nope, that is for the 87 to 91 trucks. he has a 95. different part.

there is a writeup for replacing the 92 and newer actuator somewhere here, i just can't find it .

 

Oh, sorry, I thought they used the same one.

 

So I had some time to work on the column yesterday. I pulled off the plastic cover and removed the lock cylinder. Took a look at it, and put it back in - still no start. I could see the actuator moving in the column, though.

Pulled it back out, then noticed that the inner tumbler (the part that the key slides into) can be separated from the outer section. I slid it out to take a look at it. I saw no broken or worn parts, so I tried to put it back together...

And tried...

And tried...

And tried.

I could not get it back together at all. I fiddled with it for 20 minutes, then a couple of pins and a spring came out, and then it went back together. I put it back in the column and the truck started from the column. I noticed no ill effect from the missing spring and pins. I saw where they went so I can put them back if I need to.

I'll probably just buy a new cylinder if it acts up again. I'd say I didn't put it in right or something when I had it out doing the ZF swap.

 

Did you swap columns or column covers when you did the tranny swap? Those spring/pins sound like they may be either for the little lever you have to flip to turn the key back to LOCK on a manual truck, or for the key/shifter lockout on an automatic truck. Can you turn the key all the way back now without hitting the lever (or does your column even have the lever)?

 

I kept the original column from my automatic truck, but I did remove it and take out the column shifter and its respective shaft that ran down the column.

I also replaced the plastic cover with one from a manual truck, to cover the hole where the auto shifter went.

The key cylinder behaves the same way as it did before. The spring and pins came out of the cylinder assembly:



Mine is probably so worn it doesn't matter anymore.

 

Have you tried starting the truck without the key now, to see if the spring and pin that fell out weren't part of the ignition lock? I'm no expert with the key cylinders, but a spring and pin falling out, then being able to start the truck, sounds like you just made your truck easier to steal...

 

No, it will only start with the key.



In this picture is the lock cylinder assembly. There's an external housing that the tumbler (circled in YELLOW) slides into (circled in RED). The pins that fell out (GREEN) ride between the tumbler and the external housing. I think the spring and pins push the tumbler out horizontally about 1/16" in. when you turn the key through its positions.

I'd advise to NOT disassemble this since it took me a while to get the tumbler back into the housing the correct way.