subscribed...

 

Definitely subscribing to this. Looks like a neat build. Was the 302 that was in it original to the truck?

Ford Trucks Forever!!!

 

I wonder if Gary Lewis is aware of the aftermarket reinforcement plate from Terrapin?
He will probably need one for Dad's build.

 

You haven't kept up with efforts on Dad's truck. I realize that there are a couple (hundred) pages in that thread, but keep up!

Seriously though, thanks for thinking of me.

 

More progress. Here are the old 255-302-351W perches (that's what is stamped on the underside of them.) The passenger side was held by four bolts, two visible on the top of the frame and the other two securing the mount to that big crossmember. The drivers side has three bolts and three rivets.. which are annoying to remove.


After removal:


The 300-i6 perches.


Installed:


New mounts (Anchor part number: 2469)


One installed so you can see the angle.. etc:


Lowering the engine into place, i'm glad I didn't try to install the transmission at the same time. At this point the pressure plate is almost touching the firewall, and the front pulley is pretty close to the radiator.


Almost there, moving the engine back.


In place, there appears to still be enough firewall clearance to remove the rear valve cover, and there is about a foot between the fan hub pulley and radiator. This is good news because I have heard of others having firewall clearance issues.


Plenty of clearance between the turbo and A/C box, the down pipe will need some modification to fit though.


It wasn't necessarily original. It used a 1965 289 block, 302 rotating assembly, .030 over pistons, original D8OE heads, unknown Comp Cam, lifters and springs, 1.6 ratio roller rockers, and the Performer RPM intake.


Does anyone know the compatibility of the C6 crossmember in comparison to the ZF5 crossmember? I have read of other people using the same crossmember, and some saying that it wouldn't work... and most people are referring to 4x4's. I can't find any info on 2wd compatibility.

 

I ripped up the carpet for cutting out the whole for the transmission.. I don't really like the rust.. but I have seen worse.


Not to mention the insulation sticking to the floor making it look kind of crappy.


I placed the new floor shifter panel over to mark where the holes need to be for the screws.


Then marked an outline where to cut.


It's not completely square but I think I did okay.. the panel will completely cover it.


Before installing the transmission I put on the new slave cylinder. I didn't bleed it or anything prior.. so hopefully I will manage with it installed in the truck.


Poor mans transmission installation, but it works. The old T19 bellhousing didn't have the holes to use the two lower bolts in the adapter, but the ZF5 did. I couldn't get them to thread in though so I got a flashlight and looked in there.. the adapter wasn't threaded for the lower bolts. I used a tap to cut some threads and installed the two bolts. No problems, but it would have been much easier if I knew ahead of time to do it outside of the truck.


New transmission mount. I regret not installing it while it was out of the truck, I absolutely cannot get the bolts free. Good news though, the C6 crossmember will work, it just sits further back. I will have to drill new holes.


I got tired of messing with the transmission and started on some other stuff. The throttle cable didn't extend far enough to connect to the throttle lever and the bracket, so I unbolted the bracket and did a little tiny bit of bending and bolted it on the other side of the support piece on the pump. The angle was off for the cable, so I undid the little ball on the thottle lever and flipped it (it was facing up before). Everything turned out just right.



I did a few other things too, hooked up the vacuum line for the brakes. Connected the ground wire from the cab to the top bolt of the inspection cover on the adapter plate (drivers side). Reconnected the turbo to engine intake crossover pipe. I was messing with the radiator hoses too. The old 302 upper hose will work, I just need to take a heat gun to make it a little more pliable to connect to the slightly larger outlet on the engine. For the lower, it looks like it will work if I splice together the hose from the stepvan, and the hose from the 302.. unless I can come up with something better. Unfortunately the lower outlet is on wrong side. It would be nice to have a radiator with both connections on the passenger side.

 

Sounds like it is moving right along Switch!!

 

Yeah! I bought the van in April, so I had plenty of time to gather parts. No waiting for stuff in the mail, just work. It's just the little stuff that slows me down, like spending half an hour looking for a tool that I'm only going to use for a minute.

I would already be done if this was already a manual diesel truck. Being an automatic, carbed gasser slows me down since I get to swap the engine, convert to manual and mess with the fuel stuff all at the same time. Speaking of the fuel stuff, I have a new rear tank and fuel sender. I just got the stock replacement for this truck, no return coming from the sender. I need to figure out a way to make a return that goes to the bottom of the tank and has a good seal. Maybe drilling a hole into the sender, finding some type of fitting that seals properly and running a hose to the bottom or something...

 

Looking good. A little POR on the floor? As for the radiator, don't the ones for 300 six have both connections on the passengers side?

 

That's what I thought too, but I looked up the part on Autozone's site and the stock picture shows them on opposite sides. Maybe they need to be on opposite sides so the water has a longer distance to travel before making it back to the engine?

Good idea on the POR, I can't weld in a panel right now but I should put something down to prevent the rust from spreading.

 

Hi, liking the build! On the radiator, mine (83 F100 300 six) has the hoses on opposite sides. Top hose on the drivers side, lower on the drivers side. Don't know if there is any particular reason for it.

 

In an attempt to remove the bad mount, I twisted off both bolts going into the transmission. I guess I'll start with the drill and see if I can get them out with a bolt extractor.. if not I will be drilling the whole damn things out and taping it for a larger bolt sizse.

Good to know, mine has the top hose on the passenger side, bottom on the drivers.

 

That sucks Switch!! I hope it goes well on the extraction. the aluminum should let go of the broken bolts if you heat it up.

 

That's what I read but I didn't have any luck. I tried heating them multiple times (no go), screw extractors (I used the three biggest ones I had and they all broke). Then I tried drilling them out laying under the truck and after fighting them all day I decided to just pull the transmission. I'll finish drilling the damn things out on Thursday.

The only positive thing that I did today was install the starter.

 

Sometimes it just goes that way. But tomorrow will be a better day, and in a few years you'll have forgotten today. I hope.