For the last few days, my Ranger has been acting quirky during starts. About half the time, it starts normally. For the other half of the time, though, I can hear the starter engage, but the engine doesn't turn-over. When it does this, the smell of unburnt fuel is pretty strong.

A few months ago, I noticed the battery terminals were pretty corroded, so I cleaned them. I looked at the terminals today, and they were a little corroded, but not much. However, when I took the lead terminals themselves off the positive and negative cables, there was a lot of corrosion where the positive cable clamps to the lead terminal. The corrosion wasn't noticeable until I unbolted the cables from the terminals, but the positive cable was SO corroded, I'm a little suprised the battery was charging at all. I cleaned the cables, clamps, and battery posts and used a bit of dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

Since I cleaned the battery cables/posts, I've run the truck for about an hour, but start-ups are still sometimes quirky (starter engages, but engine doesn't turn-over).

Could the starter be going bad? Maybe the teeth on the starter and/or the flywheel are damaged? Maybe a problem with the ignition system? Engine timing?

Truck info:
2003 Ranger 2WD 2.3L 5-spd 158k-miles

I've had the truck about 1.5-years with no issues except for a failing water pump a few months ago. The pump failed while I was on the road, but I pulled over immediately and shut-off the engine. It didn't overheat. I towed it home and changed the pump in the driveway.

I've only done the really neccessary maintenance on the truck since I bought it (checked all the fluids when I first bought it, changed the air filter, flushed the cooling system and put fresh 50/50 in, motor oil changes every 2500-mi). I have new spark plugs, wires, coil pack, and fuel filter that I plan to install this weekend. I'm not sure if the timing chain has ever been replaced, but I hear they're kind of a pain to change on this dohc motor.

 

Take your truck to an auto parts store (AutoZone, O'Reillys, for example) and ask them for a free check of the starting system. Do more diagnostic work before putting more money on parts for now.

Changing spark plugs and wire is a good idea, but be sure to use either Motorcraft or Autolite iridium plugs and Motorcraft wires. Ranger engines are fussy about the brand of plugs and wires that are used.

 

^+1 on checking the starter out & while your there, have them do an electrical system under load checkup with their portable electrical system tester. With all of the corrosion on the battery connections, it suggests a charging, or maybe a battery ageing problem. If you have removable battery cell caps, have you checked the battery electrolyte level????

 

I think the problem is definitely the starter. Sometimes, when starting, I hear the starter motor spin (a whirring noise), but the engine isn't turning over. I think this is because the diaphragm (or spring?) in the starter solenoid isn't pushing the bendix gear of the starter up so that it makes contact with the flywheel. I heard you can tap on the starter solenoid (NOT the starter itself-might damage magnets) to free-up the spring inside the solenoid. I haven't tried this, waiting to see what you guys say.

Would you all suggest I try rebuilding the starter and solenoid or should I just buy a new one. My local parts store wants $175 for a starter. I can get one online (amazon.com) shipped from DB Electrical out of Tennessee for $60 (+$5 shipping), and it has a full 1-year warranty.

As for the battery, I think the previous owner replaced the positive battery terminal clamp with a cheap one. All the corrosion was on the steel parts of the clamp. I replaced the clamp with what I think is a better quality one and the battery passed a diagnostic test at my local parts store. Plus, two weeks and no corrosion.

For the past couple of days, I've been roll-starting the truck (parking on a hill, then rolling down it and popping the clutch while in first) when I need to use it. I haven't tried using the starter because I heard a grinding noise for the first time a couple of days ago. Apparently the bendix gear of the starter wasn't making full contact with the flywheel. I only heard the grinding noise once (before it was just a whirring noise) and I haven't used the starter since. Hopefully I haven't damaged the flywheel.

 

Those replacement battery cable clamps are for temporary use only & are prone to all sorts of problems with voltage drop, so I'd look for an OEM quality replacement cable. You might do an under load voltage drop test at the starter, to see if its getting full battery voltage there. If its low, the starter solenoid & motor will be wimpy & maybe not work right.

If all that seems right, remove the starter & solenoid for inspection & or clean up of the bendix mechanicals & electrical connections & test them with battery jumper cables, or run them by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost bench test, before springing for those costly replacements. If the starter checks bad & you have a local rebuild shop, have them estimate repairs, you might be surprised!!!!

Let us know how it goes.

 

I did a voltage drop test while a friend cranked the engine and I saw a reading of 0.21-volts. I was told anything under 0.5V was acceptable. I replaced the cheap battery post clamp with a better quality clamp.

Removing the starter wasn't too bad. I just had to take out the plastic inner wheel well to get easy access to it. Once the starter was out of it, I tested it with jumper cables and the bendix gear isn't moving up like it should. It seems to be stuck in the down position. The teeth on the gear of the starter and the teeth on the flywheel (the ones that were visible) didn't look worn at all.

I bought the $60 starter from db electrical as mentioned above. I installed it and have been using it for a couple of weeks and it seems to be doing what it's supposed to.

If I get time, I might look into rebuilding the old starter to keep as a backup or to sell.

 

OK, good feedback, sounds like you have a good grip on the problem.

 

Thanks for all the help.

The worst part of the job was unbolting the factory starter. The bolts were really torqued and I couldn't get my big, clumsy impact wrench on them, so I had to drain the coolant and power steering fluid so I could move some hoses in order to get a long-handled 1/2" ratchet on them. It probably would have been easier if I had a smaller or low-profile impact wrench.

How important is it to use the plugs and wires that michigan66 suggested? I'm using Bosch plugs with Autolite wires and they seem to be doing the job. Since I replaced the wires, there is a noticeable difference in power, especially at low rpms while under load.

Next on the to-do list is an exhaust leak. It sounds like it's coming from around the exhaust manifold. A preliminary look-see turned up no obvious cracks anywhere, and it's a FL truck with no serious rust anywhere. I've heard somewhere that the stock exhaust manifold gasket is notorious for rotting-out for this motor. This weekend I'll try a rag-in-the-tailpipe test to try and locate the leak.

 

The wires don't bother me . But ... I have a 5 gallon bucket of Bosch plugs that I have pulled out of various autos because of no starts and misfires . Most are nearly new ! I would ditch them fast ! and get some Motorcraft or or NGK .

 

On the plugs, opt for the specified iridium enhanced finewire center electrode with platinum pad sidewire plugs, as they're designed to take the double work load our waste spark ignition system puts on them.

Gap the plugs with a wire gauge, to the low end of the gap spec, but go slow & ease up on the gap, to be careful & not force the gap gauge through a too tight gap, so as not to damage the finewire center electrode, or platinum pad on the side wire. Add a small amount of nickel anti-sieze to the threads & using a torque wrench, tighten them to the Low side of spec, to allow for the anti-sieze lube effect, so as to not overtighten them.