rear bumper
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rear bumper
hi guys im looking for a factory rear step bumper for my 1975 f250 as well as the mounting hardware not to sure if this is the right place on the forum to put this but I hope someone on here either has one or knows of one for sale
thanks tyler
thanks tyler
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
With that said, 75-lb. "dock" bumpers are on almost every Dentside in the salvage yards because not very many folks opted for the OEM "contour" bumper because it doesn't have nor is rated for a hitch mount while others opted to go post-purchase and buy/install one from a retailer. Even fewer simply never installed one.
So head the local 'yard with a Dentside and have at it. That's the best deal. Otherwise, buck up and get the popular step bumpers made by Fey.
Moderator & parts slinger
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Like he said JY time, or craigslist or a ton of reproductions are made by FTE sponsors (NPD or BG) and or non sponsors like high $, low quality LMC and high $, high quality Dennis Carpenter.....
I got a chrome 79 step bumper off the c list for 75$ and smiled all the way.
I got a chrome 79 step bumper off the c list for 75$ and smiled all the way.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
I too smiled when I assembled up a pair from three different trucks. It's technically not correct for a Bumpside but that's where they are going.
Posting Guru
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From: Oregon
And to think I just cut mine off today. A PO at some point welded it to the frame, another or the same bent it all up and another or the same painted while on the truck not minding to mask anything off, as you can see by the overspray on the quarter panels. I plan to keep the license plate lamp though has that nice Ford stamp on it
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Arkansas
And to think I just cut mine off today. A PO at some point welded it to the frame, another or the same bent it all up and another or the same painted while on the truck not minding to mask anything off, as you can see by the overspray on the quarter panels. I plan to keep the license plate lamp though has that nice Ford stamp on it
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
If you have to torch or grind by the gas tank you can put a wet old blanket or towel to catch the sparks and have the tank full, that way less room for fumes.
Cut the bumper bolt head off on the outside of the frame, even I do not like to torch in between the fuel tank and the inside of the frame....
Sawzall is a good alternative to a grinder or torch if you can get it in there, or even an air chisel?
Cut the bumper bolt head off on the outside of the frame, even I do not like to torch in between the fuel tank and the inside of the frame....
Sawzall is a good alternative to a grinder or torch if you can get it in there, or even an air chisel?
Senior User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 394
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From: Arkansas
If you have to torch or grind by the gas tank you can put a wet old blanket or towel to catch the sparks and have the tank full, that way less room for fumes.
Cut the bumper bolt head off on the outside of the frame, even I do not like to torch in between the fuel tank and the inside of the frame....
Sawzall is a good alternative to a grinder or torch if you can get it in there, or even an air chisel?
Cut the bumper bolt head off on the outside of the frame, even I do not like to torch in between the fuel tank and the inside of the frame....
Sawzall is a good alternative to a grinder or torch if you can get it in there, or even an air chisel?
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,251
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
If you are pulling the tank to just pull it, since you are that far in, you might as well replace the sending unit, and clean the heck out of the insides.
And look the underside of the tank real well where the bottom support straps follow the curve of the tank, that is a common rust place.
And change the filler neck tube, having the tank off makes it easier to do the bumper, just do not get your bumper hardware installed backwards. Meaning have the nut on the tank side of the frame.
And look the underside of the tank real well where the bottom support straps follow the curve of the tank, that is a common rust place.
And change the filler neck tube, having the tank off makes it easier to do the bumper, just do not get your bumper hardware installed backwards. Meaning have the nut on the tank side of the frame.
Senior User
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 394
Likes: 1
From: Arkansas
If you are pulling the tank to just pull it, since you are that far in, you might as well replace the sending unit, and clean the heck out of the insides.
And look the underside of the tank real well where the bottom support straps follow the curve of the tank, that is a common rust place.
And change the filler neck tube, having the tank off makes it easier to do the bumper, just do not get your bumper hardware installed backwards. Meaning have the nut on the tank side of the frame.
And look the underside of the tank real well where the bottom support straps follow the curve of the tank, that is a common rust place.
And change the filler neck tube, having the tank off makes it easier to do the bumper, just do not get your bumper hardware installed backwards. Meaning have the nut on the tank side of the frame.
The tank seems solid but a good clean out and paint isn't a bad idea either
I didn't mean to hijack the tread lol just wondered how he went about removing the welds without chopping the frame up.
Posting Guru
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From: Oregon
For now i did it down and dirty. Cut it off with sawzall and left the tails welded tothe frame. Eventually it will be getting a roll pan.I did it right where i took the photo. There's plenty of room to cut it with every thing in place.
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