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50 Cent mod... forget that after repeated failure . I invented my own "double hole mod"
You can see that there just about the same size, if anything they fit better then the quarter did
The washer isnt much thicker then the quarter is but its just thick enough that there is no doubt in my mind this should eliminated my problem for good. It is a much tighter fit then the quarter was
You say nothing is broken and nothing's out of place when using quarters.
You do realize that your problem IS NOT connector retention and you WILL have a terminal continuity failure again, and again, and again as long as you keep NOT fixing the problem, right?
You say nothing is broken and nothing's out of place when using quarters.
You do realize that your problem IS NOT connector retention and you WILL have a terminal continuity failure again, and again, and again as long as you keep NOT fixing the problem, right?
Every time it has been the connector backing off just a slight bit because the quarter wasnt putting quite enough pressure to hold it in place. I have "fixed" the problem twice using quarters with epic fail both times. This "should" solve my problem.
While I was in there I pulled all electrical connections apart but not before I made sure they were tight. All seemed to be in good shape with no evident burn marks. If I have the problem again, Ill fix it again. If it is terminal continuity and everything seems to be in check that Ive look at where should I start looking then? And what would be fixing the problem right?
Last edited by JOHN2001; Oct 6, 2013 at 06:12 PM.
Reason: blah
this sounds like a bad vch i had a 99 250 i was working on, it started to run bad, i did the .50 on it it worked for a week, did the same thing for the next 3 weeks i pulled and checked ever wire from the idm to the injectors could not find a thing wrong. put new vch uvch on it and 2 months later it has run like new. for what ever reason the idm could reach the injector but my meter would not show any problems, and i have a very good fluke meter. i say new vch uvch and see what happens.
I think cleatus and Matt are right. There's no way I'm having problems with the connection now it's solid and I know it's right. As soon as I can I'm going to get a new uvch. I found them at riffraff for about 40 dollars. Should I replace the gasket too? Or just the uvch and call it a day. And also do both sides at the same time too.
Thanks for the pic mark
Don't waste the time doing one without the other or you'll be right back where you are now in a while (no telling if it would be for a few hundred or a few thousand miles from now).
Don't waste the time doing one without the other or you'll be right back where you are now in a while (no telling if it would be for a few hundred or a few thousand miles from now).
Got it thanks for the help guys I would have been chasing a ghost with out you once again.
OT...Tugly, when replacing the harness, does the under valve cover wiring come with it. From your pic, the "right" lower white wire looks to be, exposing wire?
The UVCH all comes as one piece. the crud you see on the white wire is some kind of sealant from original manufacture. The problem was the gap. I'll post something here, but don't everybody freak out - here's a Dorman harness right next to an OEM harness, and the OEM is attached to the valve cover gasket with the 50₵ mod.
I ONLY buy stuff from the dealership because I'm very persnickety. However, I did notice the other day that NAPA offers, in their line of "OE Solutions", a newly-released valve cover gasket/harness set that completely did away with the internal connector (the problematic one). You might look into that.
I ONLY buy stuff from the dealership because I'm very persnickety. However, I did notice the other day that NAPA offers, in their line of "OE Solutions", a newly-released valve cover gasket/harness set that completely did away with the internal connector (the problematic one). You might look into that.