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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 06:01 AM
  #31  
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This would explain many ICP issues. I'd be interested in seeing your ICP after you replace your pump.

Have you already done the air-backwards-through-the-pump thing? You have verified over 13V at idle?
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 07:16 AM
  #32  
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I don't think this was my icp issue. The pump was fine until the other day. Yep and yep, it's toast. I pulled everything apart yesterday to verify that it is infact the pump and nota block in the system anywhere
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 07:39 AM
  #33  
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not to get too OT, but when i'm "on" D2..(until wvo gets to temp), bang'n at steady 60-62psi,..(reading pre-pump, but did the same thing when reading was post-pump), when depressing the clutch or coming to a stop, my IDLE will go down to 500-ish, then bounce back up. Almost to the point of dying. HOWEVER, when on WVO, it NEVER does that, and that set at 70psi.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #34  
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Timmyboy I wish that were the problem I'm having. After blowing out all lines my truck still sits at 52 psi. I had to cycle the key about 10 times to get it to read pressure on my gauge. The pump would only stay on for a few seconds at a time
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 02:49 PM
  #35  
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Replaced my pump with the $38 Ebay pump. Still get the drop at WOT, but pressure holding at 59 psi while cruising. Drops down into the 30 psi range at WOT. But, my stock pump went on the fritz yesterday with the fuel pressure bouncing all over between 15-57 psi while driving at 65 mph, so I know it was going bad. Wish I had a fuel psi gauge prior to FRx install, now I'm gonna have to pull it off and see what happens to pressure at WOT without it. I need to get this sorted out before I can even look at new injectors. You making any progress, John?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 02:56 PM
  #36  
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No progress here yet. Mine is still alive sick but alive. What spring did you go with when you put the frx on?

EDIT: My fuel pressure gauge tops out at 100 psi. when I'm not on the skinny pedal. At an idle crusing down the road anytime I'm not making any boost. When I am making boost it drops to 60 instantly then if I get out of it it goes back to 100. If I keep my foot in it it drops down to nothing and I feel the power nose dive... It's the strangest thing.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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It sounds like your spring is out of place. I used the gold spring and my pressure rests at about 60 PSI.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 05:15 PM
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I used the middle spring. I checked it, and it is in there correctly. Too much fuel is being routed back to the tank is all that is left for me to check/verify. When I first put this FRx in, I was at 62 psi. Within a month I was at 57....then down to 52....then pumped started dying yesterday. Put new pump in, and I'm at 59 idling now. Probably going to pull the FRx this week for comparison runs. At least I know 59 is good with Rich's numbers to compare to. My psi drops twice as much as his at WOT, and he has bigger injectors. Something isn't adding up there...
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 03:12 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Nicmike
My psi drops twice as much as his at WOT, and he has bigger injectors. Something isn't adding up there...
I had this symptom when the suction side of the pump had issues. In my case, my filtration was too aggressive, so I switched to a fuel strainer.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 03:15 AM
  #40  
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I tried the fuel strainer already. 100 microns. Made no difference at all. I am back to the B1212 that came with the Hutch mod kit. To top it off, my fan clutch pooped out on me. It is locked up all the time, and my MPG's are headed downhill. I think I am going to just pull it off and explore electric fans. It never ends...

But I love this truck!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 08:32 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Nicmike
To top it off, my fan clutch pooped out on me. It is locked up all the time, and my MPG's are headed downhill. I think I am going to just pull it off and explore electric fans.
I would fix the fan clutch. The power it takes to get that much cooling air flow can't be achieved electrically... unless you can find a 5 HP (about what your fan takes now) 12 VDC electric motor that will fit. Have you ever seen a 5HP electric motor? I have.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 10:20 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
I would fix the fan clutch. The power it takes to get that much cooling air flow can't be achieved electrically... unless you can find a 5 HP (about what your fan takes now) 12 VDC electric motor that will fit. Have you ever seen a 5HP electric motor? I have.
After a little research last night, I came to the same conclusion...
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 04:12 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Nicmike
I tried the fuel strainer already. 100 microns. Made no difference at all. I am back to the B1212 that came with the Hutch mod kit. To top it off, my fan clutch pooped out on me. It is locked up all the time, and my MPG's are headed downhill. I think I am going to just pull it off and explore electric fans. It never ends...

But I love this truck!
The clutch rarely fails so it locks up 100%....hopefully yours has some slip still. If not, then you might want to address it sooner than later because a fully locked up fan clutch can spin itself off the water pump when the engine shuts off. If that happens, it can damage the blades or possibly even the radiator.

According to an article in one of the fleet publications, cooling fans in over the road trucks can draw anywhere between 10-70 hp. The Navistar 444 series list the cooling fan at 25-27 hp when fully locked up. I presume it's similar for the Super Duty trucks...
That number feels about right to me. I recently was pulling over 30k gross Eastbound on I-10 between Indo and Blythe and I could feel the loss of power when the fan clutch locked up. I would have to give it a bit more throttle to maintain my 65 mph speed and then back off when the fan clutch released. Flat land is hard to notice but I was going uphill at the time so it caught my attention.

If you decide to try out electric fans then you will want to keep the mechanical fan stored in the truck (in case you want to tow anything from time to time...).
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #44  
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From what I've read and been told it's hard to beat the electric fans on a late 90s sable/Taurus
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 04:54 PM
  #45  
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I appreciate the input. It is locked up all the time if under 1600 rpms. If I come to a stop, it locks back up till I get up to 1600 and it lets go. In the short term, I am going to just pull it off until I can get another Motorcraft replacement. Rock Auto as four left at $178. I'm not towing anything until I can get it replaced, and the temps here are all the way down into the low 90s. Fall is in the air!
 
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