F100 Buildup Thread..
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Glad to help :-)
We use those a lot here in Aus to trigger retro-fitted thermo fans on old muscle cars or conversions.
We also use a lot of the inline filters in the top hose on the old cast iron blocks, also a good way of joining top hoses.
Aeroflow Performance Products - Professional Fluid Transfer Systems and Performance Products
We use those a lot here in Aus to trigger retro-fitted thermo fans on old muscle cars or conversions.
We also use a lot of the inline filters in the top hose on the old cast iron blocks, also a good way of joining top hoses.
Aeroflow Performance Products - Professional Fluid Transfer Systems and Performance Products
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Posting Guru
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From: Missouri
I already ordered the first one you showed me, don't make me second guess myself. 
I picked up the E350 PS hose, I checked the end and it does fit. I didn't check yet to see if it's long enough, but it should work. Now that I have a manual transmission I'm not using the transmission cooler in the radiator. I thought of using it as a power steering cooler, but then realized that the engine coolant probably runs hotter than the ps fluid.
I picked up the E350 PS hose, I checked the end and it does fit. I didn't check yet to see if it's long enough, but it should work. Now that I have a manual transmission I'm not using the transmission cooler in the radiator. I thought of using it as a power steering cooler, but then realized that the engine coolant probably runs hotter than the ps fluid.
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From: Missouri
The E350 PS hose worked, I bent the tubing a little bit.. I didn't need to though. I'm sure it would be better with less of the metal tubing at the gearbox end.
New oil sensor and fittings.
Installed:
Here we are now.
New oil sensor and fittings.
Installed:
Here we are now.
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From: Missouri
Thanks Gary! It shouldn't be too long if I don't run into issues. The truck still won't be pretty but it will be useable again.
I really had to think it over when buying the adapters, I went back and forth between Home Depot and Lowes before coming up with anything. I looked around for a 1" nipple but they didn't have any, but I think it turned out well. The angle is actually deceiving, the placement looks almost perfect when looking at it in person. 2" would actually put it under the injector lines more, and would interfere with the PS reservoir. I'll try to get another picture later on.
The stepvan setup had a rubber hose and the sensor was mounted on the firewall with a hose clamp. I thought having it on the engine would be better. The one in the van was only going to a light, no gauge.
The stepvan setup had a rubber hose and the sensor was mounted on the firewall with a hose clamp. I thought having it on the engine would be better. The one in the van was only going to a light, no gauge.
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From: Missouri
It runs!
The radiator hose connector came in the mail yesterday. Today I ran the fuel hoses to the engine, put in two gallons of oil, antifreeze, topped off the ps fluid and dumped a few gallons of diesel in the tank. I got it running without much trouble. The engine is a little shakey, but the mounts absorb most of the vibration. The truck itself doesn't move much except when revving it and at startup/shutdown.
The belt tensioner pully is a bit squeaky, which is kind of annoying. Injector number four is also leaking around the seat; there was a little diesel pooled around it from bleeding the lines and bubbles were showing up. I didn't try tightening it, if that doesn't work it will have to be pulled and install a new copper washer. Other than that, there were no leaks.
It will be going down the road one of these days...
The belt tensioner pully is a bit squeaky, which is kind of annoying. Injector number four is also leaking around the seat; there was a little diesel pooled around it from bleeding the lines and bubbles were showing up. I didn't try tightening it, if that doesn't work it will have to be pulled and install a new copper washer. Other than that, there were no leaks.
It will be going down the road one of these days...
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From: Northeast, OK
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
If the motor was shakey it could still have a little air in the system somewhere. You said you didn't see any leaks s it probably isn't sucking air in anywhere. Glad it started and ran though.
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From: Missouri
I think you're right because the longer it ran the better it was getting, i'm thinking injector could have contributed a little bit too. I let it run for a while, it only reached about 140 degrees since there was no load.
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With the M in front of the ZF it was very snappy. But the ZF is a truck tranny, and you shouldn't hurry it. I had a kid drive mine and tried a speed shift - the synchros never recovered. And, the ZF's are apparently inherently noisy. Mine is and others have said theirs is as well. But, I've always wanted a manual tranny in a truck, and now I have it. (Or, had it, as it is in a few hundred pieces at the moment.)
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From: Missouri
With the M in front of the ZF it was very snappy. But the ZF is a truck tranny, and you shouldn't hurry it. I had a kid drive mine and tried a speed shift - the synchros never recovered. And, the ZF's are apparently inherently noisy. Mine is and others have said theirs is as well. But, I've always wanted a manual tranny in a truck, and now I have it. (Or, had it, as it is in a few hundred pieces at the moment.)
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From: Missouri
I have been lazy lately and haven't really gotten anything done other than putting the hood back on, which will need to be replaced later anyway.
I started chopping up the downpipe trying to come up with a way to fit between the transmission and cab. There would be more room if I would remove the heatshield from the cab on the passenger side, but would rather not..
If anyone wants to do this swap in the future, just wait a little bit. Hostess is auctioning off a bunch more at different locations. There is a guy selling them on Craistlist in Los Angeles for $1500 cutout with the engine and trans still bolted to the frame.
I started chopping up the downpipe trying to come up with a way to fit between the transmission and cab. There would be more room if I would remove the heatshield from the cab on the passenger side, but would rather not..
If anyone wants to do this swap in the future, just wait a little bit. Hostess is auctioning off a bunch more at different locations. There is a guy selling them on Craistlist in Los Angeles for $1500 cutout with the engine and trans still bolted to the frame.
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From: Missouri
Okay, sorry for the lack of updates. Only thing new really is that I got the carrier bearing bracket that bolts to the crossmember (The one from the Grumman Olson van was a little different). There are tons of different ones (22) available for different applications in the Light Ford Truck Manual and I just went out on a limb and bought one (typed ford 4831 into ebay and bought one of the cheapest ones in the E0-E6 range). The bracket is stamped E5TA-4831-EA but the number on the Ford sticker is E5TZ-4831-E. Even though there are a bunch of different part numbers, I have only seen two different styles in the junkyards. The tall one that I have, and I saw a short one on a 1988 2wd F150. Since I have seen this same tall bracket on a 1986 F350, 1986 F250, and 199? F250 (ZF5)(all 2wd) i'm going to assume it's okay for an F100 with a ZF5 since the only difference will be the axle. The though it stuck in my mind though, how did they decide which to use.. because as far as driveshaft geometry goes don't all tranmissions output at the same level? (in-line with the crankshaft?).
Anyway, pics:
Anyway, pics:
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
No, there needs to be some kind of angle. If you think about it when the suspension moves up and down the angle of the driveline is constantly fluctuating. This would be why there are slip yokes on drive lines to allow for the distance between the tranny out put and the rear end yoke.