possible fuel float fix??
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possible fuel float fix??
Hi y'all, back again with another not so urgent matter.
Vehicle: '64 F100 292 y-block bored to 302, 3 on the tree tranny w/OD
Fuel gauge reads empty all the time, I've tested the sending unit, it check out ok, gauge reads when I tough positive to ground from sending unit as well, so I've come up with the decision that the float is no longer floating, gas has made its way inside and sunk it to the bottom.
What I'm wondering is if anyone has come up with a temporary fix, I don't exactly have the time to run down to the next town to get a new one at the moment, and don't believe in banks, so I have no card to order one online, only cash for me.
Any help is much appreciated and thanked for in advance!!
Vehicle: '64 F100 292 y-block bored to 302, 3 on the tree tranny w/OD
Fuel gauge reads empty all the time, I've tested the sending unit, it check out ok, gauge reads when I tough positive to ground from sending unit as well, so I've come up with the decision that the float is no longer floating, gas has made its way inside and sunk it to the bottom.
What I'm wondering is if anyone has come up with a temporary fix, I don't exactly have the time to run down to the next town to get a new one at the moment, and don't believe in banks, so I have no card to order one online, only cash for me.
Any help is much appreciated and thanked for in advance!!
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Can I use a propane torch with flux core solder?? Because that's all I have available at the moment. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. Also, any way to identify where the holes could be?? My best assumption is that theyre likely pinhole leaks that the float has as when I held up the float, it appeared to be full of fuel, but no fuel leaked out, possible quicker way to drain besides drilling??
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Stick it in a fire. The fuel will come out rather quickly... 
JUST KIDDING!
It can be soldered but be VERY careful. If the float has fuel in it, you will need to make sure its completely dried out. The ones I have seen that need repair are usually leaking at the solder joint. Solder breaks down over the years. The brass itself usually doesn't but its possible I guess.
If there is fuel in it, drill two holes. One on each side and use compressed air to blow it out. I than usually fill it with water and blow it out again. Than you can use your torch to heat it up (carefully) to dry it out. I like to just lay new solder over the joint. Use a lot of acid to clean the old solder. It also allows the new solder to stick.
Again, be very careful. I've heard of those things blowing up. NOT a pleasant thought.
JUST KIDDING!It can be soldered but be VERY careful. If the float has fuel in it, you will need to make sure its completely dried out. The ones I have seen that need repair are usually leaking at the solder joint. Solder breaks down over the years. The brass itself usually doesn't but its possible I guess.
If there is fuel in it, drill two holes. One on each side and use compressed air to blow it out. I than usually fill it with water and blow it out again. Than you can use your torch to heat it up (carefully) to dry it out. I like to just lay new solder over the joint. Use a lot of acid to clean the old solder. It also allows the new solder to stick.
Again, be very careful. I've heard of those things blowing up. NOT a pleasant thought.
Ford Parts Specialist
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Why repair a leaky float when a new float is available cheap?
Fuel sending unit float (COAZ-9202-B) made from two pieces of copper soldered together.
Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float settles to the bottom of the tank.
Float available from Ford, same: 1957/79 Passenger Cars/Trucks - 1961/79 Econolines - 1966/79 Bronco's.
Carpenter sells a replacement one piece brass float for 5 bucks that'll never leak.
Fuel sending unit float (COAZ-9202-B) made from two pieces of copper soldered together.
Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float settles to the bottom of the tank.
Float available from Ford, same: 1957/79 Passenger Cars/Trucks - 1961/79 Econolines - 1966/79 Bronco's.
Carpenter sells a replacement one piece brass float for 5 bucks that'll never leak.
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Thank you Masked Rider for your input, as I'd like to take as much precaution as possible, when using open flame near an item that possibly has fuel in it after I believe its dried out, I might just take the float out, drill a small hole or two and instead of cleaning out with water ill use alcohol as it evaporates faster than water does.
And Number Dummy I'm not sure if you read my whole first post or skimmed through it, but the only place I can get a new float is the next town over. I cannot and I mean CANNOT order one online as much as I would love to for the convienence, I don't trust banks and don't deal with electronic payment, or try to as little as possible, and when I do I go to the market and purchase an international visa gift card, which then sucks because I can't get the unused money back off of it. I prefer to only deal with cash, or at the very least ill give a buddy cash and they use their card online.
And Number Dummy I'm not sure if you read my whole first post or skimmed through it, but the only place I can get a new float is the next town over. I cannot and I mean CANNOT order one online as much as I would love to for the convienence, I don't trust banks and don't deal with electronic payment, or try to as little as possible, and when I do I go to the market and purchase an international visa gift card, which then sucks because I can't get the unused money back off of it. I prefer to only deal with cash, or at the very least ill give a buddy cash and they use their card online.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Post Falls, ID
I just did this with my carb float. Like TMR stated, drill a tiny hole top and bottom, drain, flush with carb cleaner or brake cleaner (something that you are sure will evaporate quickly and completely), blow out with LOW PRESSURE compressed air (as to not create a new leak by over-expanding it), flux and solder. To be on the safe side, you may want to stick it in the oven at a low temp for a few minutes to make sure everything is dry. Weight it down in a bucket of water for an hour or two to make sure it doesn't fill back up before re-installing.
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Thank you fcwoodworking for the added advice!! I'll get right on this project today, and hopefullyhave my fuel gauge reading for the first time in about 15 years (gauge stopped working while my grandpa still owned the truck) and can get on with restoring this truck once I knock the little stuff out of the way.
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Since I don't know what town in CA you live in, I cannot tell you what Ford Dealers close by might have the COAZ-9202-B float.
There are two close to CA FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsors that give parts discounts to FTE members: silverstatefordparts.com (Gaudin Ford-Las Vegas NV), horizonpartsguy.com (Horizon Ford-Seattle WA).
There are at least 6 sources in CA that sell repro truck parts, and since Falcon/Mustang/T-Bird, etc use the same float, there's dozens of Mustang/T-Bird resto shops in CA, any/all might have DC's 5 buck and/or COAZ float.
US Postal Money Orders accepted anywhere in the US, and some sources will still allow customers to order parts COD, though that can be expensive, due to increased shipping charges.
btw: Whether you fix the old float or replace it, consider this: C1TF-9276-A Cork Gasket-Sending Unit to Fuel Tank.
Cork shrinks over time, if you use the old gasket over again, you may get fuel vapors in the cab. Not pleasant! But, if you soak the old gasket in HOT water, this rejuvenates it, can be reused.
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I read your statements that you don't trust banks or electronic payments.
Since I don't know what town you live in (I did look to see what state you're in), I cannot tell you what Ford Dealers close by might have the float.
There are two close to CA FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsors that give parts discounts to FTE members. silverstatefordparts.com (Gaudin Ford in Las Vegas NV), horizonpartsguy.com (Horizon Ford in Seattle WA).
Plus, there are at least 6 sources in CA that sell repro parts, any/all might have DC's 5 buck float.
US Postal Money Orders accepted anywhere in the US, and some sources will still allow customers to order parts COD, though that can be expensive, due to increased shipping charges.
Since I don't know what town you live in (I did look to see what state you're in), I cannot tell you what Ford Dealers close by might have the float.
There are two close to CA FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsors that give parts discounts to FTE members. silverstatefordparts.com (Gaudin Ford in Las Vegas NV), horizonpartsguy.com (Horizon Ford in Seattle WA).
Plus, there are at least 6 sources in CA that sell repro parts, any/all might have DC's 5 buck float.
US Postal Money Orders accepted anywhere in the US, and some sources will still allow customers to order parts COD, though that can be expensive, due to increased shipping charges.
I do apologize if I put the last message out as putting you down, just wasnt sure if you had fully read my original post, as I've seen many people just chime in without even knowing what they're responding to, so again my apologies.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Post Falls, ID
FWIW, I tried that on my float and I couldn't get it hot enough to fuse. It would melt the solder where it touched the gun, but the brass conducts the heat away from the area way too quickly.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I live up in South lake Tahoe, the closes place that sells the float is about an hour and a half drive almost to Reno, NV they have the float for $4.95 but two issues 1) I don't have the time to drive down there, and 2) the truck has extremely worn steering components (i have roughly 5 inches of play in the steering wheel) and it pulls to the right really bad,
I'm going to do a driveway alignment one of these days, to majority wise get it to drive straight, then replace the outer tie rod ends and the kingpin bolts, along with the steering stabilizer.
Also replace the draglink. I've never seen or heard of a steering stabilizer for these trucks. It's an aftermarket add-on installed by front end shops and/or RV dealers.
And when one falls out of the sky ill replace the steering gear which is nearly impossible to find apparently.
I'm going to do a driveway alignment one of these days, to majority wise get it to drive straight, then replace the outer tie rod ends and the kingpin bolts, along with the steering stabilizer.
Also replace the draglink. I've never seen or heard of a steering stabilizer for these trucks. It's an aftermarket add-on installed by front end shops and/or RV dealers.
And when one falls out of the sky ill replace the steering gear which is nearly impossible to find apparently.
What's the rush to fix or replace the float? It's probably been history for years, doesn't affect driving the truck, as long as you keep some gas in the tank.
Ah yes, Concours Parts in Carson City, I've known Larry for over 40 years. Prior to moving to NV, circa 1987...he sold Larry's Mustang/Thunderbird Parts located in Fullerton to a LDS father/son team, their last name was Money. I know this, cuz they offered me a parts counter job, I told them I wasn't interested, was the P/M of SM L/M making 6 grand + a month, plus I got a new car (Cougar) to drive.
And, speaking of long travel time, who in their right mind would wanna drive to Fullerton and back 6 days a week in horrid freeway traffic if they lived in Santa Monica? Not I.
If Larry has it, I would think that Sacramento Vintage Ford would too. Both will accept US Postal Money Orders.
Jones-West Ford in Reno has 2 COAZ-9202-B, but its MSRP is $15.94.
redheadsteeringgears.com located in Seattle WA can overhaul your steering gearbox, most of the parts are available NOS if you wanna fix it yourself.
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Might not be a steering stabilizer, just a shock absorber attached into the steering system, thought that was a stabilizer might be wrong, and yes concours is the place I was referring to, I looked into tie rod ends and the cheapest ones run about $45 each side at kragen. I know I have my work cut out for me, but I enjoy doing things myself, if all is succesful or not I will be replying back to this thread with results, thank you everyone for the advice/help
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Kragen formerly owned by Checker Auto Parts who also owned Shucks. Several years ago, O'Reilly's bought out Checker. Around here, all the Kragen's have been replaced by O'Reilly's.