Hi all. Got a question that I have not been able to find the answer to...here on fte with a search.

So...thinking of getting a level kit for my 2012. Looking at the spacer type lifts. But here is the issue...find some that install on top of spring...and others that install under the spring.

Ok...what is the difference? Which is better?


Thanks!

biz

 

Both styles work fine, I used to run the Daystar Spacers on top of the springs and they worked great!

 

There's really no difference. It's probably a little easier and quicker for the shop to throw the puck on top of the spring so they just do it that way. I would prefer them to be on the bottom so they don't show.

 

Ok interesting. Glad to hear there is no difference.

I thought one...and or the other might affect spring rate and ride? Or...change the handling characteristics?

Now...just have to find the right level lift for my needs.


biz

 

My truck handled exactly the same as it did prior to leveling it (spacer on top, label turned inwards so you can't see it, used the shock extensions that came with the kit as well). Things changed a little bit when I threw the 35" tires on it though.

As far as figuring out how much to go up, get out a tape and floor jack and start experimenting.

 

In case it's not clear, there are a few things to think about.

Your particular truck doesn't need a leveling kit. Your truck should already be level. The idea behind a "leveling" solution is for when you have a truck with a taller rear block under the leaf springs than the front coil springs. Different trucks with different configurations may or may not have that condition. Your truck should be level to begin with. In fact, some people complain of backwards/inverse rake after a leveling kit install, where the rear is lower than the front.

A proper "leveling kit" is exclusively something to raise the front of the truck a little, usually around 2", but can be anything from 1" to 2.5" from most suppliers. It's usually accomplished with a simple puck of some material or another, adding height to the upper or lower spring mount. It used to be a pretty common thing to need, but these days many trucks come level from the factory already. But because the name was was already there, there are a number of "leveling kits" out there that actually lift the rear as well, usually with just a taller rear block. In the rest of the world, this type of setup is typically called a "budget boost" because it's much cheaper to produce than new springs and so forth.

Now that you know you don't really need a leveling kit to literally level your truck, you also need to think about if you really want to mess with the suspension. If so, then consider why and how it will impact the other functions of the truck and daily livability. That will lead you to the best choice, whether to leave it alone or stick with a small budget boost or a whole new suspension.

Whatever you do, I would strongly recommend not pinching pennies when it comes to your truck's suspension. If you go for a lift just for cosmetic reasons, it can be tempting to go with the cheapest option, but you have to consider that you are indeed modifying the suspension geometry, important enough on its own, but you're also modifying the powertrain geometry as well. Some people don't know the difference, mostly because they're fairly oblivious anyway, the sort that tend to blow out tires because they never noticed the change in handling and behavior when tires started losing pressure. The higher you go, the more things change, the more complex and thorough a bolt-on kit needs to be, and the cost skyrockets accordingly. If you decide it's important enough to you to do, just make sure you are prepared for the cost and that you don't try to cut corners...

For an example of how to really do it right, check out this guy's thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-theory.html

 

is PERSONALLY I wouldn't purchase a used vehicle that has been modified this way - for the reasons just previously stated.
If you do go that route make sure it can easily (read cheaply) be restored to stock condition.

Just my biased opinion.

 

Thanks all for the info...

The main point was to determine whether or not a top level system .vs the bottom style altered the ride in a negative way. It appears that would be a NO.


Best regards.

 

Every truck seems to react differently. Any spacer is going to change the caster angle and can affect how the truck handles. I had a 2.5" top spacer on my 2006 and now have a 2" bottom spacer on my 2011. The 2006 was more adversely affected than the 2011 but that is caused by the difference in height.

2" is going to affect the caster the same no matter if it is added at the top of the spring or the bottom of the spring. There will be no difference in the ride between the two. On an F350 2" seems to be perfect and hasn't caused the severe bump steer problems that some would want you to expect. If you have an F250, you won't be happy with any spacer unless you add taller blocks to the rear.

 

A 2" drop, if it's from the top of the spring or the bottom of the spring is a 2" drop. Your caster angle isn't going to be adversely affected in any significant manner. The positive camber is still positive camber.. may change a fraction of a percentage but, it'll be consistent with the spacer on top or on bottom of the coil spring. The bump steer you may notice more comes from the lack of dropping the pitman arm the same 2" you dropped the axle. So, either add a drop pitman arm or add a steering stabilizer.

 

I don't have time to get into everything factually incorrect about that post, so I will summarize.

1) Caster angle is affected any time you change suspension height on a coil spring front end. This is not generally a good thing, as it leads to a feeling of wandering on the road and slowness to self-center the steering.

2) Camber will not change directly due to suspension. Generally on solid front axles there is no way to adjust camber.

3) Bump steer is separate from both caster and camber angles and is not affected by a steering stabilizer.

4) it is extremely rare that a dropped pitman arm is a good thing for smaller lifts, much less necessary. Most of the time when they're included in a bolt-on lift package it's to give a feeling of "completeness" and an excuse to charge more for it. Consumer misinformation drives lift contents even more than actual utility.