When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey,
My Truck runs fine,Trans shifts right for about 6 miles,Then the trans acts like it's overheating and it won't hold gear.Have changed the fluid and filter and torque convertor, And that didn't help,Any ideas? Thanks Lisa!!!
This is an off the top WAG but sounds like a blocked/crimped/damaged cooler line.
Was the old fluid really dark and burnt smelling?
Has the new fluid discolored already?
How long have you had this truck?
Who serviced the transmission ... yourself, friend, quickee oil change place , knowledgeable technician?
Hey,
Thanks for the input! Yes the fluid was dark and burnt smelling, And the new fluid is starting to get dark now.We bought it as a repo, and serviced it at home, the filter screen was plugged up on one end.We replaced the torque convertor when we seen that the fluid was so dark.What do you suggest?
Thanks! Lisa.
Well...since the fluid was dark and is turning dark, your tranny is overheating. Your best bet would be to take out the valvebody, clean it up, inspect it for any signs of wear, reassemble and reinstall it.
Hey,
Thanks! We are trying to figure out why it is over heating.We think it might have something to do with the cooler.Whoever had the truck last,sure didn't try to take care of it at all! Any suggestions on how to flush the cooler? Or can it be flushed? Thanks!! Lisa.
I used a cooler flush system once (a while ago). It was a pressurized can of some kind of solvent that had a fitting on one end. Disconnect both ends of the trans line and connect the can to one side and press the valve until nothing but clear (soapy) solvent comes out....then do it in reverse.
This was like 10 years ago and I don't remember the brand, but it worked great. I got it at a transmission shop after I blew out the band on my 700R4 in my IROC (too much power from my built motor).
I know it's short on the details, but I hope that helps out a little bit...
My suggestion is to take this sucker into a good transmission shop that you trust and have them go through it and tell you what is wrong. Basically, how did the fluid get so burnt? It could be something more serious like a burnt clutch pack or slipping band that needs attention.
Could cooler at the front could be clogged on the outside with dirt and bugs along with your radiator. It may not be getting enough air. Step dad had that problem in his '92 f150. He basically burned the tranny up cause the cooler was plugged in the front.
How much sediment was in the pan? if there was a lot, or was in any kind of straight line formation, rebuild required. Some sediment is alway normal, but that's not alot, if you could run your finger through it and really feel it, that's too much.
My suggestion is to take this sucker into a good transmission shop that you trust and have them go through it and tell you what is wrong.
I will definetly second that suggestion.
For regular transmission servicing I've been using the Wynn's system in my vehicles for a few years now and believe it's the only way to go. Clyde's C6 gets the treatment every couple years. I don't put on a lot of miles, but they're hard ones.
It starts out with the addition of a cleaner that is curculated through the entire tranny, including all the ports and passages and then the old fluid is pumped out as the new stuff, with an additive for seal rejuvination, etc., replaces it.
IMHO the old "drop the pan, replace the filter and add fluid" routine is akin to changing the engine oil filter and just replacing the quart that was in the filter. Think about it ...
So, say I think the valve bodies in my c6 are "sticky" in my tranny cause it doesn't downshift to second after turning a corner. It stays in 3rd gear even only going 15-15 mph. Will this Wynn's help clean those supposedly "sticky" valve bodies. Is it something you run for a while and then drop or does it just stay in there with the regular tranny fluid all the time?
I've already changed the tranny fluid, filter, drained the torque converter, and changed the vacuum modulator. It downshifts fine on the highway and from a stop light it'll drop to 1st like it should. I kinda gave up on fixing it figuring I'd wait to try cleaning the valve bodies whenever the tranny had to come out again.
Will this Wynn's help clean those supposedly "sticky" valve bodies.
I can't tell you that it will , but I can sure say it won't hurt to try it ... that is except for the cost of having it done. Our dealership starts at $120 and varies upward according to fluid type and quanity.
The way it works is the machine is hooked into the cooler line loop and the vehicle is run so the tranny fluid (with the cleaner additive added) circulates through everything. We run it on a hoist so we can lift the wheels off the ground and actually "run it through the gears" and all the related ports and passage, etc. The machine uses two tanks, new fluid with a Wynn's additive in one and a "dump tank" for the old, dirty fluid.
After the old fluid w/cleaner has circulated sufficiently a valve is thrown which uses the new stuff w/additiveto push the old stuff (with the cleaner, sludge and varnish in suspension) out of the system into the "dump tank". Almost a 100% fluid change.
I did Clyde's filter on the first "go round" and have done the "flush & fill" since. It seems to shift firmer and smoother (sounds like a contradiction), I think ... for me ... it was money well spent.
Used to perform this same process at a "quick lube" facility. Works great and you can really see the difference. Our "machine" had a clear tube where you could see the new fluid going out and the old coming back in. Rarely did the two look alike.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.