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I've got a C6 in my truck that's been doing well. It had a professional rebuild about 40k-50k ago. Running a 1973 460 for the last year and put about 9k miles on it. In July I swapped engines to a 1971 460 and at the same time drained all of the transmission fluid and replaced filter, but the front pump rebuilt with new gears bushings and seals, and replaced the torque converter. When I drained it there was a little bit of grey "dust" in it, but VERY minimal. I could also see a little bit of it on the dipstick before I changed the fluid. Now that I've changed the fluid (and other mentioned stuff), I still see a little bit of that "dust" material on the dipstick but the fluid looks good. Is this normal for my transmission? Can this come from the new torque converter "wearing-in"?
I'm guessing that even though I drained the transmission that there's still some of that type of stuff on parts that just got into the new fluid. Transmission seems to shift fine and operate well, just figured I should ask just in case there's something possibly wrong.
That might make more wear. The band should be adjusted correctly.
Okay. What defines "adjusted correctly"? I've never adjusted it. Probably no need to adjust it and I don't plan on doing it, but I'd like to learn about it and what the adjustment does. Could you give a brief explanation or link me to a good source? I want to learn more about the C6
I don't have a link. The band is used for second gear. It has to be adjusted properly so that it doesn't drag and isn't too loose to be able to hold the drum. If you just loosen it a hair it may not hold, and then it will wear out in the first few miles of driving.
Loosen the lock nut and back it off enough to tighten the adjusting screw to 10 lb/ft, then back out the screw 1.5 turns. while holding the adjustment screw, tighten the lock nut to 35 lb/ft. Make sure the adjustment screw does not move while torquing the lock nut.
I don't have a link. The band is used for second gear. It has to be adjusted properly so that it doesn't drag and isn't too loose to be able to hold the drum. If you just loosen it a hair it may not hold, and then it will wear out in the first few miles of driving.
Loosen the lock nut and back it off enough to tighten the adjusting screw to 10 lb/ft, then back out the screw 1.5 turns. while holding the adjustment screw, tighten the lock nut to 35 lb/ft. Make sure the adjustment screw does not move while torquing the lock nut.
Thanks for that explanation. Mine's been fine for a lot of miles since I've had it so I'm not going to adjust it since it seems like there's a fine line between a good and bad setting.
Also, what is the small (looks like about a 7/16) screw/bolt to the left of the band adjustment?
Okay thanks. Didn't know if that was some sort of adjustment too.
Also, I've been thinking of putting in a trans temp gauge. How would you recommend connecting the sender? Just with a "T" fitting? Is there a port on the transmission anywhere? I've seen some aftermarket pans with a temp sender spot. Also, if I use a "T", do I want to put it before or after the coolers?
When I get my trans temp gauge, what sort of temps should I be looking at using the test port? Most of my running is either backroads at @45-50 or 55-65 on single and dual lane roads if that matters. Not sure on the stall on the converter, but it's stock for a 1973 Lincoln.