I got my 7.3 Excurstion back in May. I've slowly been working through the different maintaince issues and bringing the truck back to quality.

I'm now focusing on the Turbo/Exhaust area; I have a few questions I need assistance on. I live in Oklahoma, we can get cold with days in the Teens and every couple of years we get a very good snow. I think this will be one of those years.

During this, I'll replace all intercooler boots, Plenum inserts, Bellowed Up-pipes, 4" turbo back straight exhaust, Foil Delete, CCV Mod adding Gauges.

Turbo Specific:

Going to rebuild with a new compressor wheel from RR, but Which Wheel?

I don't know if I have any play right now, but assuming I don't, do I rebuild with a new center cartridge, new shaft, or just the standard rebuild kit?

EBPV - Do I eliminate this? How much of an issue will this be during winter?

AIH Delete - I read the specifics of when this kicks in, but I like the delete plug with the Boost port Tap. Any concerns during Winter?

Spyder, Collector, Exhaust clamps... Should they be replaced?

I'm looking for feedback as when I have the hood up with the truck running, I can see a leak of exhaust gases, faint, but it's there. The intake side of the turbo houseing get's an oily residue on it, so I know it's on the intake side. Everything clap I can find it tight, but something is leaking. The truck still makes good power and I don't hear any sucking at the turbo, but I haven't made the 3" cap to check for leaks. Just planned on doing the service work to fix it all regardless.

Looking at the above, anything I'm missing or need to pay closer attention to?

 

With the stock program, I would think you could stick with the stock compressor wheel, but if running hot tunes, and especially if you tow, you might want a wheel that reduces/eliminates surge, or go with the ATS compressor housing like i did - also reduces surge, but does not sacrifice boost.

Should not need the AIH - I deleted mine. I'm told it just kicks in after long idle periods in cold weather to reduce emissions. It makes a good boost location, although some say pre-intercooler is better, so I just put in the solid AIH cap, and tapped a boost sensor in the spider at the turbo exit.

I deleted the EBPV, but I'm in a mild climate. You might want to rebuild the actuator if leaking and keep it for faster warm up. I may add mine back to use as an exhaust brake. I pulled it and put in the EBPV delete turbo pedestal to eliminate that source of oil leak, and help with EGTs. It's debatable how effective it was.

 

Unless you find the exhaust and compressor wheels dinged up and missing fins, you won't need a new shaft. If you replace the compressor wheel with a new one, you "should" have the assembly balanced. Most do not. You just need the standard rebuild kit with new bearings, thrust washer and oil seals. Jeff is correct, in that you will not "need" the AIH unless you idle your truck in cold weather for long periods of time. Oklahoma winters should not cause you problems if you delete the EBPV. It just slows down the warm-up process a little if it gets really cold. Your collector will be replaced when you do your bellowed up-pipes. The new pipes will come with a new collector at the top. It is also known as the "baby's butt". The spider does not need to be replaced....just clean it up with a wire wheel on a die grinder and it will look like new.

Some who have gone with the "new and improved" wheels are finding them to be rather loud.

 

Thank you both for the comments.

Nicmike, which 4" turbo back exhaust did you chose? I had decided on the Diamond Eye stainless steel, but after reading more there are comments about it not being bent correctly and the firewall needing to be modified.

Any tips?

Regarding the compressor wheel, I would like a little more whistle when on the skinny, but we travel in the Ex so I don't want to upset the family. My current wheel is dusted, all fins present, just rounded on the edges. That's why I'm looking at the rebuild. So a stock wheel? Borg wheel? RR wheel?

Just looking for experience.

 

I used the DE aluminized 4" turbo back. I did run into some minor fitment problems over the rear axle, but I just cut an inch off each end of the bent piece that goes up and over the axle. Took one minute with a sawzall and problem solved. I welded the joint right behind the tank, because there is not enough room for a clamp in there (MIG welder) without it hitting the shock or the tank. I also cut an angle into the tip rather then buying an after market tip. I am happy with it overall, especially considering the price point. I did not have to modify my firewall. The 4" down-pipe fit great.

I am fortunate enough to be running my stock compressor wheel. It has very little wear on it, so I am not going to change it any time soon. After rebuilding my stock turbo, my truck will hit 25 psi before the waste gate opens. That is plenty of boost for stock injectors. I am still waiting for the real world opinions to come in on the WW2 and RR wheels before I go jumping on that band wagon. There is still a lot hype being pushed out while the sellers try to convince folks to give them a try.

 

Delete the EBPV and AIH and don't worry about it. People way farther North than you, and in much colder climates have done the same with no issues. The AIH is meant to help with smoke at cold idle, not performance. The EBPV delete will slow down the warm up period, but not by much.

 

I'd buy the RR2W. Why buy the old design when the new improved is out there. Let us know what you do.