Stumped with a no start
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: C eh N eh D eh
Stumped with a no start
Hi all!
Need your help please, 2002 F350, 7.3 with 110,000 miles.
I tried starting it yesterday after sitting for a month, very cool day 9 C/48 F.
Should have got glow plug activation (truck has glow plug indication mod), nothing.
Truck turned over rapidly and bellowed lots of white/gray smoke, almost fired.
Tried a few times same symptoms, smoke no start and no glow plug indication.
Checked glow plug mod light, works, checked line side of GPR 12.6 volts. No voltage on load side in run or start position. Replaced GPR with a new one and same results.
Now theres no smoke on start and getting constant clicking from black relay in fuse panel lower left of steering wheel with key in run position.
Batteries are 2 years old with each showing 12.6 to 12.8 volts at rest. On start they drop to 10.6 volts.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Need your help please, 2002 F350, 7.3 with 110,000 miles.
I tried starting it yesterday after sitting for a month, very cool day 9 C/48 F.
Should have got glow plug activation (truck has glow plug indication mod), nothing.
Truck turned over rapidly and bellowed lots of white/gray smoke, almost fired.
Tried a few times same symptoms, smoke no start and no glow plug indication.
Checked glow plug mod light, works, checked line side of GPR 12.6 volts. No voltage on load side in run or start position. Replaced GPR with a new one and same results.
Now theres no smoke on start and getting constant clicking from black relay in fuse panel lower left of steering wheel with key in run position.
Batteries are 2 years old with each showing 12.6 to 12.8 volts at rest. On start they drop to 10.6 volts.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
Your batteries may have the voltage, but not the amprage. You need to have the batteries load tested at any of the autoparts stores. Have them both done as it will take both to get you going.
As a backup, you can also try to jump off the truck and see if that works.
As a backup, you can also try to jump off the truck and see if that works.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
You say there is no juice on the load side with key on but you also said voltage drops to 10.(something ) this tells me the gpr is working. This does NOT mean the actual glow plugs are working. Make sure you are checking the load side of the gpr within 2 min or less of turning the key on.
Have you tried starting after plugging the block heater in for at least 30 min? If it starts afterwards then it is most likely the glow plug system .
Have you tried starting after plugging the block heater in for at least 30 min? If it starts afterwards then it is most likely the glow plug system .
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
Likes: 52
From: Southern Colorado
Can't tell if it started or not:
Now theres no smoke on start and getting constant clicking from black relay in fuse panel lower left of steering wheel with key in run position.
But a clicking relay often indicates weak batteries. I'd fully charge each one separately, if testing shows them as good, and then re-install and recheck the glow plug circuit. You gotta have glow plugs. If you're not running synthetic oil (Rotella T6, for instance) that makes a huge difference in cold starting/running.
Now theres no smoke on start and getting constant clicking from black relay in fuse panel lower left of steering wheel with key in run position.
But a clicking relay often indicates weak batteries. I'd fully charge each one separately, if testing shows them as good, and then re-install and recheck the glow plug circuit. You gotta have glow plugs. If you're not running synthetic oil (Rotella T6, for instance) that makes a huge difference in cold starting/running.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 1
From: Montana
Just my opinion. Bur 48 deg is chilly not that cold.
Just an idea, but did you happen to cycle the fuel pump? Maybe a leak is hiding.
Good batteries sure do there role though.
Clicking could be bats or maybe the starter celinoid on the passenger fender. But my only acted up when warm.
Sorry for spit balling. Just throwing out ideas
Just an idea, but did you happen to cycle the fuel pump? Maybe a leak is hiding.
Good batteries sure do there role though.
Clicking could be bats or maybe the starter celinoid on the passenger fender. But my only acted up when warm.
Sorry for spit balling. Just throwing out ideas
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
Just my opinion. Bur 48 deg is chilly not that cold.
Just an idea, but did you happen to cycle the fuel pump? Maybe a leak is hiding.
Good batteries sure do there role though.
Clicking could be bats or maybe the starter celinoid on the passenger fender. But my only acted up when warm.
Sorry for spit balling. Just throwing out ideas
Just an idea, but did you happen to cycle the fuel pump? Maybe a leak is hiding.
Good batteries sure do there role though.
Clicking could be bats or maybe the starter celinoid on the passenger fender. But my only acted up when warm.
Sorry for spit balling. Just throwing out ideas
48 is not that cold but if the GP circuit is not working it is plenty cold.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I want to make sure I'm reading your post correctly:
You get a Wait To Start light and your voltage drops to 10.6 VDC. You get no GP indicator and you checked the voltage on the output side of the GPR to confirm nothing is there. This reads like you know how to troubleshoot with a multimeter, so I will assume you checked the GPR voltage within the few seconds after turning the key (at 48 degrees F, the GPR won't be on for a long time). I will also assume you let the GPR cycle longer that the time it takes for the WTS light to go out. IF your battery truly drops to 10.6 VDC without the GPR working... and clicking is going on - dead batteries.
You get a Wait To Start light and your voltage drops to 10.6 VDC. You get no GP indicator and you checked the voltage on the output side of the GPR to confirm nothing is there. This reads like you know how to troubleshoot with a multimeter, so I will assume you checked the GPR voltage within the few seconds after turning the key (at 48 degrees F, the GPR won't be on for a long time). I will also assume you let the GPR cycle longer that the time it takes for the WTS light to go out. IF your battery truly drops to 10.6 VDC without the GPR working... and clicking is going on - dead batteries.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 324
From: Arizona
I take this to mean 10.6 volts while cranking, which does not prove the GPs are energized.
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