starter slow
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starter slow
I just rebuilt my 4.o for my 2wd, Auto transmission 94 Ranger. Got everything back together and the starter motor is really slow. I've cleaned the terminals, fully charged my battery. I even removed the spark plugs to remove any compression questions. Still slow. I pulled the starter and motor turns and solenoid engages fine. Could it be the starter just wont spin fast enough under a load? Also I wasn't quite sure where the negative cable from the battery connects to the engine. Seems like it's connected with one of the starter motor bolts.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Belleville, Ontario
Absolutely do not overlook the battery cables. A buddy of mine thought the starter was seized and put in a new one only to get the same results. I used my best booster cables to bypass the positive battery cable to prove that the lead was actually the problem.
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I replaced the starter, it was bad.......still same effect. I decided to remove the serpintine belt to see if I could turn the engine by hand...........keep in mind, I WAS ABLE TO MOVE THE CRANK COG WITH MY HANDS WHEN I WAS FITTING THE TRANSMISSION SPLINE INTO THE TORQUE CONVERTER, WHICH IS BOLTED TO THE FLYWHEEL............the engine is VERY HARD to turn.... thinking that I would see what happens if I rolled the truck in 1st gear (automatic transmission) I realized I couldn't get it out of "park" no matter how much I rocked the truck back and forth. Is there a possibility of the transmission being locked up, preventing the engine from turning?
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From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
Not with it in park, no. The engine should spin freely with the transmission in Park.
I have installed a torque converter on the flex plate and then bolted the transmission ~around it~ before.
Twice.
*Both Times* I didn't get the transmission pump lined up with the notches in the torque converter properly and locked the engine up, ruined the front pump, and the torque converter.
. . just something to think about . .
I have installed a torque converter on the flex plate and then bolted the transmission ~around it~ before.
Twice.
*Both Times* I didn't get the transmission pump lined up with the notches in the torque converter properly and locked the engine up, ruined the front pump, and the torque converter.
. . just something to think about . .
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I'm thinking that the transmission has something to do with it, Like I said I could turn the engine over before I connected it to the engine. Next step pull the transmission?
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From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
Originally posted by toolman7715
I'm thinking that the transmission has something to do with it, Like I said I could turn the engine over before I connected it to the engine. Next step pull the transmission?
I'm thinking that the transmission has something to do with it, Like I said I could turn the engine over before I connected it to the engine. Next step pull the transmission?
Unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate, slide it back a little, and see if the engine turns more freely.
DO NOT forget to take the battery cable off first
(sorry)
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Posting Guru
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From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
Originally posted by toolman7715
I'm assuming that I will be able to access the bolts where the starter sets into the transmission and there will be enough play in the converter to free the bolts from the plate?
I'm assuming that I will be able to access the bolts where the starter sets into the transmission and there will be enough play in the converter to free the bolts from the plate?
Remember to mark the converter to flex plate relationship . . or make sure your mark is still there from the last time . . and then yes, the torque converter will ~easily~ slide back enough to clear the flex plate.
. . unless it is jammed into the front pump
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From: Cleveland Area
Maybe the rebuild is tight enough that the battery does not have the juice to turn it over. Try jumping the starter with a more powerful battery in addition to the one you have. If the starter works the same then you know it is not the battery. Next try a new starter. I have never heard of an automatic tranny dragging down a engine start.
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A friend of mine told me to loosen the transmission to engine bolts about 1/4 to 1/2 inch out 'cause it could be binding up somehow so I did it and starter turns it over just fine now..................just wondering what it will do when I tighten them back, I'l do that tomorrow. By the way, I appreciate all the help
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I have removed the transmission and checked to make sure the torque converter is sitting in proper. I have 1 3/8" clearance from the base of the torque converter bolts to the edge of the transmission (the edge that butts to the engine). I have 1 3/8" between the engine edge and the outer face of the flywheel. Should fit snug......but once I try to install the transmission, I still have a 1/4" to a 1/2" gap between the engine and transmission. So when I tighten the transmission tight to the engine, it locks my engine up (engine turns fine without the transmission. torque converter spins fine on transmission)
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From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
It REALLY sounds like either the torque converter is not going all the way into the transmission, or the flex plate is sticking further off the back of the engine than it should.
Back out the trans until you can access thr front of it *easily* and slide the torque converter all the way in. in most cases it is necessary to insert the torque converter a ways, and then have to turn it a little to get it to slide all the way back.
In other words you can almost count on it not sliding all the way into the transmission in one movement - you should need to rotate it some as it goes in (either direction it doesn't matter).
SOMEBODY please speak up if I'm off base here !!
(I am about 98% sure of this *in your application*on my own, but I am not certain - honestly)
HTH.
Back out the trans until you can access thr front of it *easily* and slide the torque converter all the way in. in most cases it is necessary to insert the torque converter a ways, and then have to turn it a little to get it to slide all the way back.
In other words you can almost count on it not sliding all the way into the transmission in one movement - you should need to rotate it some as it goes in (either direction it doesn't matter).
SOMEBODY please speak up if I'm off base here !!
(I am about 98% sure of this *in your application*on my own, but I am not certain - honestly)
HTH.
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You are exactly right about making sure the torque converter goes all the way in the transmission. Unfortunatly I have already made sure it's in all the way. I'm hoping the crankshaft, which I did replace, is the right one. Everything fit right when I rebuilt it and it did run fine for a few seconds when I cranked it (with the engine to transmission bolts loosened). I do wonder though if the rear of the crankshaft where the flexplate is bolted, may be slightly different than the other. I was not able to compare cranks when I got the new on. But I did get the crankshaft from a reputable buisness.