I wasn't planning on making a thread, but I figured by doing so I would be more encouraged to actually get something done.

Anyway, I'm working on my 1982 F100. I have been driving it around with the 302 and C6 for about three years. I only paid $500 for it but of course it has turned into a money pit.. New tires, carburetor, valve springs, brake hoses, tie rods, and I replaced all the A/C components. Plus other little stuff here and there.. yet it still needs work.

I was getting tired of the poor fuel economy (10-13 mpg) so I purchased a step van locally with a four-cylinder Cummins and Ford T-19 transmission, the odometer only showed 71k miles. Afterwards I started stockpiling new parts and I'm finally ready to install the engine, as time permits.

Heres the engine after a little work.


In the van it had no power steering (only power brakes), so I bought a vacuum/ps combo unit from a 90's Dodge.



Not sure if you guys care, but heres a pic after I got done adjusting the rocker arms.



and test fitting the transmission (picked up a ZF5 S5-42) to use instead of the T19:

 

I was reading your thread over at 4btswap. Seems like those guys know what is going on. I was looking into doing a swap into a bullnose, but it seems like a standard is the best option without getting into a bunch of BS. I was wanting an auto with OD though.

 

Heres the 302 as it sat this morning (well.. after removing the A/C belt, fan shroud and upper radiator hose):


After a little work:


Finally lifting the engine out:




Yes, I have the privilege of working on rock. I lifted the engine up, then pushed the truck back.


That's what an engine bay looks like when you use a truck for a few years without fixing the oil and power steering leaks. The new engine shouldn't have this issue ssince I resealed the oil pan, tappet cover, front timing case cover, and valve covers. Plus the rear main seal, and front crank seal.

 

Subscribed. Curious to see how this turns out.

 

I originally wanted to stay with an automatic also, until figuring the costs. My engine came with the Ford adapter, but I would have needed a different flywheel, and a special wave-ring to match up to a torque converter for an automatic. That doesn't sound like much to connect the C6 (which I will explain why I chose not to do so below), but to use a Ford transmission with OD I would have to find an automatic reman ($$$) or buy a used one and hope it works... or rebuild it myself. Then for an E4OD it would take an aftermarket controller (what do those go for, $600-1000 ?)

The reason not to use the C6: Lack of overdrive, having to rig something up for the vacuum control to shift properly (not to even mention that mine could use a rebuild do to a slip between 2-3). The other reason is that this stock Ford adapter doesn't have the bottom cut out for getting to the torque converter bolts with a C6. (There is a small inspection cover but i'm not sure if that would work) So you would probably have to connect the torque converter up to the wave-ring/flywheel and then try to slide the transmission in place nice and evenly.. if that would even work. You wouldn't have any issue with the E4OD, as the transmission itself has an opening at the bottom of the bellhousing.

As for manual transmission costs, it wouldn't have cost much to use the T19. Just a manual pedal assembly, new clutch master and line.. and the firewall reinforcement place to do it correctly. I was wanting overdrive though, so here are my costs for using the ZF5:

ZF5: $350
Reinforcement Plate: $100
Pedal Assy: $40
Floor cover: $10
Clutch Master: $40
Trans Mount: $8
Clutch Line: $30
Slave Cyl: Can't remember.

Overall I can use the ZF5 for less than what it would have taken to just buy a shift controller for an E4OD. Someone else could have done it cheaper, but I would rather have a new clutch master, line and slave cylinder than taking chances with used stuff. I'm too lazy to pull the transmission unless I have to.

Thanks, usually when I need to figure out how to do something I look around in your thread.

 

That could take years!

I think you've made the right decision on the tranny. A diesel wants to turn slowly, but a C6 and 3.50 gears nets you 2700 R's at 65 MPH. (What gears do you have?) But a ZF nets you 2000 - right where a diesel loves to run. Even the T19, with no OD, will only drop the R's to ~2500 at 65.

 

The vacuum issues with the autos were what I was battling with in my mind. I know an auxiliary vacuum pump can be used to run everything else like cruise and hvac because they aren't dependent on fluctuations in vacuum. My Dodge has an electric vacuum pump and my powerstroke has a mechanical one.

I have heard of the 4BT's getting up to 30 mpg in trucks with OD transmissions. Not to mention they put out the torque a truck should have. Then the low cost of maintenance coupled with the longevity of a diesel. The other cool thing about those motors is that they were a direct replacement for 300I6 motors and seem to have a lot of Ford compliant parts like the alternators and bell housing patterns. Does anything have to be done with the perches on the frame?

I would imagine that you are adding around 300-400lbs to the front end of that truck. Is it recommended to change the coils up front or will that little of an increase in the weight matter?

 

It does take time, but theres lots of good info.

I have 2.75 gears, and 29" tires. It may seem like a bit much but there were those trucks with 2.47 gears and SROD trans powered by 300-i6's.

The little turbo on this thing should make an amazing amount of low end torque.

The springs probably should be upgraded, but I'm going to try it out first and see how it goes. The engine actually should sit pretty far back, evening out the weight a tiny bit..

I just need to cut out the V8 perches and install the 300-6 perches that I purchased from a member here, and it should bolt in place. I have seen picture of others doing it, and it leaves little (if any) clearance between the firewall and rear valve cover.

The specific setup I have can make 450 ft/lbs or more at the engine based on this thread:
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...8-Dyno-Results

One thing to note is his highest reading (about 450 ft/lbs) is that the reading didn't start until 2000 rpm. I wouldn't be surprised if it was making about 500 ft/lbs at 1700 rpm. Then his HP reading (about 184 HP) could easily be increased, stock engines begin to defuel at 2500 rpm. Throw in a 3200 rpm spring and it should be good for about 200-210 hp. More if you go for a bigger turbo and sacrifice some of the low end.

 

I wonder what the factory specs are for the motor. The inline Cummins motors are usually rated for torque and HP at idle.

 

Cool project. What vehicles are these engines found in?

 

There were a ton of them put in bread trucks and step vans. I think UPS even ran them for a lot of yrs.

 

Mine is from a Grumman Olson Hostess truck, which originally had a 300-6. There are Freightliner breadvans with them too, but they weren't conversions so they have Eaton transmissions I think, not useful for us. The transmission/adapter on those have mounts on each side that set on the top of the frame.

Got the old leaky steering gearbox out. (and the new one in.. but didn't get a pic).


While the steering shaft was disconnected I decided to work on removing the auto assembly and installing the manual pedal assembly


Steering Column Out:


Firewall Reinforcement Plate:


Luckily my 1982 already had the spot on the firewall for the clutch master.


Drilling the bolt holes and doing the center with a hole saw was easy.


I used the steering column bolts to hold the plate in place, to prepare for drilling the other five holes. I had to bend it a little, but not much.


...and this is where three of the holes come through:


The other two go straight up under the cowl area..


I did finish installing the pedal assembly and reinforcement place but didn't take pics. I pulled the automatic up into the engine compartment and while trying to pull it by the shaft I discovered that there wasn't really anything holding it in.. was there supposed to be some type of clip on there or something where it is heavily worn?

 

They all have that worn spot for whatever reason. I don't really think it's worn. I think it just isn't necessary to be machined so they don't.
Nothing holds the input shaft in. The shaft just free floats if you will.

 

looking good, curious as to where you got your firewall reinforcement plate at? we are doing a body swap and the donor is an auto so im wanting to find one for the donor cab
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-xl-build.html

 

That's good to know.

Nice build you got going there.

This is the only place you can get them (reproduced), but the price isn't bad in my opinion.. and the quality is good. One thing I didn't point out is that I used Permatex Clear RTV Silicone to seal up the holes that go into the engine compartment and under the cowl. It said it was for indoor and outdoor use so it should hold up.

Terrapin Manufacturing