WW2 is it worth it?
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WW2 is it worth it?
Thinking about dismantling and cleaning engine valley. Re-sealing intake manifold, plenum inserts, and new boots from RR. Since I will have the turbo off should I go ahead and install the WW2 also? I have the 1.0 housing and EBV deleted already. Truck has 265k and thinking about larger injectors next year nothing crazy 160's or maybe one step bigger. I do tow on a regular basis and I do fight a little surge. I know this horse as been beat to death just wanting some fresh opinions from some who have had this setup for a while and tow and work their truck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Is there any reason you believe the intake plenums are leaking? I've never touched mine and see no reason to unless you think there's a problem or are trying to upgrade to different plenums.
Changing boots may not be a bad idea. Be sure to check the up pipes too for any signs of a leak. You can also build a boost leak detector if you think you're having boost leak issues.
Changing boots may not be a bad idea. Be sure to check the up pipes too for any signs of a leak. You can also build a boost leak detector if you think you're having boost leak issues.
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New up-pipes at BTS this spring when transmission was out. Took the intercooler boots off today and they looked good. Should you be able to see a problem? I don't even know if I have a problem just thinking about a 14 yr old truck with 260k and I'm gonna try for at least another 200k. Have had some fuel leaks and thinking of tearing down the valley and cleaning engine. Just thinking while I'm this far......might as well reseale intake and install the plenum inserts and new boots on intake. I'm thinking I may leave intercooler boots alone.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
I wouldn't install the tinny intake plenums with weak throats if you're looking to eventually power up that much. With all the hassle of yanking, cleaning, RTVing, getting it on there just right, and installing inserts - for the sake of having fresh RTV staring down stage IIs and a WW2... I'd get billet plenums (O-ring seals, no RTV). {oh wait... I did}
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Post Fiend
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From: Texas
I've got over 450,000 miles on my stock intake plenums with no leaks. Something to consider if your goal is only 460k.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: North Georgia
So...
Im stepping on a few tippy toes.
Tugly:
Yes... the billet plenums are pretty...
But when you are talking about a manifold only having to hold in 40-50psi,
The oem sheet metal has more than adequate tensile strength.
I cant justify spending the money for the billet for seal issues...
Properly applied... the grey go works beautifully.
Another nifty thing about steel...
It bends if its limits are tested.
Billet Aluminum breaks and crumbles.
Just sayin.
And this is digging deep in the "chris really trying to convince himself he doesnt want billet plenums bag" but...
When the inside surfaces... (the ones that the boosted air contact) start to oxidize... where is the aluminum oxide dust that vibrates off going to go? *shudder*
Im stepping on a few tippy toes.
Tugly:
Yes... the billet plenums are pretty...
But when you are talking about a manifold only having to hold in 40-50psi,
The oem sheet metal has more than adequate tensile strength.
I cant justify spending the money for the billet for seal issues...
Properly applied... the grey go works beautifully.
Another nifty thing about steel...
It bends if its limits are tested.
Billet Aluminum breaks and crumbles.
Just sayin.
And this is digging deep in the "chris really trying to convince himself he doesnt want billet plenums bag" but...
When the inside surfaces... (the ones that the boosted air contact) start to oxidize... where is the aluminum oxide dust that vibrates off going to go? *shudder*
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: OKC, OK
FYI I put on a Ww2 and a hfo (high flow outlet) hoping for lower egts and it did nothing .
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I have the hfo and I did notice a drop in egt's when pulling trailer and pulling long grade instead of temps going to 1250 and beyond now I hit about 1150 and holds there. May inch to 1200 in extreme cases. I also replaced up-pipes at same time and a BTS so it may be combo of everything. Even if it doesn't lower egt's but gives me a little more low-end spool and solves the surge I think it would be worth it. Did it do that for you?
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Senior User
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I have the hfo and I did notice a drop in egt's when pulling trailer and pulling long grade instead of temps going to 1250 and beyond now I hit about 1150 and holds there. May inch to 1200 in extreme cases. I also replaced up-pipes at same time and a BTS so it may be combo of everything. Even if it doesn't lower egt's but gives me a little more low-end spool and solves the surge I think it would be worth it. Did it do that for you?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
Christo13T - this is an interesting debate and you bring up great things to consider. Without pooh-poohing the idea of staying with original hardware, I will add more to consider:
$0.02
- The billet plenums are coated, inside and out. I am unsure if it's anodized, but I saw no exposed aluminum.
- The inside of the boost system has oil vapor, greatly reducing the chance of corrosion anywhere.
- The originally-engineered RTV worked for years at stock boost, but I blew my RTV seal... with stock sticks and turbo. I now have even more boost with the 38R and AC160s.
- The stock intake plenums need to be modified with an insert to take the better boots and clamps, which I did... right before I was forced to yank the whole thing and start over with billet plenums.
- There's no guarantee that the strain of forcing those sturdy boots onto the intake plenum with the angles of the spider won't introduce a lifted plenum seal... since the original plenums flex. The billet plenums are... shall we say... less flexible. My seal was damaged right next to the neck of the old plenum.
$0.02
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
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From: north of Minneapolis, MN
The billet part appears to be black anodized.
Rich...you can test the plenums to see if they are indeed anodized...get out your multimeter, and just check for continuity (a black area to another black area). Anodizing is non-conductive.
Rich...you can test the plenums to see if they are indeed anodized...get out your multimeter, and just check for continuity (a black area to another black area). Anodizing is non-conductive.