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Setting up a winter rig

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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 04:33 PM
  #1  
ThrashinDad's Avatar
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Setting up a winter rig

It's fall in Alberta and I need a truck that's going to handle our winter and the roads.

I have a 79 f150 lifted shortbox 4x4 351 carbureted 4 speed manual. I am currently removing the 351 and transmission and having them both gone over by my mechanic.

I'm looking for some particular advice on any considerations for a good winter 79. What kind of experiences have you guys and girls encountered? Any certain parts or procedures you would use or recommend? Any one have any experience with a good carburetor for a 351? Winter driven?

Thanks for your time.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 05:12 PM
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If you don't already have one i'd recommend a block heater, the type that replaces a freeze plug in the block.

Something in the 800-1,000 watt range.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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If they use salt brine there like here, coat that underbody with something.
Pick your poison, anything is better than nothing. Some are definitely better than others.
Block heater is a good idea, and maybe a battery blanket depending on truck location.
A warm engine doesn't help with a frozen battery.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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Where can you get a good block heater like the type you spoke of? Any dos and don'ts?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ThrashinDad
Where can you get a good block heater like the type you spoke of? Any dos and don'ts?
Make sure you have a good thermostat, probably about 190. I have a 180 in mine and I live in New Mexico and in the winter its hell to get warm, it almost worse than a diesel
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ThrashinDad
Where can you get a good block heater like the type you spoke of? Any dos and don'ts?
I have a Napa (Balkamp) block heater, it's all metal construction.

I'd avoid the plastic block heaters by the likes of KAT and some other companies.

Installation is pretty straight forward, just be sure to clock the heater according to the directions, otherwise the heating element may contact the engine block and short out.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 11:46 PM
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I know this is a little old school but my preferred way of undercoating would be to SOAK the whole underside with used motor oil. It's messy but it really does the job. Once you soak it with oil go cruising for a while on a very dusty road. You may have to give it a few coats also.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:15 AM
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Hahaha, Used motor oil! My old man used to pop the cab mount plugs up every other year or so and pour a quart of 30 weight in, then go bombing around the pasture. I had totally forgotten about it until you said that. yet one more thing that Dad did that I never understood until now.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 07:17 AM
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My '85 F-250 was used for plowing for many years and still is on occasion. I have a mildly/moderately built 351 Windsor.

You said you have the motor pulled. Beef her up with a couple bolt ons. Holley 650 4 barrel vacuum secondaries and a good 4 barrel intake will work wonders. If its an automatic make sure the carb has an auto kickdown.

Since this is for plowing you will want to maximize low end grunt to get that tank moving. I've got an old school RV type cam in my motor. Being as yours likely won't see over 4k rpm this is a good thing. An RV cam basically sacrifices high rpm horsepower for low end torque and will help considerably. I'm not sure what general specs are but I'm betting something like high lift short duration as it sounds a bit beefier over stock but has a smooth near stock sounding idle. Low idle should be around 700, fast around 1100 and in gear around 550.

Pair of headers and a decent exhaust system will bump up power a little bit.

If you have the time, I used to do a total engine top end rebuild every fall with new gaskets and carb jets bigger etc to keep everything fresh before plow season. I'd recommend it but it isn't mandatory and you should be ok.

Try and do a smog pump or AC delete if you have it. Get rid of any emissions equipment. You shouldn't need it anymore.

If you can find 351 Cleveland 2V heads, bolt them on. They flow significantly better and will increase your compression but make sure they are early heads so you don't get stuck lowering your compression even more so than what you already have or run the risk of no change. It will help power output while saving you money on aftermarket aluminum heads. That way you aren't spending a fortune. I'm assuming your engine is a 351M based on the information you have provided.

Tires....I personally run 235x85's on stock 16 inch wheels. That is plenty and about the biggest I would go for snow so you get the most traction. Any bigger and the risk of hydroplaning increases. I used a combination of Cooper Discoverer A/T's and ATR's for snow but I'm not sure they make those anymore.

Rebuild the front axle. It going to take the brunt of the force after the plow frame and you want it to be sturdy. Just make are its all clean an replace worn down parts like standard maintenance.

Keep an eye on the front clip and every knock and cranny each season. Check for stress fractures and the base of your cab and other things. Plowing is very tough on trucks.

Suspension....I beefed up my front suspension with 1 extra leaf per side and aftermarket shocks but seeing as you have an F150 I'm not really sure what to tell you there. Anything is better than stock no matter how sturdy it came from the factory. In reality that is a lot of weight from the plow, plow frame, engine and entire front clip and it needs to be improved.

I'd also undercoat with a couple coats of black spray paint as that seams to work the best and holds for some time an until you get tear it down and do it properly.

Other than that you should be all set for a good plowing season.
 
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