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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Next question, those bed bolts

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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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Next question, those bed bolts

The rear four came out ok. However, the front four do not want to move on the bolt, the bolt wants to turn. A couple of turns and soon enough the square hole will not be so square.

So what have people done to remove a stubborn bed bolt once the whole bolt starts to move and can it be done by one person. Those four are the only things holding me up as all trim, bumper, tailgate and toolbox are out.

Now I have a spare tailgate for a 72 and spare toolbox for another slick neither which I have.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 09:19 PM
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Your not watching the game
Sawsall, grinder, nut splitter
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...39#post7234639
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:58 PM
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Yep, nut splitter, and if that doesn't work, center punch the top of the bolt head and drill it out. Stage your bits until its the size of the bolt and the head will pop off. Won't hurt the square hole in the bed. I've found that when you get enough drilled out of the head, a center punch will knock it through.

I had one bolt try to turn on me while I was drilling the head. I put vise grips on the nut under the bed and tied off the vise grip handle.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:06 PM
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I tack weld the bolt head to the bed, it can't turn then. After I get the nut off, simply grind away the weld and remove bolt. Never failed on the most difficult bolts....
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:17 PM
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Or... grind a deep slot in the head and hold it with your biggest screwdriver. The bolt will likely break.
Eric
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by schoo
Your not watching the game
Sawsall, grinder, nut splitter
I was in and out but the truck took priority.

Sawsall would be a tough fit. Grind from the bottom another tough fit. Grind the head off maybe but don't want the grinder to hit the bed. I have the stuff to grind off steel but a little miss and you get a rut in something you don't want to get a rut in. Nut splitter would be the ticket to try first.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 09:51 AM
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If I can get to the nut easily enough I will use a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutoff wheel. I have also sliced a side off the nut lengthwise to the bolt with the cutoff wheel.
Another way is with a 1/4" thick wheel on a 4 1/4" grinder. Turn it so the wheel is vertical and dive straight down through center of the head of the head of the bolt. The edges will eventually appear where the square of the shank meets the head while the rest of the head will protect the sheet metal.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 05:02 PM
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Well nut splitter failed miserably. Was not able to get it quite flat enough against the nut so only cut the top half if lucky. So now I'll try to drill them out with successive drill bits on the head.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 10:40 PM
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Torch it off
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 12:01 AM
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weld a nut to the rounded top of the carraige bolt. just a rosette weld in the middle. then put a wrench on the top and remove nut on bottom. wont do much good with out a helper though.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 02:06 AM
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Well one nut came off due to the nut splitter damaging in enough. Two others decided to come off with a screw driver for prying while using the racket. Two were already off so that makes five. As always it is the last one of anything. The bolt was spinning and it hadn't even budged. Tried drilling it out through the top. Pilot hole, two more stepped up sizes, and then the 1/4". That was damaged, the 5/16 was damaged as was the 3/8 damaged. One tough head. Dremel and sliced an X in the top and with some prying was able to break off the four pieces and drop the bolt down. Now it is in the frame since the square head does not fit the round hole This was the driver's middle above the shock bracket and emergency brake bracket so hard to get anything at.
 
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