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I pulled all the injectors today and found that all the seals looked fine and each of the injectors was re-manufactured, but had no cracks or visible deformities. To be honest, I was happy that they came out ok. I used an old vacuum with a garden hose taped to the end and sucked out all the oil. Worked great!
I replaced the bent rods on #2 from the front piston on the drivers side and replaced the cracked caseing that was holding the rocker arm (secured by 2 8mm bolts).
How can you tell if injectors are bad? Or am I casing the wrong rabbit hole for my fuel in the crankcase?
What tests can I do to tell? I was really hoping to find some bad seals that fell apart in my hand or when getting them off. They came off well and even when I pulled on them hard, they didn't break or show any brittle behaviour.
I have all the new Ford seal kits in hand but didn't install in case I need new injector (s).
Replaced injector seals a few weeks ago and it was not a hard job at all. I kept every thing very very clean and used food grade veg oil to lube everything. Used an old vacuum to clean out the cylinders from hydro locking and cranked the engine by hand and then bumped it before putting the injectors in.
They go in very well with veg oil!
Now after 2 weeks the fuel no longer leaks into the crank! YEA, but the passenger side must be have gotten bumped electrically because now the entire side isn't firing, only the drivers side. I've checked external fittings, and it must be inside. I hear the wires get brittle... True?????
A dead bank is good indication the harness going thru the valve cover gasket is not making connection. Here's a thread with some info and pics: 50 Cent Mod or clips. Typically the harness gets loose and loses continuity on the inside of the valve cover, but could be wires outside, etc. Not a complicated fix, search on 50 cent mod or UVCH. Could also be the harness to the 42 pin connector shorting on the driver side valve cover
Ford V8s are odd numbered on the right (pass) side and even on the left (driver) side. So pass side is 1,3,5,7 front to back and driver side 2,4,6,8. So the #2 on driver side is the #4 cylinder. FYI.
And a pic with sensor names, and below that a wiring diagram that may be useful:
Sweetness! Thanks for the pointers. Living in North Pole doesn't lend itself to lots of help so thanks again.
I'll dig into this tonight and hope all day it's just that connection!
This project has been kicking my shins for over 3 months!
Fixed!!
No more fuel in crankcase as of yet
Passenger side works after the 50 cent fix clip reconnected
You guys played a major role in this
Thanks a golden ton from North Pole Ak
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