I can't find any instructions in the tech folder regarding a thermostat change. Can anyone direct me to a thread with pictures. I'm not to good with the search. Thanks

 

I don't have any pictures but, drain about 1 gallon of coolant, locate thermostat at front drivers side(the hose attaches from the radiator to the thermostat). Remove two 10mm bolts for the thermostat housing and replace it with the new one. Add your coolant and your done.

 

Early engines have to deal with the EBP sensor, later engines do not need to remove anything. Just remove the upper hose and t-stat housing as a unit.

Josh

 

First pic shows the thermostat housing setting in front of the radiator.





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it's right here at the end of the upper hose

 

There is a great video on YouTube by sirmastertech, that is about flushing the coolent. But in that video he shows taking the Tstat out.

 

While there and coolant is removed, you may consider replacing coolant temp sensor...approx $26 bucks at Advance Auto.

 

1. Draincoolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove blockplug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stathousing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move.Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill withdistilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring inplace.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium goldor Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than itsounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between eachflush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.

Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty.

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Hope this helps. If your coolant hasn't been changed you might want to do a drain and refill minus the chemicals if your eot/ect's are good.

 

Sorry no pics but this info might be good if you have your EBP sensor mounted by your t-stat. You can't remove the t-stat without first removing the EBP sensor bracket. Note that my fuel line routing is different than in the pic from post #4 above. It might be that my fuel pressure regulator is clocked different. My fuel lines are very close to the rearmost 'bolt' hole and actually go horizontally over the hole to the fuel pressure regulator.

On my late build '04, I have studs with integral 'nut' portion that secure the t-stat. The EBP sensor & sensor bracket are secured to the studs with nuts. Removed nuts & removed EBP sensor & bracket. This will allow you to access 'nut' built into the stud. When I tried to remove the rearmost stud, the top of it was hitting the (3/8") metal fuel line. I was starting to remove the line at the fuel regulator when I stopped to take a closer look. (I really didn't want to disconnect that line as I only had one 21mm wrench & I would have had to use a adjustable wrench to back it up.) If you follow the metal line down the front of the engine, you'll see a clamp that secures two metal lines. Removing the bolt that secures the clamp to the block allowed me to move the lines enough to get the thermostat stud out.

Other than that, it was like the other installs. I drained coolant from bottom of radiator until degas bottle was empty & a little extra. I think I dropped about 2 gallons. While that was draining, I removed the air box and rotated CAC tube out of the way. Since I removed EBP sensor & tube, I cleaned that all up too.

 

That's what I do. Just unbolt the 2 screws on the thermostat (10mm socket connected to a universal joint and 10" extension) and I just unbolted after draining a gallon of coolant. I used a magnetic pickup to keep from dropping the bolts. Disconnected the upper radiator hose clamp on the radiator, but left the clamp on the housing until I got it removed off the truck.

If your upper hose is OEM Ford, there should be a white mark on the hose end that connects to the thermostat housing. That needs to be lined up with the casting mark on the thermostat housing. If you have an aftermarket hose, that white locater mark may not be on the hose. In that case, take a black sharpie and mark the hose at the spot where it connects.

When you remove the spring clamp, replace it with a good quality hose clamp that you can tighten down instead of relying on the spring pressure. My OEM spring clamp at the housing was allowing coolant to leak.