Help with new setup
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Junior User
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From: Dinwiddie, VA
Help with new setup
Ok I need a little help here fellows! I got everything in and running decent sitting still! Everything seems to click in the driveway but on the road is a different story! I have the Clifford intake with a weber 38 dges carb on it. Idle is set timing and idle mixture are good to go! Choke is set. I get moving down the road just fine and them once I get up to speed around 35 to 40 mph it starts falling on its face like its run out of fuel! I push the clutch in and give it a few and I can hammer down for a few hundred yards before it falls again! Fuel pressure is set to a maximum of 3.5 psi. I can't imagine it needs jetted coming as a set up from Clifford, but not ruling it out! Any suggestions from any of the pros out there? This has got me stumped now! Been messing with it all weekend and I have had enough of it!
It's frustrating because it purrs so nice. Runs like a champ except at higher speeds!
It's frustrating because it purrs so nice. Runs like a champ except at higher speeds!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Amen! I'm not sure what PSI that carb needs, but an Edelbrock 4bbl needs no more than 5.5. So seven PSI might not be needed, but dial it up to at least five and see if it fixes it.
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Junior User
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From: Dinwiddie, VA
I will give it a shot tomorrow! Talked to a guy at Clifford today and he seems to think it is a distributor issue. I am about at my wits end on it now!
I ran it at about 3000 RPM for about four minutes straight and did the whole blip test thing and it checked out fine! I can't see how the fuel problem would only show up while driving but who knows?
I ran it at about 3000 RPM for about four minutes straight and did the whole blip test thing and it checked out fine! I can't see how the fuel problem would only show up while driving but who knows?
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Dinwiddie, VA
I will give it a shot tomorrow! Talked to a guy at Clifford today and he seems to think it is a distributor issue. I am about at my wits end on it now!
I ran it at about 3000 RPM for about four minutes straight and did the whole blip test thing and it checked out fine! I can't see how the fuel problem would only show up while driving but who knows?
I ran it at about 3000 RPM for about four minutes straight and did the whole blip test thing and it checked out fine! I can't see how the fuel problem would only show up while driving but who knows?
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
That's easy - the engine is essentially doing no work when running in neutral, but is doing quite a bit of work when moving the truck. Work takes energy, and that comes from fuel. In other words, it takes far more fuel to move the truck down the road than it does to rev it up in neutral.
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Had a clogged fuel filter that caused similar issues. It could draw enough gas to idle and rev, but not enough gas to go down the highway.
If the fuel filter is good you might check for kinks or restrictions in the fuel line.
Also, where is your fuel pump? If you've got a break in the line between the fuel tank and fuel pump you could be sucking air.
If the fuel filter is good you might check for kinks or restrictions in the fuel line.
Also, where is your fuel pump? If you've got a break in the line between the fuel tank and fuel pump you could be sucking air.
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Junior User
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From: Dinwiddie, VA
Ok, so I raised the fuel pressure! First to 5psi and it ran a little better, then raised it to 7psi which I guess is as far as this mechanical fuel pump will go. Ran much better then but was still cutting back around the 50 mph area made it to 55 once but that was downhill! Any options for a high volume fuel pumps? Do you think making any float adjustments on the carb would help? Just curious. This is my first time with the weber carb so I am clueless!
FTE Legend
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From: Northeast, OK
There is at least one more possibility - float drop. I don't know about that carb at all, but Carter/Edelbrocks have an adjustment on the float arm that limits how far it can pull the needle out of the seat - hence "float drop". I know from experience that too little drop can cause you to run out of fuel. Big time.
This would explain the symptoms. Assuming your carb has that adjustment.
This would explain the symptoms. Assuming your carb has that adjustment.
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From: In my own world
Good point Gary!
I used to have a lot of trouble with the side drafts on my MBG GT when I was a kid. seems to me there was an external adjustment screw on the floats. I don't really remember anymore, that was 45 years ago, lol
I used to have a lot of trouble with the side drafts on my MBG GT when I was a kid. seems to me there was an external adjustment screw on the floats. I don't really remember anymore, that was 45 years ago, lol
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
This link says:
Set it by bending the tabs, one is found on either side of the fulcrum pin in the float arm. The rear most which stops against the needle valve seat sets the amount of drop, while the inner one nearest the float sets the needle into the closed position. The needle will contain a ball on a spring, the damping of that spring is not to be considered in the closed position adjustment. Only the amount of travel of the needle prior to the damping.
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