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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Starting Circuit Problem

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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 04:31 PM
  #1  
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Starting Circuit Problem

I've got an '89 F-250XLT, 2wd, 7.5L-460 V8. Just last week I went out to my truck on my way to work and the battery was dead. No power, no noise, no nothing. Called a buddy over for a jump start, but got nothing but clicking. I had a battery that was smaller then what I should have had, so I decided it was time to buy the right sized battery. Went out and spend $120 on the right sized battery w/ 3 year warranty. Hooked it up and still nothing. Ok, weird. Next I figured t hat maybe the solenoid went bad on me. It's only a $20 part, so I figure what the hell, right? So I go out and buy a new solenoid. Truck starts right up like a champ! 3 days later....today....while out at lunch....truck doesn't start. Truck doesn't make any noise period..same f'n issue, AGAIN! What gives? Solenoid bad again? My small checklist: Truck in park? Check. Battery terminals clean and connections solid? Check. Solenoid hooked up and fully connected? Check. Hmmm... I check to see if I can get any power. Nope. No headlights, no radio, nothing. There has got to be a circuit on somewhere...right?? Any suggestions?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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LynnL
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From: Norman, OK
Have you checked your ignitions switch? The one on top of the steering column?

If you hook up a test lite to the small wire going to the solenoid (clamp end) and use the sharp end on the battery ground (-) it should lite up when you turn your key to start. If it doesn't, you'll probably need to check the wiring at the ign. switch. I've had to put 2 on my truck in the 10 years I've been driving it.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 11:07 AM
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So I went out to the truck with one of those car jumper/charging kits and got the truck to finally turn over. The battery was completly dead, naturally. I left the truck running for about 15-20 mins and I turned it off to see if ithe battery was keeping any charge. Tried to start it again and there was still no power. Hooked the jumper back up, waited 10 mins and tried again. This time the engine hesitated but just wouldn't turn over. I turned it back off and took the keys out. I walked over to the jumper and I was waiting for it to charge up a little more and I noticed that the positive clamp wasn't on the lead all the way, just on the bolt. So I barley touch it to readjust and all of a sudden it sparks for a second and the truck starts trying to turn over! WTF?? I immediatly take the jumpers off and run to turn it off when I realize that the keys are in my pocket and the ignition is in the off position. I put the keys back in the ignition, barely turn it and the truck starts. LOL. Long story short, your right.....it's the ignition switch. I've noticed that it's felt kind of 'stick' recently so it must be on it's way out.

So now that we've established it's the ignition switch, how do I replace it? I've never worked on anything in the steering column before, so I have no clue where to start. Any insight??
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 12:30 PM
  #4  
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alxsnmr
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From: St Louis
This model truck has a nasty issue with the key switch. It takes some diagnosing but either the ignition switch at the base of the column is going bad or a nasty little piece of aluminum that connects the key to the actuating rod of the ignition is about to break. If you have a tilt column it is a PITA to replace, if it isnt a tilt column I have not an idea on how to fix. Easiest way to diagnose is to take the plastic molding off the column where it goes into the dash and use a pair of pliers to manipulate the actuating rod. IF it moves without the key switch moving then you need to fix the actuation rod/key switch under the steering wheel (yes you will have to pull the steering wheel). If it moves with the key switch smoothly and hits the right spots on the ignition switch then it mostlikely is the ignition switch at the base of the column.

Another good idea is to check the nuetral safety switch at the transmission (or clutch if a manual) as this can go bad and cause an open fault in the ignition switch circuit.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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LynnL
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From: Norman, OK
The switch is under the dash on top of the steering column. There is an actuator rod that goes between the keyed tumbler (where you put the key) and the ignition switch (the part on the top of the steering column with about 12 wires coming off of it.) The switch is held on with 2 bolts that are going to need a torx bit (t25 I think) to get the bolts off.

Disconnect battery First!

Pull lower dash panel

(Now the fun part) look under the dash and you will see several bundles of wire. There will be one bundle that will go to a grey plastic connector. The connector will probably have a 7mm bolt right in the middle, but it could just be a clip. This will be connected to an off white/ yellowish box on top of the column.

Once you've found the 2 screws holding it to the column, undo them. The torx bit or socket on a swivel headed 1/4 inch ratchet works pretty good.

You will need to lift the switch up as the end of the actuator rod sticks up from the column and goes in a hole in the bottom of the switch.

Disconnect connector from switch.

Install new switch onto connector and test it. Hook the battery back up, take a smaller screwdriver and put it in the hole in the bottom of the switch. Carefully slide it towards what would be the front of the truck if it was installed. At this point your dash lights should come on and if you slide it all the way to the end it should try to start. It is spring loaded to push it back from the start position. (you can take your old one and see how it moves first if you need to.)

If everything is working, you just reinstall the switch, being careful to get the end of the actuator rod in the hole in the bottom of the switch.

One bit of info, the switch is adjustable. It will usually slide up and down the column about a 1/4 inch or so. If you unhook your battery, put your key in the accessory position and move part under the switch all the way back, then install the switch.

tighten it down, hook the battery back up and try it.

I'd recommend getting a Haynes or chiltons manual. It will go into this in a little more detail and they are really easy to read.

I hope this helps and doesn't confuse you. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 06:29 PM
  #6  
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Ravenwood Ranch
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From: Hanford, CA
Originally Posted by LynnL
The switch is under the dash on top of the steering column. There is an actuator rod that goes between the keyed tumbler (where you put the key) and the ignition switch (the part on the top of the steering column with about 12 wires coming off of it.) The switch is held on with 2 bolts that are going to need a torx bit (t25 I think) to get the bolts off.

Disconnect battery First!

Pull lower dash panel

(Now the fun part) look under the dash and you will see several bundles of wire. There will be one bundle that will go to a grey plastic connector. The connector will probably have a 7mm bolt right in the middle, but it could just be a clip. This will be connected to an off white/ yellowish box on top of the column.

Once you've found the 2 screws holding it to the column, undo them. The torx bit or socket on a swivel headed 1/4 inch ratchet works pretty good.

You will need to lift the switch up as the end of the actuator rod sticks up from the column and goes in a hole in the bottom of the switch.

Disconnect connector from switch.

Install new switch onto connector and test it. Hook the battery back up, take a smaller screwdriver and put it in the hole in the bottom of the switch. Carefully slide it towards what would be the front of the truck if it was installed. At this point your dash lights should come on and if you slide it all the way to the end it should try to start. It is spring loaded to push it back from the start position. (you can take your old one and see how it moves first if you need to.)

If everything is working, you just reinstall the switch, being careful to get the end of the actuator rod in the hole in the bottom of the switch.

One bit of info, the switch is adjustable. It will usually slide up and down the column about a 1/4 inch or so. If you unhook your battery, put your key in the accessory position and move part under the switch all the way back, then install the switch.

tighten it down, hook the battery back up and try it.

I'd recommend getting a Haynes or chiltons manual. It will go into this in a little more detail and they are really easy to read.

I hope this helps and doesn't confuse you. Good luck.
thank you so much, ive had others selling me to do diff things but i tryed yours first figuring if the switch is bad that i would get a new one, but i slid the peice all the way up with the ignition off and now it fires right up, so thanks again
 
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